Here is what $5000 buys you.

[Kern Dog]

I tried to install the camshaft last week but found that there were 7 lobes that had unmachined edges on them. Since the lifters ride off center of the lobes, if I didn't see these mistakes, the cam would have chewed up 7 lifters and sent metal shavings throughout the engine.
See the pictures. You will see shreds of the towel that I used to clean off the assembly lube. This is poor workmanship and sloppy quality control. How do I even know that each lobe is the right lift and duration if they can't get this right?

[Kern Dog]

This is a Comp Cam 270/470 Flat tappet hydraulic.
I posted this around the web forums and have learned than many others have had trouble with Comp Cams products. In 2006, I wiped out 2 Comp XE285HL cams back to back. I blamed the drop in zinc in the oil because I followed the assembly and break in procedures as directed.
Now, I am soured on this company. This cam is going back.

[hemi-hampton]

bummer.

[ACUDANUT]

I bet Mucini does not sell that crap.

[Kern Dog]

Stepping back a bit, I decided to go back to working on the wiring. Remember, when I got the car, there was no wiring on the engine side, just the bulkhead plug with 2 melted terminals. This is a common thing when the ammeter fails or the wiring to it gets too hot. I planned on replacing the ammeter with a voltmeter at some point.

I talked with Shannon at Redline Gauge Works. He confirmed what I thought....NOBODY makes a "drop-in" Voltmeter gauge for the 68-70 Rallye cluster. They do conversions though, taking the ammeter and converting it and the cluster housing to allow the entire assembly to bolt in like stock. He also stated that in most instances, the ammeter is perfectly reliable. It is the addition of higher amp alternators and accessories with high current draw that cause trouble with ammeters.
I converted my red car, the '75 Power Wagon and a '72 Duster to avoid the potential future problems even though those cars don't have big stereos, electric fans or any crazy electrical toys.
This car shows no evidence of a big stereo. It had a 383 2 barrel with single exhaust so I can't imagine it had electric fans but the bulkhead plug is damaged and the ammeter was mangled with the wires bypassed . Something went wrong way back when.

[Mike DC]

             

http://www.dodgecharger.com/forum/index.php/topic,108698.0.html

I take it you've seen the DIY voltmeter thread.  The result seemed really nice. 

[Kern Dog]

I didn't know about that thread. I'll read it all later today. Thank you very much!

[Kern Dog]

Yesterday I returned the camshaft and bought some other stuff..... A Milodon water pump, Taylor spark plug wires, an MSD Blaster 2 coil and a socket that fits over the crank snout to rotate the crank.
The clerks at the counter were all amazed at the crappy machine work of the cam.
I called Racer Brown earlier in the week. Jim is going to make a custom grind, something a bit bigger than the 383/440 Magnum cam but a bit milder than the MP 280/474.

[Kern Dog]

I'm back working on the wiring.
The bulkhead plug was the first job. I pulled and cleaned every terminal end then stuffed them in the replacement plug, one by one.

[Kern Dog]

I used the factory service manual to map out and identify the wires and plugs. It was not as complete as I would expect because there are wires in the harness that are not mentioned in the FSM. Two of them are for the blower motor that ...on A/C cars, is on the engine side of the firewall. The wires are from terminals A and B. Neither are shown on the wire diagram. There are wires and plugs that are 18 gauge, yellow and a couple red ones that look original but are also not on the diagram. I may have to unwrap more of the black tape to see where they go just to satisfy my curiosity. 

[Kern Dog]

My red '70 had a 6 fuse fusebox and so did this one. I had a couple of 7 fuse units so both cars will have them.
I put the 7 fuse unit in Evaporust overnight and it came out pretty nice. Some previous owner tried some wiring work and had stuff connected wrong.
There is a supply side of the panel and then the fused side. It is a bad idea to connect to the supply side for the various power needs because if there is ever a problem, there is no fuse to protect the wiring.
Using the wire diagram, I placed all the wires where they are supposed to be. Some wires were replaced due to small burns or  cracks.

[Kern Dog]

I am actually going to connect the wires to the ammeter. This gauge cluster was in Ginger, my red car and the ammeter and wiring in that car were in great shape. I don't have a stereo, electric fans, power seats or windows, just the lights, gauges and heater/defroster.
The ammeter wires were extended a bit so I will be able to attach the wires and secure them easier. Given how delicate the pins are on the instrument cluster, I'm going to do the same there.

[Kern Dog]

The wiring repairs are done. I made some tach wires since this car didn't have one originally. I fumbled through the service manual trying to find a schematic for the heater and defroster wiring but I found nothing. I figured it out. There is a 14 gauge wire, black with white stripe that powers up the blower motor for either the heater/defroster system or the heater and A/C. Both arrangements have their own small harness that is NOT shown in the wire diagrams or on the heater/A/C section of the manual that I have.
Regardless....
I have the bulkhead plug back in, the fuse box mounted and the instrument cluster wiring ready to click into place. I replaced the stock 6 unit fuse box with a 7 unit version.
Now I can put a battery in the car and use jumper wires to power up the interior to test the lights, turn signals, horn, gas gauge and using a drill, I can check the speedometer too!

