Steering wheel moves forward and back

[Calif240]

Hey everyone, been dealing with an issue a while and can't seem to dial in to what's wrong. My steering wheel moves in and out (forward and back) by about 1/2". I've read several threads and verified the following:
1) the plastic pins in the inner shaft are good.
2) my upper bearing and snap rings are good and in place
3) I don't have a 3.5" coupler from another mopar

That being said, I know the steering wheel should collapse if hit, but mine moves out after a few minutes of turns and driving, then I push it back in a 1/2". There doesn't seem to be any play except at the coupler.

Am I not tightening part of the column bracket correctly? Should the outer column jacket be push towards the driver as much as possible?

Any advice is appreciated.

Thanks,
Terry

[Calif240]

Btw... 1969 Charger w Console shift....

[b5blue]

No picks but top bearing c clip?   

[gtx6970]

Just the steering wheel or does the upper collar move with it as well?

[Calif240]

Steering wheel and inner shaft will move forward/backward. Outer shaft and main column doesn't move. Basically, the wheel will push out and then the entire outer jacket where the turn signal attaches can "spin", so the turn signal won't engage. I can push wheel back in and feel it, then turn signal is tight, wheel turns great etc.

[Kern Dog]

My '70 has done this for years. I'd be interested in learning  WTF is the problem as well!

[b5blue]

Certain the clip is seated and the bearing retaining plate is screwed down next the housing upper to lower mounting screws? Have someone lift the wheel out of position while you watch the coupler to see if the coupler is what stops it.  (The entire shaft moving.) 

[Calif240]

Upper bearing (under steering wheel) is secured with both snap rings, as well as cover plate. When you say upper to lower mounting screws, what are you referring to?

And yes, entire inner shaft is what is moving. Outer casing stays secured to dash, coupled stays secured to steering pump. inner Shaft just moves toward driver (along w steering wheel and turn signal housing).

[green69rt]

Just thinking back over my column rebuild and the only thing that comes to mind is something with the upper bearing.  The coupling has some play in it and the lower part of the shaft just floats in the lower bearing and there's nothing else that fixes the shaft position other than the upper bearing.  The upper bearing is seated in a rubber sleeve and then inserted in its socket.  It's held in place by the turn switch assembly and fixed to the shaft with the two C clips.  The only things I can think of is that the switch is not holding the bearing, the C-clips are not seated correctly or or the bearing is bad and its inner and outer races separated (unlikely.)  If the column is in the out position, take the wheel off and look at the clip and bearing, watch closely as you push the column back into position and see whats moving? Also look at the coupling end to see if it moves when you do the test.

[krops cars]

You will have to tear down and inspect.

[Calif240]

The inner shaft is secured via the bearing. When the shaft moves forward toward the driver, the steering wheel, inner shaft, and front housing (where turn signal is) all come forward. The back housing (shaped like a bell) and the entire outer column attached to the dash doesn't move. I'll take a picture, as it is all disassembled right now.

[green69rt]

trying to read about your problem again and have one last thought.  There are three ( edit: two )screws/nuts that hold the collar (turn switch screws to it) to the outer tube,  These are a bugger to get seated right.  If they are not then the shaft will move till the coupling or some other part of the column stops it.  Attached is pictures of those screws and their location.

[Calif240]

Wow... that looks like that's it. I don't remember seeing that piece on my column so I'll have to verify that it wasn't removed by previous owner. However, I'm sure that it hadn't been attached before if it was on the column... so I'm betting that's it.

I'll check tonight and let you know! Thanks so much!

Terry

[Calif240]

Also, to the right of your fingers looks to be a bracket that I don't have... I'm not sure if you have a column shift, but there's no black bracket on mine.

[green69rt]

Also, to the right of your fingers looks to be a bracket that I don't have... I'm not sure if you have a column shift, but there's no black bracket on mine.

That black bracket is the detents for the shifter so you won't find it on your column.

[Calif240]

Green69RT!!! That's it my friend! I owe you a beer. The previous owner had tightened the bolts all the way up for some reason so I couldn't even see that it had any attachment below. They looked like just part of the upper steering  wheel assembly.

Once I get those connected, I'm sure that will fix my issue... owe you a beer, as I've fought this headache for years!!!


Thanks again all!!!

[ACUDANUT]

Only a Beer ? I'd buy him a case.

[green69rt]

Good deal, glad to help.  Those three (edit: only two) square head bolts are a pain to get engaged correctly and there is a torque spec (can't remember the number) so have patience when assembling.

Here is my 3spd column shift rebuild that describes how I did those bolts and there is a thread here someplace from Mopar4Don on a floor stick shift column rebuild that might help.

http://www.dodgecharger.com/forum/index.php/topic,133398.msg1656324.html#msg1656324

[histoy]

It's been 30 years since I rebuilt one of these columns, but as I recall I put a rubber band around the column to hold the 2 square head bolts in the slots.  Then I slipped the cap over them and installed the 2 nuts.  if the the 2 bolts aren't perfectly aligned to slip in the holes, you can stick a small flat bit screw driver through the hole to help move them in place.   The rubber band will break off as you tighten the parts together.

[Calif240]

Awesome advice... I appreciate it greatly.

Thanks,
Terry