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2001 Ram 4x4 5.2L Freeze Plugs

Started by TexasStroker, February 01, 2019, 05:19:13 PM

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TexasStroker

Just curious if anyone has tackled replacing the freeze plugs on a 5.2/5.9 in a 2nd gen Ram?  If so, did you do it in vehicle, drop the transmission, or just pull the motor?

There are 3 on each bank and the back two on the side banks are the big problems.  The one above the starter is leaking slightly worse than the RH side.  The center two are both 100% obscured by the motor mounts and I have yet to get a good look at them.  The front two, on both banks, are still mint and one would never assume, based on their appearance, that the back 2 would  be that bad.

I would like to think that by pulling the starter I could get both of the rear plugs done with the motor in place.  If the center two plugs are leaking, I'd have to try and jack the motor up, pull the mounts, and go to town.  Fwiw, the Magnum mounts are quite different than the old LA style.

The elephant in the room however would be the two freeze plugs on the back of the block.  They are 100% hidden by the transmission.  That said, there seems to be no trace of leakage.

The truck is basically bone stock and I've had to do virtually nothing outside of routine maintenance over the nearly 2 decades I've had it.  My initial plan was to have a shop do it...figured there best course of action would be to drop the tranny and replace all the plugs.  I've yet to find a shop that seems to think they can handle it...all give horror stories of some brand x truck that turned into a nightmare for them with tons of other issues being unearthed. 
That also doesn't bode well with me because I've started to lose what slim confidence I was placing in having someone else do the job.

My issue is simple...no lift and no transmission jack.  To do it right and replace all the plugs, my best course of action would be to pull the motor, which is a lot of work for changing out core plugs.  My other option is to try and change the 3 on the side banks and wait to pull the motor/trans when and if the rear plugs ever start to leak.  Despite being nearly 20 years old and driven regularly the truck is just shy of 50k...no other leaks, or issues (aside from the dash cracking).

This is one of the rare occasions when I decided it would be best to take something to a shop and I'm only coming back with hesitation on their end.  I'm not 100% sure dropping the tranny would give sufficient access to remove and install new plugs, and coupled with my lack of a lift etc. pulling the motor seems to be my only option to do it on my own.  Fwiw, I think that with the core support out I should be able to get the motor out with my engine lift.  Torn 50/50 on just replacing what I can get to, or just yanking the motor and doing everything.

Always nice to see $10s worth of brass plugs turn into a massive headache.  If you have been down the road before, any insights would be appreciated.
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69wannabe

I have a friend with an 01 dodge 2wd with the 360 V8 I had to do the freeze plugs on his several years back. The only one I had trouble with was the very front one on the driver side, I couldn't get a good hit to get a new metal freeze plug in there so that one wound up with a rubber plug in it. I do remember pulling the starter off and removing the motor mounts from the engine to get the rest of them changed out. It's a crap job for sure but it is doable. You may have to remove the front drive shaft to get more room to work since yours is a 4x4. Jegs shows a freeze plug installation tool that may do some good, it actually looks like it would work well. Good luck with it....

TexasStroker

Thanks for the feedback...glad to hear you've been down that road and lived to tell about it, lol.  I've been looking at the install tools, but if I remember correctly the plugs are 1.625" and the kits have 1.500" and 1.750."  I will have to check that tonight in the shop.  I could still probably use the bent rods to square up a socket if need be...

I'm half tempted to replace the side freeze plugs and then fill it up with water...that will let me know if the plugs on the back of the block are an issue.  I got a battery swap done on the Challenger after work and that will let me get the truck back in the shop.  I'll try to get a mirror in to evaluate the middle 2 plugs.

If anyone else has any insights please let me know...I'd rather learn ahead of the curve on this one. 
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c00nhunterjoe

Ive done plenty on the trucks. A lift is a huge plus. I wouldnt do them on the ground.

69wannabe

I wish I had a lift to work off of, most everything I do is off of the ground. They do suck to change but are not impossible

TexasStroker

Quote from: c00nhunterjoe on February 02, 2019, 04:30:52 PM
Ive done plenty on the trucks. A lift is a huge plus. I wouldnt do them on the ground.

I agree with that, hence why the original plan was to have a shop do it.  I figured they could just drop the transmission and knock them all out.  Would be the easiest route imo.

Quote from: 69wannabe on February 03, 2019, 11:34:14 PM
I wish I had a lift to work off of, most everything I do is off of the ground. They do suck to change but are not impossible

I'll be on the ground as well.

**

I got the plugs ordered tonight, should have them tomorrow or Wednesday.  I also held off on an install tool...nothing I could find offered the 1.625" size so I figured before shelling out another $50-$80 I'd see how much space I could clear up.  If I wind up having to pull the motor, the install tool would be a moot point.

Do y'all put any sort of sealer on them, or just punch them in dry?
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alfaitalia

Ive always used this ....and its predecessor. Even thought they should not leak if you go in dry they certainly go in a lot easier with a dab of sealant.

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TexasStroker

I ordered some non-hardening gasket material.  I'd agree on anything helping them go in better...I usually use marine grade anti-size on most fasteners.  I'll try to go lightly and avoid anything getting in the water jacket.
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gtx6970

IMO, pull the trans
For me personally its easier
Ive done several trans jobs in these trucks on the ground.
To me the worst part is getting the exhaust head pipe  loose from the manifolds ( use new nuts / bolts when going back together )

I'll give you a little hint . I use a hydraulic ram set up to slightly spread the frame to get the rear cross member out, Keep in mind slightly means exactly that.

TexasStroker

Did you just drop it on a low profile transmission jack?

If this was a car I'd be set.  The truck is a factory Off-Road and sits up pretty good.  That is usually a great thing in terms of me servicing it...this is the exception.  I've dropped the 727 and 904 in the Charger and Duster onto boards across floor jacks.  I don't believe even my highest lift jack would meet up with the truck's transmission.  If it was 2WD I think I could probably get by with the high lift jack.

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