[Kern Dog]

It isn't stock, but I like the look of the painted pebble grain dash trim panels. I painted the ones for the instrument panel and above the glovebox but I don't have one for the center where the radio will be. I might make a factory appearing delete plate.

[BSB67]

 

Wow KD, that's way way more than I would bite off.  Kudos to you!

[Kern Dog]

Thank you.
I have seen guys post up their builds with extensive metalwork is required and it amazes me to see the car actually fit back together. The quarters and floor pans rotted off, roof reskinned, etc. To me, this is a big project but compared to others, this is maybe middle of the pack in terms of difficulty.
I paid $5000 for the car.
I have about $7500-8000 total into the car now.
I am using a LOT of good, used parts that I either already had or will have.
Front brakes are a combination of used rotors I already had, calipers from a Pick-N-Pull yard, used disc knuckles, NEW lower ball joints and new bushings that I had saved. The rear brakes are straight from a late 80s Chrysler at Pick-N-Pull. The wheels and tires are just temporary.
I did buy a new gas tank but am using a new sender that a friend gave me. There is a new AMD trunk floor and new fuel and vent lines.
So far, the money is in the engine since I am rebuilding it. New rings, bearings, pistons, gaskets, oil pump, water pump ,camshaft and lifters,  distributor, alternator, thermostat and fluids. The trans is used but the factory high-stall converter was inspected by a shop. I have good used 1 7/8" headers and NEW Flowmasters in boxes. I'll have to have the exhaust pipes bent and installed.
For the interior, I still have the original front seats from my red car. The wiring work I'm doing now has cost about $40 in wire terminals, wire and shrink wrap.

[Kern Dog]

After I posted about the camshaft problem, a VP from Comp Cams sent me a PM through another forum. He apologized and offered to "make it right".
I responded, thanking him for the offer and telling him that I appreciated a direct response with the apology. I went on to mention that I understood that stuff happens and that I'm just happy that I caught it before it made things worse. I also told him that it was not my intention to solicit free stuff so I will just let it go.

I put out the feelers for alternatives for a camshaft.

I called Racer Brown. The guy that answered sounds like a real old school cam dude. He seemed to be pretty knowledgeable but when I mentioned my concern about breaking in the cam and the risk of lifter quality and failures, he spoke as if he had never heard of it. That did not inspire confidence.
I get nervous every time I start up an engine with a new cam and lifters.
A guy at FBBO had a used Mopar Performance 280-474 cam with the lifters saved in order. I made a deal and they are in transit right now. This will alleviate some of the anxiety of a first fire once I finally get to that point.

[Kern Dog]

The wiring is mostly done. The gauge panel is back in.

[Kern Dog]

The car is an original A/C model but I am going to use a heater & defoster. I changed the firewall to allow a stock heater box to fit. I'm leaving the dash alone though. These A/C vents will stay because maybe someday I'll change to an aftermarket A/C system.
The center dash panel was missing from the car when I got it. Lucky for me, a 1970 Charger Registry forum member came though with this panel.

[Kern Dog]

I am going to make some sort of dummy radio delete plate.
I have a glove box door but no liner. I hope to get one next weekend at the show and swap in Irwindale.
With the wiring inside pretty much sorted out, I ran the three sections on the engine side. The top plug is for the wiper motor and neutral safety switch but since I don't have a decent 3 speed wiper motor, I just installed the plug with 2 wires in it. The middle plug is for engine related stuff...Alternator charge wire, voltage regulator, ballast resistor, oil pressure, water temp, coil and in my case, electronic ignition. The bottom plug is for the lighting.

[Kern Dog]

I have headlights! The left side has no lamps in place yet.

[Kern Dog]

Taillights too....Sort of.
The center bulbs work but the outers don't. The sockets are cruddy so I'll need to solder in new ones.
I get no dash lights. The high beam indicator does come on but the dash stays dark. The bulbs looked good. The plug for the dimmer switch looked a bit dirty so I wonder if a good cleaning would help.

[70 sublime]

Taillights too....Sort of.
The center bulbs work but the outers don't. The sockets are cruddy so I'll need to solder in new ones.
I get no dash lights. The high beam indicator does come on but the dash stays dark. The bulbs looked good. The plug for the dimmer switch looked a bit dirty so I wonder if a good cleaning would help.

Roll the dimmer switch up and down a couple times with the lights on to see if the dash lights come on

Have you got enough lights hooked up yet to see if the dome light comes on if you roll the dimmer all the way to the top ?

[Kern Dog]

The dimmer moves freely but has very little resistance to movement. I can't feel a detent where the dome would come on and where the dash lights are the brightest.

[timmycharger]

Looking good, great thread.  What are your plans for the firewall paint? Assuming everything is just mocked up for a test?