Here is what $5000 buys you.

[darbgnik]

I measured and then welded on the gas tank strap brackets.

Ahh, forgot those go on the trunk pan!

This thing is really coming together.

[Kern Dog]

Thanks!
Those got spot welded originally but I plug welded mine along with a bead on the upper corners.

[Kern Dog]

This is the tool that I used to make the holes at the front and the rear. It also can be used to make a recess flange if you wanted to do a lap weld instead of a butt weld.

[Kern Dog]

Flange:

[Kern Dog]

I took the drain plugs out of the bottoms of the lower quarters and blew some compressed air to get all the trapped dust and grit out. I rinsed the floor and blew it dry. Tomorrow I intend to spread the seam sealer and spray etching primer on the bare metal areas.

[darbgnik]

Amazing to only have to replace that center section of the trunk.

Mine did not look like that!

[Kern Dog]

It was worse than my other car but obviously far better than an East coast or Northern car.  The trunk extensions/dropoffs are fine, just a little surface rust.
There is a small rust hole in the right lower quarter but the rest of the car is solid.

[Kern Dog]

Still waiting on both the gas tank and the Machinist with my 383. In the meantime, I'm having some trouble deciding on what I want to do.
I am trying to piece together a wire harness for the engine side. I have the original headlight harness from the red car. It worked but I replaced it because I had modified it a bit and didn't like how it turned out. I have since repaired it and am sure it will work. I could buy a new one. Evans Wiring has the center plug section for $110. This may be a way to go, I'm just not sure yet.
The bulkhead has three connectors with 8 terminals each. The top one is mostly windshield wiper and neutral safety wires. The car has a 3 speed switch in the dash but I am thinking of swapping that to the red car. The middle plug has the oil pressure, water temp, voltage regulator and power in-power out. That segment that I have is from a 73-75 A-body with electronic ignition. It would probably work but I don't know for sure. Starting a new or rebuilt engine is crucial. It has to start and run right away. I can't go cranking and cranking on it or the cam will get wiped out.
I could mock up a distributor with all the wiring harness in place to see if it gets spark with the ignition on.
I may use the red car as a test dummy to see what gets power when. I'm not as clear in my thinking with wiring paths and functions as I wish I were.

[hemi-hampton]

This is the tool that I used to make the holes at the front and the rear. It also can be used to make a recess flange if you wanted to do a lap weld instead of a butt weld.

I use my panel flanger /hole punch all the time. but some people don't like the tool & refuse to use it. I like it. all just a matter of opinion. LEON.

[Kern Dog]

Some areas I prefer lap joints. The flanger helps with those.

[Cooter]

SOLD MY 70 TO 69 General Lee FOR $16,500. 3 years ago. dude was glad to get it.

[Kern Dog]

Today I dropped off a 26" radiator to get boiled out and inspected. I also took 2 11" torque converters in for inspection. I have a few BB 727s to use. I don't know if they work. I soldered a couple wires on a 3 speed wiper motor that I had. I don't know if it works or not but the car has a 3 speed switch in the dash. I am probably going to keep the 3 speed stuff to use in my red car and let this one have the 2 speed setup.
I am thinking that even though my red car has a trunk mounted battery, I will get this one running with a stock type arrangement. I will still probably bypass the ammeter though.

[Kern Dog]

The rear window channel had rust but it was cut out and patched with new metal. I sprayed metal etch primer awhile ago but recently smoothed it all over with thin coats of Rage Gold filler. I used the trim as a template since some of the welding resulted in some uneven areas. I wish that I was a master at welding where I could simply prime and paint over my metalwork. It would be nice to improve my skills there.

[Kern Dog]

More.

[Bad B-rad]

Nice work, KD!!!
I have a few small rust holes in middle of the  trunk, and planed on sectioning in part of the trunk, similar to what you have done!

[tan top]

I took the drain plugs out of the bottoms of the lower quarters and blew some compressed air to get all the trapped dust and grit out. I rinsed the floor and blew it dry. Tomorrow I intend to spread the seam sealer and spray etching primer on the bare metal areas.

looks good  KD  

[Kern Dog]

Thank you, Gentlemen!

[nvrbdn]

Really enjoying this thread!!! Thanks for taking the time to share. 

[Kern Dog]

You are welcome. I am glad to do it.
Pictures really help too, right? I know that when I see a car build topic posted, the pictures help me understand what is going on.

[nvrbdn]

Exactly!! Pictures are a great learning tool. The more, the better!!! Plus as people see how you are moving through each part of the project, they realize that they can accomplish this also. So it is a great motivational tool.

[Kern Dog]

I know that sometimes it looks like I am jumping around and not sticking to one task.
That is because I am. I don't have the engine back yet so I am playing with other things.

Strange thing that I noticed a couple of days ago.....
I don't know if this is stock, but this car came with a hood from another car. Maybe it was an XH model as well. Instead of hood turn signals, it had small steel block off plates. Well, actually just one plate. The right side has nothing. I am currently looking for a pair of proper lenses and the wiring.

[VegasCharger]

.....I am currently looking for a pair of proper lenses and the wiring.....

Do you need the other lens housing?

[Kern Dog]

I have housing. I need the lenses and the wiring.

[Kern Dog]

Among the other things that I have planned for the car, I am contemplating a change to the firewall. To me, the stock A/C firewall looks really busy. MY red car is also factory A/C and I changed it to a Classic Auto Air system. They include these black painted block off plates to cover the various holes. I'm not real fond of how that came out but I wasn't ready to pull the engine and interior to change the firewall.
With this car at such a stripped down condition, I can make changes now and not disrupt anything. If I ever decided to add A/C to this car, I'd go with another CAA kit. For the meantime, I am thinking of using a stock heater/defroster.
The tentative plan is to cut out the right side of the stock firewall while leaving a 3/4" section below the cowl pinch weld, along the fender apron support and the lower edge where the firewall meets the floor pan. I'll probably butt weld down the center.

I've heard some suggestions that it would be easier to just make patches for all the holes and fill them in. My problem with that is there are a lot of odd shapes and sizes and if/when I do the Classic Auto Air system, I don't want to risk cutting through a welded edge if the HVAC unit requires it since welds are often harder to cleanly drill or cut through.

[tan top]

Among the other things that I have planned for the car, I am contemplating a change to the firewall. To me, the stock A/C firewall looks really busy. MY red car is also factory A/C and I changed it to a Classic Auto Air system. They include these black painted block off plates to cover the various holes. I'm not real fond of how that came out but I wasn't ready to pull the engine and interior to change the firewall.
With this car at such a stripped down condition, I can make changes now and not disrupt anything. If I ever decided to add A/C to this car, I'd go with another CAA kit. For the meantime, I am thinking of using a stock heater/defroster.
The tentative plan is to cut out the right side of the stock firewall while leaving a 3/4" section below the cowl pinch weld, along the fender apron support and the lower edge where the firewall meets the floor pan. I'll probably butt weld down the center.

I've heard some suggestions that it would be easier to just make patches for all the holes and fill them in. My problem with that is there are a lot of odd shapes and sizes and if/when I do the Classic Auto Air system, I don't want to risk cutting through a welded edge if the HVAC unit requires it since welds are often harder to cleanly drill or cut through.

sounds like the best plan !  think you got  the right idea ! weld part of the none AC firewall in now , while its only a few more hours stripping out behind the dash etc. will make a better job !  kind of wish i would of changed to a none AC firewall when i had mine stripped to empty body shell ,
we just been talking about this very subject here blocking AC holes in fire wall in the link below
 http://www.dodgecharger.com/forum/index.php/topic,138062.0.html