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DammIT!!!! God Forsaken torsion bars!UPDATED..FINISHED!!

Started by Telvis, May 13, 2006, 03:06:21 PM

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Telvis

May 13, 2006, 03:06:21 PM
I went to start my fron end rebuild today. I can't get the adjusting screw to turn to take the load off the torsion bar. I have tried everything. It seemed to turn a few revolutions but won't budge. So much for getting my front end rebuilt this weekend. I may have to swap out everything but the lower control arm bushings. I have tried for four hours that dang bolt wont turn. Any suggestions?

Dodge Don

#1
May 13, 2006, 03:08:39 PM
Put a propane torch to it...get her glowing. Should break free after that.

Telvis

#2
May 13, 2006, 05:07:29 PM
Well....tried the torch..no good. It still won't budge. I felt like crap this morning and debated if I should even start this project today. I am done for the day. I will try again in the morning. I should have known better than to think this would go smoothly.  :flame:

mikepmcs

#3
May 13, 2006, 05:11:11 PM
PB BLAST IT AND LET IT SET BEFORE YOU GO TO BED TONIGHT.  PB BLAST!
NO OTHER SUBSTITUTE.
good luck
v/r
mike
Life isn't Father Knows Best anymore, it's a kick in the face on a saturday night with a steel toed grip kodiak work boot and a trip to the hospital all bloodied and bashed.....for reconstructive surgery. But, what doesn't kill us, makes us stronger, right?

Telvis

#4
May 13, 2006, 06:13:56 PM
Okay, I just got back fro Auto zone. I just doused the bolts with PB Blast. man that stuff stinks! I sure hope it works.

Dodge Don

#5
May 13, 2006, 06:48:09 PM
Just a thought.....you sure you are turning the bolts the right way?

Telvis

#6
May 13, 2006, 06:50:30 PM
Counter clockwise.

Mike DC

#7
May 13, 2006, 07:31:32 PM
 
And the frame is off the ground so that the front suspension is fully hanging?  That seems to help somewhat.

----------------------------------------------------------------------

The basic problem is that the exposed threads of the adjuster bolt are probably rusted.  You could turn the bolt a few twists okay, but then those rusted threads of the bolt started entering into the threaded block and made it a heck of a lot harder.

   

71440charger

#8
May 13, 2006, 07:33:56 PM
Quote from: Mike DC (formerly miked) on May 13, 2006, 07:31:32 PM

And the frame is off the ground so that the front suspension is fully hanging? That seems to help somewhat.

----------------------------------------------------------------------

The basic problem is that the exposed threads of the adjuster bolt are probably rusted. You could turn the bolt a few twists okay, but then those rusted threads of the bolt started entering into the threaded block and made it a heck of a lot harder.



that ishow i got mine to turn
The Killer Cam

Telvis

#9
May 13, 2006, 08:31:36 PM
The front suspension is hanging. I have the car sitting on jack stands on the frame. I just went out and sprayed the threads again. Hopefully that will do it.

BlueSS454

#10
May 14, 2006, 07:46:04 AM
I used a 1/2" impact gun on mine, they came right out.  Getting the bars themselves out, that was another story, they didn't wat to budge out of K frame.
Tom Rightler

Telvis

#11
May 14, 2006, 05:23:58 PM
I have tried the impact gun. That didn't work. Those darn bolt absolutely won't budge. I decided to go ahead and replace everything gut the lower control arm bushings. I have the drivers side finished including the disc brake swap. I will take some pictures when it's all done.

clausoe

#12
May 15, 2006, 04:54:35 PM
Quote from: BlueSS454 on May 14, 2006, 07:46:04 AM
I used a 1/2" impact gun on mine, they came right out.  Getting the bars themselves out, that was another story, they didn't wat to budge out of K frame.

How do you know how far to tighten them if you use an impact gun to get them loose? I always count the revolutions when loosening so it's easier to get them back to where they were and same ride height.

