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Installing Dynamat insulation on Floor

Started by john108, August 06, 2019, 11:45:38 PM

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john108

When Installing the Dynamat insulation on the floor:
1.  How do you deal with all the convolutions?

2.  Do you just bond to the high surfaces?

3.  Where do you start?

Thank You, John

funknut

Dynamat is butyl rubber so it will contour to the floor.  You will need some wooden or hard rubber rollers to push it into the grooves.  Most I've seen and used are 2" but you may want some narrower ones to really get in those indentations.

For a surface with a lot of contours like your pic I would start rolling from the center of the piece outward.  You can cut it into whatever sized pieces you want if it will make it easier to apply.

There are lots of opinions on how to apply Dynamat.  Some people cover every inch of surface with it, others will say you only need 30% coverage for it to work.

Products like dynamat are used for their anti-resonance properties (reduces the ability for large sheet metal sections to "ring" with vibration) and they are not designed to be a complete soundproofing solution by themselves.

This site has great information on soundproofing and which products do what:

https://www.sounddeadenershowdown.com/

303 Mopar

I have used fatmat.com on a couple of cars and found it to be as good as dynomat for less money.  I ordered the kit with pre-cut sheets instead of one big roll which helps speed up the installation since you are not constantly measuring and cutting. Their kit includes a knife and roller to help. 

I would recommend starting at the firewall and working your way back. I would also highly recommend doing the door skin and inner panel if you can. This really helped with the solidness of the doors.
1968 Charger - 1970 Cuda - 1969 Sport Satellite Convertible

john108

Thank You
The hardware stores here do not carry rollers unless you are painting.
I plan on going to Hobby Lobby as they told me they carry them.
Then I will jump into it,  Well maybe just walk slow.
John

funknut

Good luck, once you get started I'm sure you'll figure it out quickly.  It's not a complicated process, but can be very time consuming if you try and cover every square inch.  I'm in the camp that doesn't feel the need to cover everything.

I definitely agree with doing the doors.  I do the door skin and any large sections of inner structure. Even if you don't have the quarter window regulators out, it's absolutely worth cutting some small pieces and applying them where you can reach.

70 sublime

Does this stuff sticky and glue down or just soft and mold around all the bumps ?

Just wondering if say a year later want to put different front seats in and need to pull up to sort out some new holes in the floor
next project 70 Charger FJ5 green

gtx6970

Once its down and rolled in place. Getting it back up will be extremely tough,,,aka tough enough you will think its  impossible

66FBCharger

Does either Dynomat or Fat Mat cut down on heat transferred to the passenger compartment or is it primarily for cutting down on sound?
If not, what would be a good product to insulate the passenger compartment from heat?
'69 Charger R/T 440 4 speed T5, '70 Road Runner 440+6 4 speed, '73 'Cuda 340 4 speed, '66 Charger 383 Auto
SOLD!:'69 Charger R/T S.E. 440 4 speed 3.54 Dana rolling body

TexasStroker

I believe any of it will help with insulation, but they usually offer different lines targeted for different objectives.  If heat i the main goal, check this out:
http://www.dynamat.com/automotive-and-transportation/automotive-restoration/dynaliner/

I have only installed this stuff for audio reasons...really helps with any door speakers and in the rear deck.
Founder, Amarillo Area Mopars
www.amarilloareamopars.com
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www.lonestarmopars.com
Will set-up a regional Charger meet
Contact me for info!

Kern Dog

Quote from: gtx6970 on August 14, 2019, 05:40:31 PM
Once its down and rolled in place. Getting it back up will be extremely tough,,,aka tough enough you will think its  impossible

Just a guess but what if you put ice packs on it? Would that harden it up enough to peel up easier?
I just thought of that.
I plan to do a 727 to 5 speed conversion in the future and will likely pull the floor shifter brackets to use in another car. I used some of this sticky rubber & foil backed stuff in my car, Mine was Fat Mat or something similar.
I cut strips to go on the quarter skins, inside the doors, to the pinch weld of the firewall, just rearward of the lower cushion of the back seat....It did help with sound. I've never had a problem with heat inside though.
I'm doing an A/C install so once the stock HVAC box comes out, I may still wrap the back side of the firewall with more of this stuff. New cars have so much sound deadening and they are real quiet. While I like to hear the engine, I also understand that for a distance cruiser, the roar of the road wears you out from the ears to the toes.

funknut

Dynamat will help control heat but poorly when compared to an actual thermal barrier/insulation.

There are products and solutions for every problem: heat, resonance, vibration, etc. you just need to define the problem you want to solve and get the right products.

70 sublime

Is there any of this floor mat stuff that is good for keeping heat and noise out ??
next project 70 Charger FJ5 green

gtx6970

Ive used a product rattle trap from a company called fatmat in several cars.
It helps so much, for both heat and noise control.  I'll add it to any car I own

Alaskan_TA

Best way to help with noise inside the car is quieter mufflers.