HEMI68CHARGER Press Release #614 426 HEMI Charger 500 Restoration

[hemi-hampton]

Look Nice

[hemi68charger]

Operation Hemi C500 booster;
Touched off some painting details on the booster and installed it.. My shelves are getting thinner. Have to get the gold cad nut on the back plate yet..  Even have the correct master cylinder cap for the thing.

[DAY CLONA]

Troy...loose the gasket between the master to booster, that gasket is for a manual master to firewall plate only, no gasket on booster to master install, check your booster pushrod clearance/air gap as well.... .020-.060 for Bendix Mopar applications

Mike

[Dragon Slayer]

The SAE 70?  You also want the square tip cover gasket, not the round one.  Just curious on the LCA pictures you showed with PST bushings,  Do those bushing limit how far the LCA pin inserts?  Original bushings are flush to the LCA rotating assembly.  Which means the pin goes in the LCA bushing further.  Seems like those pins will reposition the LCA further to the rear of the car as shown.  I am just curious, I have just finished disassembling a 70 K frame and have to chose which bushing to use.

[hemi68charger]

Troy...loose the gasket between the master to booster, that gasket is for a manual master to firewall plate only, no gasket on booster to master install, check your booster pushrod clearance/air gap as well.... .020-.060 for Bendix Mopar applications

Mike

Thanks Mike.. I'll remove and touch up the MC nuts... I know this is a stupid question, how does one adjust/confirm the air gap for the rod?

Troy

The SAE 70?  You also want the square tip cover gasket, not the round one.  Just curious on the LCA pictures you showed with PST bushings,  Do those bushing limit how far the LCA pin inserts?  Original bushings are flush to the LCA rotating assembly.  Which means the pin goes in the LCA bushing further.  Seems like those pins will reposition the LCA further to the rear of the car as shown.  I am just curious, I have just finished disassembling a 70 K frame and have to chose which bushing to use.

Thanks for the head's up on the lid seal, I was wondering about that. I believe I have an extra laying round here.. Regarding the LCA bushings, I have them in my Daytona and have no issues...

[hemi68charger]

Operation "We have lights";

  Probably the 1st time in nearly 40 years that the back of this car had a functioning taillamps. And have the proper 1095 taillamp bulb.. Hooked up my work bench power supply and voila, lights.. Coming along..

[DAY CLONA]

Thanks Mike.. I'll remove and touch up the MC nuts... I know this is a stupid question, how does one adjust/confirm the air gap for the rod?

Troy

It's best accomplished with a set of dial/digital calipers to measure the booster pushrod from the booster's/master's mounting face, and the rear of the master's mounting face to the master's bore depth to determine the air gap, there's also tools available just for the job...

Too little a gap, or the booster pushrod being collapsed when the master is bolted on will result in the brakes (esp the front) dragging, too much gap and your pedal travel will be greater (to the floor) to engage the brakes...

Mike

[DAY CLONA]

  Do those bushing limit how far the LCA pin inserts?  Original bushings are flush to the LCA rotating assembly.  Which means the pin goes in the LCA bushing further.  Seems like those pins will reposition the LCA further to the rear of the car as shown.  I am just curious, I have just finished disassembling a 70 K frame and have to chose which bushing to use.

I've been using poly bushings on my personal/customer's builds for about 30+ years, your correct the poly bushing will relocate the LCA rearward, also giving you a slight ability to increase forward caster more during alignment (good thing), however you need to use the proper front strut rod POLY bushings so that you don't pull the outer end(ball joint end) of the LCA forward causing the arm to be pitched forward at an angle and causing premature wear of components as well as alignment/steering/handling issues

FYI, if you've never done LCA poly bushings, the majority of kits on the market will require you to leave the outer steel sleeve of the old rubber bushing in the LCA, just burn out the rubber and inner sleeve, you will also be required in the majority of poly kits to reuse the inner sleeve and press it on the LCA pivot shaft, note the POLY LCA bushing will spin in the LCA sleeved bore, this is it's design/function unlike the OEM rubber bushing pressed into the LCA and relying on torsional twisting of the stationary bushing for function... be sure not to use petroleum products to install/lubricate POLY joints as that will degrade the POLY, use the recommend lube to install/lubricate. tighten all components at ride height, unless specified differently by the POLY mfg...

Mike

[Dragon Slayer]

[/quote]

Thanks Mike.. I'll remove and touch up the MC nuts... I know this is a stupid question, how does one adjust/confirm the air gap for the rod?

Troy

If you are using an original Bendix MC, you can just measure the rod length on the boost.  .995"  Hemi or Non Hemi.

