brake pedal really not moving lots of parts changed

[Brightyellow69rtse]

ok guys heres a little background  on this ongoing saga. my 69 has 4 11" drum power brakes. last year the brakes just really stopped working. by stopped working i mean i could stand on the pedal and it wouldnt really move much at all and the car would SLOWLY come to a stop. by slowly i mean take 100ft to stop from going 5 mph slow. totally unacceptable.

so this year we decided the cars brakes should be gone through as ive had the car since 2000 and its never really been touched as it dosent see much road time. so the wheel cylinders, hardware and shoes were replaced as well as the power booster and master cylinder. we didnt replace the drums because they honestly look great there isnt even any kind of ridge on them. (having a 4 speed with 4.10s means little braking is necessary haha) we replaced the rear brake lines and the the distribution block thats screwed to the rear end.

we had a terribly hard time getting any fluid to come out when bleeding but we eventually go it. what we found was is that i had to lift the brake pedal up with my hand before i pumped it as it was just sitting too low to get any type of throw. after doing that it bled better. now the brake pedal hardly moved (about a half inch if that)the entire time while we were bleeding them. the only time it would move a decent amount was is when the bleeder was cracked. so we got fluid at all 4 corners anyway.

so we adjusted the drums to where they were dragging just a hair then backed them off (we actually tried several adjustments out of desperation)
fired the car up and i inched it outta the garage and pressed the pedal and its rock hard and dosent move. it mosev so little infact the brake lt moves so little in fact the brake lights wont even turn on. he could even turn the tires by had (it wasnt super easy but hes 65 and could do it  while i was holding the brake pedal as hard as i could.

so im now at a total loss here. my dad did alot of the work as he was out of work for a couple months so it kept him busy. hes at a loss aswell on this one. its really bothered him that all his work didnt make a difference. any advise guys? im kinda getting to the point where i might just take it somewhere and say tell me when its done. i just have a hard time letting people touch my charger so i try to get it all done on my own.

sorry about the novel but i thought a little background story would help   thanks, mike

[charger Downunder]

Pushrod to master cylinder and booster adjustment.
Have you tried that

[Mopar Nut]

I had a similar problem, but my Charger had sat for years. I replaced everything new with the same results. Rebuilt the distribution block (https://www.musclecarresearch.com/site_search/Brake%20Proportioning), problem solved. Must have gummed up sitting.

[6.7Cummins]

My 68 did the same thing, back brake hose was collapsed completely. You can bleed them but when bleeders are shut pedal will be very stiff and lots of effort will be required to stop can if you even can. I would replace all hoses.

[Highbanked Hauler]

    It sounds like you aren't getting fluid to the wheels. Didn't notice, did you change the rubber lines also as they go from the inside and plug up. With a full master cylinder when you crack the bleeders open the car should almost bleed itself from gravity. Also check the metal lines for dents or kinks.

[Brightyellow69rtse]

Pushrod to master cylinder and booster adjustment.
Have you tried that

I bought the master and booster as an assembly. We just put it in. Does it have to come out to be adjusted?

[Brightyellow69rtse]

I had a similar problem, but my Charger had sat for years. I replaced everything new with the same results. Rebuilt the distribution block (https://www.musclecarresearch.com/site_search/Brake%20Proportioning), problem solved. Must have gummed up sitting.

Not to sound stupid but is that the block on the rear end or under the master?

[Brightyellow69rtse]

    It sounds like you aren't getting fluid to the wheels. Didn't notice, did you change the rubber lines also as they go from the inside and plug up. With a full master cylinder when you crack the bleeders open the car should almost bleed itself from gravity. Also check the metal lines for dents or kinks.

We didn't change any of the rubber lines. I talked to my dad and I guess the bleeders were left open for sometime and the fluid didn't leak out of the master whatsoever.

[Brightyellow69rtse]

Anyone know if there's a better bleed screw that I can put on the front? It's in a trrrible place to get it.

[Mopar Nut]

I had a similar problem, but my Charger had sat for years. I replaced everything new with the same results. Rebuilt the distribution block (https://www.musclecarresearch.com/site_search/Brake%20Proportioning), problem solved. Must have gummed up sitting.

Not to sound stupid but is that the block on the rear end or under the master?

Located under the master.

[Highbanked Hauler]

    It sounds like you aren't getting fluid to the wheels. Didn't notice, did you change the rubber lines also as they go from the inside and plug up. With a full master cylinder when you crack the bleeders open the car should almost bleed itself from gravity. Also check the metal lines for dents or kinks.

We didn't change any of the rubber lines. I talked to my dad and I guess the bleeders were left open for sometime and the fluid didn't leak out of the master whatsoever.

  Turn the bleeders all the way out, they might be full of rust. If you don't get fluid at the wheel cylinders disconnect the steel lines from the rubber lines and see if you get fluid there. Go upstream to where you get  fluid..

[Brightyellow69rtse]

    It sounds like you aren't getting fluid to the wheels. Didn't notice, did you change the rubber lines also as they go from the inside and plug up. With a full master cylinder when you crack the bleeders open the car should almost bleed itself from gravity. Also check the metal lines for dents or kinks.

I am getting fluid to the wheels. The wheel cylinders are brand new. The pedal just is rock hard and has about 0 throw.
We didn't change any of the rubber lines. I talked to my dad and I guess the bleeders were left open for sometime and the fluid didn't leak out of the master whatsoever.

  Turn the bleeders all the way out, they might be full of rust. If you don't get fluid at the wheel cylinders disconnect the steel lines from the rubber lines and see if you get fluid there. Go upstream to where you get  fluid..

[6.7Cummins]

Change you rubber lines, I'm sure it will solve your problem.

[Brightyellow69rtse]

thank you all for the replies ill keep you updated as soon as i can get back to the car.