Who's using the newer high output ALT. available today?

[Pete in NH]

MarCath,

1- There's a thread here in the electrical section on a very nice voltmeter  conversion by a fellow member "Dino". I believe it uses a small voltmeter made by "Sunpro". I'm sure if you do a search you will find it. With a little work it looks like a factory stock gauge and fits in the original ammeter location.

2- I would remove the original ammeter as it no longer serves its original purpose and doesn't give you any useful information. Also, if the original mounting insulators fail, and they can, you have a potential fire hazard. If you follow the black wire from the ammeter it will lead to a welded connection Chrysler calls a "splice joint" this is the point you want to connect through your new 8 gauge wire and 50 amp fuse to the battery positive terminal. There is a "fuseable link" wire from the battery stud on the starter relay that goes into the bulk head connector and then on to the positive side of the ammeter, you want to remove both the link and bulk head wire to the ammeter. Your new 8 gauge wire should go through a new rubber grommet in the fire wall and connect to the splice joint location. This modification totally removed the ammeter and problematic bulk head connector pins. This change also addresses your third question. I use a 50 amp Maxi-Fuse for this application which is a modern fuse type available almost anywhere . NAPA has a very nice Maxi-Fuse holder made by Belden, its a little pricey but its a quality part.

Cars are a hobby for me and I've been around these old Mopars since they were new on the show room floor. That should tell you I don't fit under a dashboard as well as I once did. I'll be happy to help you in any way I can but have to leave the actual work to you.


Kern  Dog, I've read you post several times and I'm not sure I understand how the battery ever gets charged except when the solenoid is energized. So, can you tell me where the alternator output stud is connected now?

[Kern Dog]

Sorry. I was tired and ready for bed and forgot a few things.
The alternator wire was replaced with an 8ga wire ran to the starter relay with a fusible link at the relay.  I Then used another fusible link attached to an 8ga wire through the bulkhead, (Through a drilled hole, no bulkhead spade connector) This connects to the "welded splice" that consists of the fuse panel positive, the headlight switch and the ignition switch. In other words, I eliminated the ammeter and powered up the interior using a continuous 8 gauge wire from the starter relay.

[Marcath1965]

Thanks Pete, I really appreciate your and everyone else's advice. I bought this car to replace the one I bought when I got back from Vietnam a million years ago, Different car,VIN, but identical to the first one otherwise. Somehow that first one turned into a station wagon, not sure how, oh yeah, now I remember, my wife wanted the wagon and I regretted it ever since, so bought this one in TX a few years ago. It had a lot of warts covered over by a slick seller and I have been chasing fixes ever since. The good news was that it had everything that it came with and all numbers matched. I'm just about finished, with the exception of rebuilding the A/C and fixing the wiring mess. I drive it pretty much all summer as a driver and it looks like showroom. Nothing like the old stuff to make you feel young and help you remember when.

[Kern Dog]

My name is not Pete.

[Marcath1965]

Ooops! Sorry, I must have pushed the wrong reply button.