Headlight buzzer wiring diagram?

[rikubot]

Looking for a diagram of the headlight warning buzzer. I can't seem to find one online. Also if anyone has one for sale I might be interested.
- M

[rikubot]

Found a diagram of the harness. I'd like to see what the harness looks like and maybe get some measurements if anyone's got one.

[tan top]

 

[rikubot]

Wow tan top thank you! I searched pretty hard just for pictures like this. Very helpful. Can you tell if the ends going to the door pins are the regular quick connect pins or are they different?

[tan top]

Wow tan top thank you! I searched pretty hard just for pictures like this. Very helpful. Can you tell if the ends going to the door pins are the regular quick connect pins or are they different?

when you  have the A47 light package  with buzzer there are  miles & miles of yellow wires  under the dash, in a loop type circuit, where the pin switch / dome  lighting  circuit , could be simply  added to  at factory depending what options were ordered , the yellow wiring was / is  connected  all together with bullet connections, so just meant pulling  a connector apart & adding a yellow from buzzer  or  ignition switch  light,  the door pin switches are a two connector type, &  use very small female spade connectors , take the pin switch out & measure , also there is no way connecting the wires to pin switch once  they are  screwed in to the A pillar / post,  you have to thread the yellow wires out through the hole , then connect pin switch & screw back in , once you see the size on the pin switch hole , if you don't know already , you get the idea how small the female spade ends have to be, almost like speaker ones
. the factory OEM  set up  its a confusing mess of  spagghetti, i kept  mine like it for years even after the  nut & bolt resto, then decided to make it simpler, off the top of my head i cant remember what i done now been so long ago,  but those pictures are 100 % accurate what goes where, all that is missing from  those pictures is two door pin switches with  two lengths on yellow wire on each & male & female bullet connectors, to connect  one to the dash harness  pin switch wire & one to the buzzer wire in pictures i posted, each side, just read this back to my self sounds a bit confusing i know, seemed ok when I was thinking as I was typing , hope it makes sense  

[rikubot]

No that was definitely well written. It makes perfect sense coupled with the images. It looks pretty easy to build as well. I need to get a hold of a pair of the door pins and make the harness. i couldn't find any of the buzzer relays In my price range. I was also wondering how the ignition light delay works. I wired up my map light tonight and the door grounds ant light all work as designed, but the key light would not come in. Took the relay apart and the insides still looked good. It seems I've wired it in correctly. I am perplexed. Could possibly be a bad wire but I couldn't find my test light. Any ideas?

[rikubot]

I looked at the pictures closely and it appears I wired mine exactly the same. Scratching my head over here.

One more question, did the Light Package come with the light warning buzzer optional or was it always included?

[Nacho-RT74]

[tan top]

 the ignition switch light, is controlled by what they call a thermo time relay, there is a bi metallic strip in there ! & when cold it is straight & makes the circuit, when the door is opened or dash dimmer switch is operated so all internal lights operate, current flows through the bi metallic strip ! it heats up & bends braking the circuit at a pre determined number of seconds light goes off, close door/s current no longer flows through thermo time switch, it cools down it straightens back out connecting the circuit for next time, the door opens & or the dash dimmer is operated. there was a thread some years back, about some faulty thermo time switches, think they were aftermarket from some source , or faulty originals, anyway the the bi metallic strip in side bent the wrong way or was faulty & stuck closed, light on all the time ! causing it to get hot enough to burn your fingers, don't think it caused any fires, just  done a quick search on here, cant find it, might of been on old site.
A01  the light group, could only be had as a package, as Natcho-RT-74  has kindly posted the page from Barrys awesome website Hamtramck historical https://www.hamtramck-historical.com/images/dealerships/DealershipDataBook/1969/69_Charger0019.jpg .  IMO the way the light group wiring is put together, not only could be ordered as a factory option, but a dealer dealer install also  , because it was all connected with a number of bullet connections.   also whats to say a customer buying a new car from dealer stock , says I like that particular charger , but it has no glove box or map light etc or ... the way its wired up, the dealer service bay guys could easily fit  said parts the customer wanted  , just to sell a car etc   

[rikubot]

I took mine apart to look at it last night. So when the two prods are NOT touching, the light should be on?

