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stalling

Started by cobradriver, May 13, 2006, 06:23:40 PM

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cobradriver

ok this is weird....or maybe not weird...but my charger is acting weird.....starts no problems...but once i put it gear stalls....like it either floods out of not enough fuel....im not good with a holly carb so i really dont know what im looking at when checking floats etc etc...only thing i cando its idlel mixture, and idle speed...what should i be looking for first to see if my carb need to be tossed in the river....and anyone have a good suggestion for a carb for a 383 with a 727 tf?....

71440charger

check tosee if the port on the intake is pluged i had the same probone time there will be a hole in it and when you put it into gear it dies and that hole sucks in a bunch of air. or that hole goes to a vac. advance.
The Killer Cam

cobradriver

port on the intake?...ok...im not sure where im looking...i do have an edelbrock intake...are you saying that little vacum tree at the back?....

JB94

Quote from: cobradriver on May 13, 2006, 06:23:40 PM
ok this is weird....or maybe not weird...but my charger is acting weird.....starts no problems...but once i put it gear stalls....like it either floods out of not enough fuel....im not good with a holly carb so i really dont know what im looking at when checking floats etc etc...only thing i cando its idlel mixture, and idle speed...what should i be looking for first to see if my carb need to be tossed in the river....and anyone have a good suggestion for a carb for a 383 with a 727 tf?....
Need a little more information.
What carb are you using?Size-double pumper or vac secondaries-center or side hung floats.
What is the idle speed in neutral or park?
Is the idle stable or rough in neutral?   

71440charger

Quote from: cobradriver on May 13, 2006, 09:42:53 PM
port on the intake?...ok...im not sure where im looking...i do have an edelbrock intake...are you saying that little vacum tree at the back?....
yes in the back right under the carb put your finger back there and there will be a hole
The Killer Cam

cobradriver

its aholly 750...vacuum seconds,   i believe its a 8150 mod?...manual choke....it has a hard time staying running at first...have to keep restarting...idle is around 800 right now anything lower it will stall out...i did the spraying carb cleaner around the intake and carb to see if the idle changes...but it didnt....my vacum advance on the distrib looks rough but sodoesnt the distrib....lol i guess i need to buy the schematic manuals for these cars...i have them for a 69 mach 1, but little good it does for me now...lol...on a 383 how much vac should it be drawing at idle...i have a guage, but dont know any of the specifics on these cars yet....

deputycrawford

if you have a stock cammed 383, you should have between 18" to 20" at idle. It does sound like a vacum leak. My last one was the carb itself. I tightened the carb down and it cleared up. check for vacum leaks everywhere. It is most likely not your carb.
If it ain't wide open; it ain't running.        Rule number one in motocross racing: Pin it; row the gear box; and wait until you hit something.     At work my motto is: If you need me, call someone else.

cobradriver

motor is stock...never been rebuilt....with 63K on her....i will check the vacum this afternoon...

deputycrawford

Check it at idle. Then rev it slightly and see if the vacum jumps around or raises and holds steady. It will drop as you open the throttle blades but should recover immediately afterward. While reved, wiggle the vacum hoses and things to see if anything changes. Then just put a slight turn on the carb mounting bolts. You'll get it. Take your time. The more you figure out on this car, the more confidence you'll have every time you open the hood. Im going to change my own cam in my car in a couple of weeks and I don't even have a second thought about doing it.
If it ain't wide open; it ain't running.        Rule number one in motocross racing: Pin it; row the gear box; and wait until you hit something.     At work my motto is: If you need me, call someone else.

cobradriver

ok when i put the vacum gauge on im getting basicaly 0.....now my question is i have the gauge going between the carb and the vac advance....is this the correct way of using the va gauge?...i reved the motor and it did raise slightly and but never went above 8.....

JB94

I would check a few basic things on the carb first.
1.Remove the primary(front)fuel bowl and metering block.
2.Remove the power valve from the metering block and make sure the diaphragm in it is not ruptured.
3.Remove the inlet needle and make sure there is no trash in it.
4.To do the initial fuel level setting, invert the bowl and turn the adjustment screw until the top of the float is roughly parrallel with the bowl top.   
    Reassemble the carb .then fine tune the fuel level setting with the engine idleing so that it is just below the threads in the
   sight plug hole.( If you have not done this before,don't go nuts loosening the adjustment screw on top of the bowls , you will get some fuel seepage.
5.One last note;If the carb has not been apart for a while get some new gaskets for the metering block and fuel bowl before you start.They will tear if
   they are the old cork style.
    Hope this helps.