[hemi68charger]

Thanks guys..   

[hemi68charger]

Operation Horn relay; 69 Charger 500
Ok. I am obsessed.  😁
Took the original relay electrical mechanism out of the original can (with date code of 2128).. Then I had the can replated with some other parts. Found a new vintage Niehoff relay with the exact electrical mechanism as what I needed for my Charger.. As you can see, the 1st one I got didn't have the same rivet that attaches the center spade as that of my original one.

[69_500]

Troy, it is the same mechanism but not exactly the same. See the stampings on the top? not the same.

Just trying to     lol

[hemi68charger]

Troy, it is the same mechanism but not exactly the same. See the stampings on the top? not the same.

Just trying to     lol

😁   there is a subtle difference to be honest but very minute.. This was the closest I could find.

[aerolith]

Nice work Troy!

But where do you draw the line?

This was my biggest 'hang-up' when I started stripping my C500.

Once you start re-fitting new stuff next to 50 year old stuff, it gets kinda crazy, where do you stop...
Before you know it, its a NOS re-creation of a 50 year old car...

[hemi68charger]

Nice work Troy!

But where do you draw the line?

This was my biggest 'hang-up' when I started stripping my C500.

Once you start re-fitting new stuff next to 50 year old stuff, it gets kinda crazy, where do you stop...
Before you know it, its a NOS re-creation of a 50 year old car...

I do as much as my knowledge will take me (unfortunately I bought Dave Wise's Restoration and Judging book, so my detailed knowledge is much higher now).. Then, there's the financial means to do it... I do what I can... Sometimes I spend extra for something, usually those things that are seen all the time.

[hemi68charger]

Operation Engine bay..
Thought I'd spend some time in the engine compartment today.. Transferred a proper voltage regulator cover on a solid-state unit. Just need to find the stencil and date code stamp for the cover from Sylvain. Good day..

PS: thanks to all giving me feedback on my rookie mistake of the washer bottle. Proper one on the way..  😁

[hemi-hampton]

Troy, it is the same mechanism but not exactly the same. See the stampings on the top? not the same.

Just trying to     lol

😁   there is a subtle difference to be honest but very minute.. This was the closest I could find.

a Show Judge might notice that & deduct a point.

[Wingnut426]

Hi Troy, Car looks awesome!  Not be be a trouble maker, but isn't the stamped writing on the voltage regulator supposed to be yellow?  WINGNUT

[hemi68charger]

Hi Troy, Car looks awesome!  Not be be a trouble maker, but isn't the stamped writing on the voltage regulator supposed to be yellow?  WINGNUT

Hey Pete.. It is my understanding that yellow came about around the 3rd week of 1969. My car is a August 21st, 1968 car. So based on MMC, I would have red.  

a Show Judge might notice that & deduct a point.

I am fairly confident I will never go to a judging event like that.. Of course would love to go to Carlisle, Muscle Car Nationals, etc, but not the platinum competition.

[69_500]

The yellow was around before January 1 1969. Have seen yellow as early as December 1, 1968.

[hemi68charger]

The yellow was around before January 1 1969. Have seen yellow as early as December 1, 1968.

Then, the magic transition date may be elusive. I'll try to get close up of vintage Press Release Hemi Charger 500 pictures and focus on the voltage regulator. If I can see the stamp, then it more than likely is yellow. If hard to see, probably red..... My car was built in Aug. 1968......

T

[hemi68charger]

Operation VIN plate;
No need to tell you what this is for, you can read the plate..
Yesterday went and picked up my dash frame from my bud Julius.. He painted the plate as well. He did a great job. Purchased the dry transfer from ECS and it worked perfectly..

[maxwellwedge]

The yellow was around before January 1 1969. Have seen yellow as early as December 1, 1968.

Yellow on my Oct 68 built GTX

[hemi68charger]

The yellow was around before January 1 1969. Have seen yellow as early as December 1, 1968.

Yellow on my Oct 68 built GTX

Man, this is starting to make me wonder which color I need to choose...  Aug. 68

Jim, also, your tailpipe/resonator connection is welded, correct? it is my understanding that is the proper way for the B-bodies just like the E-bodies...

[gtx6970]

The yellow was around before January 1 1969. Have seen yellow as early as December 1, 1968.

Yellow on my Oct 68 built GTX

Man, this is starting to make me wonder which color I need to choose...  Aug. 68

Jim, also, your tailpipe/resonator connection is welded, correct? it is my understanding that is the proper way for the B-bodies just like the E-bodies...

The over axle pipe to resonator is/was always a welded connection. B or E body