[tan top]

I took mine apart to look at it last night. So when the two prods are NOT touching, the light should be on?

all the above was going by memory , been about 20 years since I had a look inside the original to see why it stopped working one day ,  when I get chance will take  apart the one in my charger now  , connect it back up & try to take pictures of  thermo time switch  light off & light on .

[rikubot]

Thanks Nacho, looks like once I get the time delay working the only ones left are the buzzer and ash lamp. I was going through my wiring last night and realized I like the traditional ones better too. The main reason I went LED was because the traditional ones heat up so much.

Thanks for clearing that up Tan Top. As I was stringing it up with all that yellow wiring I wondered if I was doing something wrong. It certainly does look like a spaghetti mess back there eighth now. I'm going to mess with the relay again tonight and see if I can figure it out. It will help to know how it works now. Do you have any pictures of the small female ends that hook up to the blades on the door pin? Wouldn't one of the two have to go from blade style to bullet style? I'm determined to get this map light package working. I think it's super cool despite all the wiring and sketchy fuse box piggy-backing. Thanks for the history behind it as well!

[rikubot]

Workin on the lights again. Can't seem to get the ignition light to work. When the door is "open", only the pink wire lights up my test light. When the door is closed, the pink AND yellow wires light up my tester. I'm sure is is a lot simpler than I'm making this. Maybe the relay is bad? Have one on the way from the site Nacho recommended but that won't be here til the 22nd. I'm fairly certain no one has ever made a sketchier bench testing setup 

[tan top]

had a look!  &  removed thermo timer relay,  picture did not come out  that good, thought about shining a light behind it, to show the small gap, but then would be like taking a picture of the sun, right this is how it works, think my memory was getting a little confused in my last post, I remembered straight away, from years ago once I saw it, THIS IS HOW IT WORKS ! when  no doors open there is a small gap ! once door is open & or the dome switch is operated to light up all interior lights, heat from the current, bends the metal tang tab  thingy, which makes the circuit, & ignition light comes on with in a couple of seconds ! & stays on all the while the door is open, ( hence why you should remove relay if your working with  door open for any length of time, it heats up really hot , & causes premature wear )  when the door is closed, the light will remain on for a pre determined number of seconds, till the metal tang thingy cools down & straightens breaking the contact, then ignition light goes off. was impossible to take picture of relay under there with light on for reference , to show metal tang thingy heated up & bent making the circuit , I did try    
took a couple of pictures of door pin switch, cant show the small female spade connectors, because they have to be the uninsulated  type, because of clearance issues. the factory used a piece of  rubber for insulation , I used heat shrink. just measure  what spade ends for pin switch will use , use the un insulated type ,  remove the plastic insulation from insulated type , what ever ones fit yours best  

if my A01 light group harness was still factory original I would remove it all lay it out on the bench & take pictures for you, but that wiring is no longer stock,  
when I went back with all new M&H harnesses after I done the nut & bolt resto , I still used the original A01 OEM  harness, then after a while went in to the M&H dash / engine bay harness's & done my own take on  the MAD amp gauge wiring to volt meter conversion, then got a bit carried away & proceeded to re design the charging circuit & ignition etc , & in the end altered a lot more stuff , along with making &  simplifying a new  A01 wiring harness. then wrapped all the new wiring alterations in harness tape, clipped  zipped tied it all neat kind of like what modern cars are like. then  protecting every thing with a couple of blade type fuse boxes , in conjunction with the OEM fuse box, over kill maybe, but when it comes to the charger, nothing is to much trouble to do,  so even if I took pictures of mine would not be any good, for anyone using a stock OEM set up, ( plus mine is not a 5 minute job to take out & put back now )
 all the previous  pictures I have posted of the A01 harness are & labeled  are 100% correct for  a 69 charger,  although have seen a slight variation, maybe different supplier to the factory. yes the  yellow wires to the door pin switches , do need  bullet connectors  at one end to connect to the yellow dome light wiring , but cant remember now how it went  originally, I use to , but have long since forgotten, think it would be a trial & error if you got all the parts, its just a matter of connecting the yellow ground circuit in the right order,  Im not saying for certain but  I just might  have the original or parts of the A01 harness stored away, somewhere, no telling when I could start looking for it, means taking tons of stuff down from my workshop attic space. i'm sure if you could find every part of the A01 harness , along with the missing pin switch yellow wires  & their factory  connections  & lay it out  flat  on a bench with close up pictures I would remember it how it goes.
  Im  pretty sure ive posted a few more better labled pictures on the A01 harness on here somewhere , as its cropped up in a number of threads over the years  , just done a search but not found anything