Chryco Psycho

Quote from: cobradriver on May 14, 2006, 03:31:23 PM
ok when i put the vacum gauge on im getting basicaly 0.....now my question is i have the gauge going between the carb and the vac advance....is this the correct way of using the va gauge?...i reved the motor and it did raise slightly and but never went above 8.....
where were you connected , sounds like you have it connected to the ported vacuum for the dist that increases with RPM Not manifold vacuum that decreases with RPM

cobradriver

where exactly should i have the vacuum gauge  hooked up to...i had it running between the carb and the vacuum advance...

deputycrawford

Like Chryco said, you should have two vacum ports on the carb. One for the distributor that is ported. That means it only starts to give vacum when reved up. The other is constant vacum. While the engine is running, pull the cap off the other vacum port. The engine idle should speed up slightly. That is the constant vacum, plug the guage in there.
If it ain't wide open; it ain't running.        Rule number one in motocross racing: Pin it; row the gear box; and wait until you hit something.     At work my motto is: If you need me, call someone else.

mikepmcs

 :popcrn:

i'm having vacuum issues too i think.  i'm reading between 4-6" at idle and that is when the gauge is hooked to the tee at the rear of the mani.  i've disconnected and plugged all the ports in the tree one at a time(brake booster, headlight vac, etc...) with little or no change.  rev the motor and get 16 continuous at around 2 grand but idle is flux between 4-6".

oh yeah cam is mopar purp 484/484.
Life isn't Father Knows Best anymore, it's a kick in the face on a saturday night with a steel toed grip kodiak work boot and a trip to the hospital all bloodied and bashed.....for reconstructive surgery. But, what doesn't kill us, makes us stronger, right?

mikepmcs

Quote from: cobradriver on May 13, 2006, 06:23:40 PM
ok this is weird....or maybe not weird...but my charger is acting weird.....starts no problems...but once i put it gear stalls....like it either floods out of not enough fuel....im not good with a holly carb so i really dont know what im looking at when checking floats etc etc...only thing i cando its idlel mixture, and idle speed...what should i be looking for first to see if my carb need to be tossed in the river....and anyone have a good suggestion for a carb for a 383 with a 727 tf?....

this reminds me of another thread that had something to do with a choke issue? then a new carb looks to have finally fixed the problem all together.
here's a couple i found might be of interest:
http://www.dodgecharger.com/forum/index.php/topic,12583.0.html
http://www.dodgecharger.com/forum/index.php/topic,13049.0.html

Life isn't Father Knows Best anymore, it's a kick in the face on a saturday night with a steel toed grip kodiak work boot and a trip to the hospital all bloodied and bashed.....for reconstructive surgery. But, what doesn't kill us, makes us stronger, right?

cobradriver

ok update...replaced some what i thought were questionable vacuum lines, and the good news is im running 15-16 at idle for vacuum.   but im overheating....but i htink thats a rad issue...which i have a new one on the way plus new thermostat.   but im still getting backfiring through the carb and i was looking for the timming pointer cant find it....am i missing something?...lol....what side of the motor is the timing pointer supposed to be at?...and im going to assume counter clockwise retards timing and clockwise advances?...

dodge freak

Take your cap off the dist. and look at the rotor then bump the motor with the starter and look at the rotor again to see which way it moved. Now if you turn the dist. the same way that is retarding the timing and the other way is advancing. This works on every motor so you do not have to look it up. Ron had a good post on setting timing with vacuum advance not hook up, rev the motor up till all the advance is in then advance the timing till the engine stops getting faster or slows down and back it off a little. I do it this way too and then look with a timing light and it is right on. You might want to cover you ears when you do this , I use some ear muffs made for gun shooting.

deputycrawford

The timing pointer is on the passenger side under the water pump.
If it ain't wide open; it ain't running.        Rule number one in motocross racing: Pin it; row the gear box; and wait until you hit something.     At work my motto is: If you need me, call someone else.

Chryco Psycho

if ti is overheating advance the timin g, it should make the engine run cooler