Mike DC

#13
May 15, 2006, 06:57:45 PM
 
There's a factory-specified setting in the manual.  It basically tells you to measure the difference in heights between the inner & outer ends of the lower control arms on each side, and it gives a "correct" height to work from. 

Most car enthusiasts like the front end a bit lower than stock, though.

 

resq302

#14
May 15, 2006, 10:38:19 PM
Just did this yesterday on my car.  You measure the distance from the ground to the bottom part of the lower ball joint next to the grease fitting.  Then you measure from the ground to the pivot point sleeve where the lower control arm connects to the torsion bar.  For a b-body, spec says it should be 1 1/2" (+/- 1/8") difference between the two measurements.  Also, the distance for your lower rebound bumper should be at least 1" clearance.

Hope this helps.

Brian
Brian
1969 Dodge Charger (factory 4 speed, H code 383 engine,  AACA Senior winner, 2008 Concours d'Elegance participant, 2009 Concours d'Elegance award winner)
1970 Challenger Convert. factory #'s matching red inter. w/ white body.  318 car built 9/28/69 (AACA Senior winner)
1969 Plymough GTX convertible - original sheet metal, #'s matching drivetrain, T3 Honey Bronze, 1 of 701 produced, 1 of 362 with 440 4 bbl - auto

mikepmcs

#15
May 16, 2006, 07:44:15 AM
Quote from: Mike DC (formerly miked) on May 15, 2006, 06:57:45 PM
 
There's a factory-specified setting in the manual.  It basically tells you to measure the difference in heights between the inner & outer ends of the lower control arms on each side, and it gives a "correct" height to work from. 

Most car enthusiasts like the front end a bit lower than stock, though.

 
Quote from: resq302 on May 15, 2006, 10:38:19 PM
Just did this yesterday on my car. You measure the distance from the ground to the bottom part of the lower ball joint next to the grease fitting. Then you measure from the ground to the pivot point sleeve where the lower control arm connects to the torsion bar. For a b-body, spec says it should be 1 1/2" (+/- 1/8") difference between the two measurements. Also, the distance for your lower rebound bumper should be at least 1" clearance.

Hope this helps.

Brian

You guys are awesome! as Van Wilder would say:
'write that down'
thanks
Mike
Life isn't Father Knows Best anymore, it's a kick in the face on a saturday night with a steel toed grip kodiak work boot and a trip to the hospital all bloodied and bashed.....for reconstructive surgery. But, what doesn't kill us, makes us stronger, right?

4402tuff4u

#16
May 16, 2006, 02:24:03 PM
This might be gutsy, but I wonder this........ if you can see where the threads are nice and clean - the distance the bolt moves, cut it there and undo the bolt and replace the bolt. I'm afraid if you continue you might end up damaging the female piece and that will be harder to replace! Yikes!!! :-[
"Mother should I trust the government?........... Pink Floyd "Mother"

BlueSS454

#17
May 17, 2006, 10:11:19 PM
Quote from: clausoe on May 15, 2006, 04:54:35 PM
How do you know how far to tighten them if you use an impact gun to get them loose? I always count the revolutions when loosening so it's easier to get them back to where they were and same ride height.
The front end on my car was already out, apart, and completly out of whack when I bought it anyways so I'll set the ride height after I am done putting it back together by factory specs.
Tom Rightler

Telvis

#18
May 21, 2006, 12:13:40 AM
I have the drivers side rebuilt and the new disc brakes installed. I didn't replace the lower control arm bushings because of  the situation with the torsion bars. I will deal with the lower bushings if the need arises. I'm taking a gamble. Hopefully it will work out. Tomorrow I do the passenger side. It should be fast since I know what to do now.

Telvis

#19
May 21, 2006, 06:31:15 PM
I finally finished the front end rebuild and disc brake conversion today. I had to go buy inner tie rods because they were not included in the rebuild kit i bought. I'm going to install the new brake lines and master cylinder this week. Hopefully i can install the motor next weekend!! I will post some pictures as soon as I can.
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