[rikubot]

First off thanks a ton for going out of your way to show me the details of the relay and the door pins. Can't stress enough how big of a hell that is. Last night I found one of the door switches with the two male blades on it and one of what appears to be the small spade ment to fit through that hole. I'll have to go scrounging through the yard here in Pueblo to see if I can find another pin and the tiny spades. I need to dig out an ash tray light too if I can find one. When I had my relay hooked up I had the case off so I could see what was going on. The contacts never touched as far as I could see. I hope that's they whole problem with my light not working because that makes me feel better about being so confused. So you said the ignition light also comes on when you use the roller wheel to turn on the dome and courtesy lights? Also, does the ignition light itself need to be grounded to the dash frame? I have mine hanging out the back so I can see it as I test the wiring out. I did hold it up to the dash stand (which I know is a good ground) and still didn't get it to light up, but when I bypass the relay it lights up. When it's wired correctly, is the relay supposed to mount somewhere like the flasher or just dangle around?

He's the door pin I was looking at. I'm going to try find used to save a buck, but that should work, correct? I noticed the part that compresses is not exactly the same length as yours, but it should still work right? Thanks again for that write-up and for going through the trouble. Helps a lot!

https://rover.ebay.com/rover/0/0/0?mpre=https%3A%2F%2Fwww.ebay.com%2Fulk%2Fitm%2F132891953874

[rikubot]

So I've come up with a list of things I need to make my A01 package complete:

- warning buzzer harness

- warning buzzer relay

- ash tray lamp

- door pins and connectors

- working thermal relay (hopefully that's the issue with the ignition light)

I'll see what I can dig up on the net and the yard. It would be awesome to have it complete.

[tan top]

First off thanks a ton for going out of your way to show me the details of the relay and the door pins. Can't stress enough how big of a hell that is. Last night I found one of the door switches with the two male blades on it and one of what appears to be the small spade ment to fit through that hole. I'll have to go scrounging through the yard here in Pueblo to see if I can find another pin and the tiny spades. I need to dig out an ash tray light too if I can find one. When I had my relay hooked up I had the case off so I could see what was going on. The contacts never touched as far as I could see. I hope that's they whole problem with my light not working because that makes me feel better about being so confused. So you said the ignition light also comes on when you use the roller wheel to turn on the dome and courtesy lights? Also, does the ignition light itself need to be grounded to the dash frame? I have mine hanging out the back so I can see it as I test the wiring out. I did hold it up to the dash stand (which I know is a good ground) and still didn't get it to light up, but when I bypass the relay it lights up. When it's wired correctly, is the relay supposed to mount somewhere like the flasher or just dangle around?

He's the door pin I was looking at. I'm going to try find used to save a buck, but that should work, correct? I noticed the part that compresses is not exactly the same length as yours, but it should still work right? Thanks again for that write-up and for going through the trouble. Helps a lot!

your welcome  , glad to help , were all charger nuts on here & any excuse to talk about them  
thought I done a yellow wire diagram   have a look here  
http://www.dodgecharger.com/forum/index.php/topic,4487.50.html  

more good reading

http://www.dodgecharger.com/forum/index.php/topic,86245.0.html
http://www.dodgecharger.com/forum/index.php/topic,97028.0.html

the longer  pin switch you mentioned  , I cant see a picture of it , if you did  indeed post one.  to use it or not, well IMO I would not bother just get the correct one, but  if it screws into the A  pillar / post ok, &  it retracts far enough with out touching some thing inside  use it , but  remember once the spade terminals  are fitted & the longer pin , there might not be enough room inside the A pillar/ post  to retract, think it is or was tight with the correct ones  

