Which Flowmaster:

[Captain D]

Hi folks,

Thinking about upgrading to Flowmaster mufflers, but which to get: 40 Series Delta Flow, Super 40, or the 40 Series...

Which sounds best for the 68-70' Charger with a 383 BB? Although I'm doing searches, if anyone happens to have any cool clips to share of their unit I'd love to view / hear them. Its a tough call since I'd like to still be able to hold a conversation inside the cab, lol. Just curious what folks here are using...

Thank you for your time!

[c00nhunterjoe]

Here is my 383 with 3" flowmaster 50 series suv mufflers. No h pipe

https://youtu.be/9gpncCxfZ44

[Captain D]

Thanks man for your response - I didn't see the 50s SUV option on their list. Is that a term for another one if their options? I'm on the fence between the upper 50s and the 40 Delta Flow...hmm, decisions decisions, lol...

[c00nhunterjoe]

I think they dropped the 50 series suv. It has a new name. I will look into it. It is definatly not the same as the 50 series. 
    Another option to look into is the flowmast fx muffler. It is a new line from them and is a straight through. Basicly the magnaflow and ultraflo style. Its stainless and they are cheap. I just put them on my crown vic and they sound and perform awesome. Half the cost of the 50 suv.

[c00nhunterjoe]

In car of the fx series. I will get one of the outside.
https://youtu.be/e9LkLjOifiM

[c00nhunterjoe]

The 50 series suv muffler that i had on my charger has been renamed the super 50.

[INTMD8]

I removed a pair of stainless Flowmasters from my car. I think 40 series/stainless?  I will check.

If you want them I'll send them to you for the cost of shipping.

[Captain D]

Thank you gents for the replies - I listened to some vids on both the Flowmaster FX & Cherry Bomb Vortex. Both sound pretty good as they seem to be mild aggression levels & tolerable in the cab. I'll be watching more vids to help decide, lol...

INTMD8 - Thank you for the offer, but that level may be a touch more aggressive than I'm looking for. But, yes, thank you again for the offer nonetheless!👍

[c00nhunterjoe]

If you want to hear the fx mufflers in person just let me know.

[Just 6T9 CHGR]

Its a tough call since I'd like to still be able to hold a conversation inside the cab, lol.

In an honest answer to your question, using your statement above, I'd have to say none of them.......

[cdr]

Its a tough call since I'd like to still be able to hold a conversation inside the cab, lol.

In an honest answer to your question, using your statement above, I'd have to say none of them.......

WHAT

[c00nhunterjoe]

The fx mufflers i have are quiet inside the cabin. You can hear the squeaks and rattles of the car over them. They dont get loud until you stand on it, and by loud, i dont mean open header loud, just enough to turn heads to see whats flying by.

[Just 6T9 CHGR]

Its a tough call since I'd like to still be able to hold a conversation inside the cab, lol.

In an honest answer to your question, using your statement above, I'd have to say none of them.......

WHAT

Exactly!  LOL

[4aThrill]

Dynomax all the Brother it's 100% flow more power with torque you tell the difference in the sound for sure,  read up on the X pipe from Dr gas too.

[ACUDANUT]

 Too each their own, I like the FM 

[alfaitalia]

Dynomax all the Brother it's 100% flow more power with torque you tell the difference in the sound for sure,  read up on the X pipe from Dr gas too.

Erm?......Im English....so is there a "TRANSLATE" button on this forum!!

[ACUDANUT]

Dynomax all the Brother it's 100% flow more power with torque you tell the difference in the sound for sure,  read up on the X pipe from Dr gas too.

Erm?......Im English....so is there a "TRANSLATE" button on this forum!!

That's Korndog's job.

[c00nhunterjoe]

I would like to see real world dyno proof that on a true mild street car that you will see a worthwhile increase in power with an x over an h. When making the decision, in my opinion,  it should be based on the sound you want because that is the drastic difference, not the power.

[4aThrill]

http://www.superchevy.com/how-to/exhaust/1504-x-and-h-pipes-add-easy-horsepower-but-which-is-best-for-your-ride

When I can't find my answers on the web, I ask them on here this site, and moparts alittle more knowledge doesn't hurt.  Maybe someone should do an horsepower/low-end Torque test on X and H pipes instead of just talking about it. 

[c00nhunterjoe]

http://www.superchevy.com/how-to/exhaust/1504-x-and-h-pipes-add-easy-horsepower-but-which-is-best-for-your-ride

When I can't find my answers on the web, I ask them on here this site, and moparts alittle more knowledge doesn't hurt.  Maybe someone should do an horsepower/low-end Torque test on X and H pipes instead of just talking about it. 

Did you read the article? Difference is negligible with the h pipe making more low end torque then an x. 2-4 hp advantage at high rpm goes to the x pipe. 2-4 hp on what? A 180 horse 350 or a 900 horse 598? In the mopar world, how high do you spin your big block? 5000? 5500? Even 6k is not "high rpm" the h pipe makes more torque. Ford chevy and dodge magazines will all tell you that. Low end Torque wins on the street, not hp at 8,000, unless you are running slicks, big heads, and an 8" converter.
   As to testing- yup, ive done it, but real world where it counts, not on the dyno. Ive run everything from open header to full tailpipes and every combination in between on several of my cars ranging from a 400 horse 383, 375 horse 5.7 hemi, 700 horse 440, and 260 horse 4.6 ford. Not many people on this forum care about density altitude, vapor pressure,  60' and mph so i dont bother.

[Captain D]

Hmm, good convos, lol. Anyone here run the Cherry Bomb Vortex on theirs, just out of curiosity...?

[Mike DC]

    

I would like to see real world dyno proof that on a true mild street car that you will see a worthwhile increase in power with an x over an h. When making the decision, in my opinion,  it should be based on the sound you want because that is the drastic difference, not the power.

The same could be said about skipping the crossover pipe entirely.  Different sound.  The power loss is barely noticeable for an average street cruiser.

[c00nhunterjoe]

   

I would like to see real world dyno proof that on a true mild street car that you will see a worthwhile increase in power with an x over an h. When making the decision, in my opinion,  it should be based on the sound you want because that is the drastic difference, not the power.

The same could be said about skipping the crossover pipe entirely.  Different sound.  The power loss is barely noticeable for an average street cruiser.

Indeed. But not just the avg street cruiser, all out race cars as well. If there was a worthwhile gain, every race car would run them.... but what do you see at the track? Typical just 12-20" collector extensions...

[alfaitalia]

Bit different on the track where it's all max revs and flat out...on the street you will want back that midrange torque that open pipes loose. A little back pressure will help keep the fuel in the cylinders on valve overlap and help with flexibility and midrange.....far more useful on the street than finding every last horse imo.

[Lennard]

Bit different on the track where it's all max revs and flat out...on the street you will want back that midrange torque that open pipes loose. A little back pressure will help keep the fuel in the cylinders on valve overlap and help with flexibility and midrange.....far more useful on the street than finding every last horse imo.

Specially for you...
https://m.youtube.com/watch?v=jjPeP_Nn2B4

[c00nhunterjoe]

Bit different on the track where it's all max revs and flat out...on the street you will want back that midrange torque that open pipes loose. A little back pressure will help keep the fuel in the cylinders on valve overlap and help with flexibility and midrange.....far more useful on the street than finding every last horse imo.

Adding an x pipe to gain 2-3 hp is finding every last hp imo... my car launches at 1900 rpm. I would count that as lowend and flexibility. The avg dyno almost always starts their pulls in the lower midrange rpm. In my builds i look for max power across the entire range, not just peak. Show me legitimate dyno sheets with back to back testing of open header, collectors, and full exhaust that shows me the full exhaust making the best numbers.

[alfaitalia]

Bit different on the track where it's all max revs and flat out...on the street you will want back that midrange torque that open pipes loose. A little back pressure will help keep the fuel in the cylinders on valve overlap and help with flexibility and midrange.....far more useful on the street than finding every last horse imo.

Specially for you...
https://m.youtube.com/watch?v=jjPeP_Nn2B4

The man is an idiot....he does not allow for any valve over lap ...be clearly says "when the exhaust valve closed and then the inlet valve opens".....when was the last time that happened? 1935? It's great to expel all the exhaust gases...but not if it's taking half the incoming fresh charge with it.

[alfaitalia]

Bit different on the track where it's all max revs and flat out...on the street you will want back that midrange torque that open pipes loose. A little back pressure will help keep the fuel in the cylinders on valve overlap and help with flexibility and midrange.....far more useful on the street than finding every last horse imo.

Adding an x pipe to gain 2-3 hp is finding every last hp imo... my car launches at 1900 rpm. I would count that as lowend and flexibility. The avg dyno almost always starts their pulls in the lower midrange rpm. In my builds i look for max power across the entire range, not just peak. Show me legitimate dyno sheets with back to back testing of open header, collectors, and full exhaust that shows me the full exhaust making the best numbers.

Fair enough...but I don't really think that a drag race car can be compared to a daily driven street car. The couple of times I've fitted straight through exhausts on cars of mine I've noticed poor off idle to midrange response and excess unburnt fuel in the exhaust gas analyzer. Neither of which would concern anyone on the track. These were more modern (1990s) cars with higher rev ranges it must be said.

[c00nhunterjoe]

Thats odd seeing as how the arguement for exhaust and mufflers is straight through design by all manufactures and all performance categories.
   Were your 90s cars retuned after each change? Early eec processors could not adapt to changes and needed reburns for modifications. Even eec 5 and modern can systems need reflashes for aftermarket upgrades.
   Fwiw, my "race" cars are street cars. I could drive them daily if i chose to and if the weather is not unbearbly hot, i do drive them near daily. And aside from my race cars, my 07 5.7 hemi charger was pure stock other then exhaust and my own written ecm flash. On stock 245s (not drag radials) i was running 13.0s with 1.8 60'. Stock manifolds, stock 2.82 rear. 150k on the clock. 2.5 inch exhaust, ultra mufflers... h pipe. I ran the x at the track with the h back to back and saw ZERO change. Graphs were identical, af was spot on, even tried tweaking, no improvement.  To note- that car went 14.0s as purchased. 13.80s after bolting on the new exhaust. The rest was laptop time.

[alfaitalia]

I'm not disputing that straight through pipes ultimately give the most peak power....but at what cost? Usually at the cost of a loss of low down torque...which is where a street car needs it. That's why lots of newer cars (and for many years on bikes....my Yamaha FZR 1000 had a gate valve in the collector on 1989!) have valves or flaps that partially close the exhaust at low revs...to minimise low revs torque.. To me the area under the dyno curve is far more important than the peak number.

[c00nhunterjoe]

Im not aware of modern cars using restrictor flaps in the exhaust with the exception of volkswagon and audi. And i dont count much that they do as it is expensive and never works. Area under the curve is important on every engine except maybe rotaries. And i dont count those either....lol