attaching pictures , the dash fame is of a none rally dash ( only one I could find on the net that's showed the locations I needed for this thread ), but the  location holes for the relay brackets &  the buzzer mounting screw are the same ,
TBH, I would not bother searching for a original AO1 harnesses or  buy one to use  , they are 50 years old now, I would only use it as a pattern to make a new one, I thought mine was ok for years, but the yellow wires were so hard & brittle , ( before I done the nut & bolt resto ) I wondered what the little brown stain marks at random locations  on the yellow wiring , it was only after I made a new one I  investigated, by carefully cutting open the original yellow wires where the marks were , I was surprised to find  the wire inside was broken or down to one or two strands & blue black color to the copper ( every  light worked as it  should though ), the brown stains on the insulation was caused by arcing / shorting  in side, the outer casing did not show any signs of heat damage , just tiny brown patches to the insulation.  goes with out saying take no chances with old wiring,

the ignition switch light needs to be grounded  through the side of the bulb cap, just like ordinary  bulbs do ,  the thermo timer relay, was just laying up under the dash, no mounting bracket on mine.
hope this helps, & don't sound too confusing  

 

[rikubot]

I just noticed on your first link that it was me asking for the buzzer diagram in 2015   I think I have up back then because everything was so missing and butchered that I didn't want to bother with it. Now that the dash is out I'm determined.

I noticed after I posted that the link didn't work. I'll get that back up there so you can see it.

https://rover.ebay.com/rover/0/0/0?mpre=https%3A%2F%2Fwww.ebay.com%2Fulk%2Fitm%2F132891953874

I think the rally dash has a few subtle differences. I'll post a pic of mine. It's hard to see but you can see that the flasher mount in the right is on a different place. The pic is poor cuz I'm not with the car and can't get a better one. Just happened to notice it in an old pic.

I completely agree with you about not using the old wire. I'm going to use new wiring everywhere I possibly can. Mine is also old and brittle and I'm assuming new wire is made with better material now. I have a friend with a '69 Charger in a backyard that has the cluster out so I'm hoping he will let me pull the warning light buzzer out and I'll build one off that. Just have to find the right connectors which doesn't sound fun.

No that's not confusing at all. Once I got an idea from looking at your photos I got an idea of the full picture. I Have a hard time with electrical circuits in general but everything is making sense now. That reminds me, I still need the little blue cap for the end of the ignition light. Have any idea what it's called or where to look? Thanks again for all the help and pictures.

Here's where mine clips in. If I remember right, I only have the one clip.  Now that it's out I'll be able to get a better look.

[Nacho-RT74]

just in case needing one:

https://www.ebay.com/itm/Turnsignal-Flasher-Holder-Mopar/123598443846?hash=item1cc70a9546:g:2aQAAOSweXFb44tB:rk:1:pf:0

( althought I think they are WAY overpriced )

[rikubot]

Haha I was wondering if I needed one because I only have the one. Yes, way overpriced but nice to have if I can't find one at the yard. Thanks Nacho 

[rikubot]

Finally got some time to work on my wiring. I got the new thermal relay in the mail and tried it out. Worked like a charm. Everything that's wired in right now works, and that's the first time in a long time. I got a picture of my one dual spade door pin attached and the clip where the flash pops in. I only have one place for one as far as I can tell so I don't know what's going on there. I think it's the ralleye dash frame. It has the round speedo and tach.

Also wanted to note that the ignition light itself is probably the saddest little light ever haha. It's a dim incandescent little bulb stuck in a tube with a time hole in it covered by blue plastic. I wish I could get an LED in there!

[Nacho-RT74]

72/74 got a diff kind of assembly for the ign light, but ashtray light is similar and I enlarged the light hole just a bit. It made a big difference

[rikubot]

That's cool. I think I'm going to do that as well. Do you know where I can get a spare to cut up? Something less than the $45 theyre asking for online 

[rikubot]

I've been looking for the warning buzzer for the harness. Can't seem to find anything that's not around a hundred dollars. Is there an equivalent you can get from a parts store?