Help with building wiring harnesse

[rikubot]

Hey ladies and gents. After seeing how expensive new wiring harnesses are and after not being able to find some  I've decided to build my own. If any of the pros feel like sharing tips, tricks, product links etc I'd greatly appreciate it.

I've been looking at some wire and terminal connectors on eBay:

https://rover.ebay.com/rover/0/0/0?mpre=https%3A%2F%2Fwww.ebay.com%2Fulk%2Fitm%2F291988505052

https://rover.ebay.com/rover/0/0/0?mpre=https%3A%2F%2Fwww.ebay.com%2Fulk%2Fitm%2F192502001151

[doctor4766]

I'd be looking at a full harness like I used.
Piece of cake to install and every wire is labelled as to what it's for so you can't go too far wrong.
Not completely factory but probably better than trying to knock something up yourself.

https://www.ebay.com/itm/12-Circuit-EZ-mini-FUSE-Wiring-Harness-CHEVY-FORD-Hotrods-UNIVERSAL-X-long-Wires/191957350604?hash=item2cb18cb8cc:g:03YAAOSwMgdXxKsD:rk:22:pf:0

This one has 12 circuits but you can get them with more or less circuits too.
What I like about this style is that the mini fuse box looks better than some of the others.

[armor64]

the terminals may be cheaper at your local parts shop, they are "Delphi/Packard 56 style" (usually) and my local APC  gets them for 10c each. Was able to do up my dads LS swap 51 chevy with proper terminals and plugs.

[nvrbdn]

I would have to agree with doctor4766 on this one. When you bring up that kit he posted, there are several different kits that come up. And for that price, everything is labeled, plus the wires will all be long enough. No guessing. The only thing it seems to be missing is a bulk head connector. All new for as cheap as 92.00 and up.  That's the way I would go.

[b5blue]

  This site is actually fun to use and show how/why components are used. (Not just audio.)  http://www.bcae1.com
NAPA has a nice crimp pliers that folds the connectors to the wire like the factory part #726603. (They also have high quality connectors.)

[Nacho-RT74]

nothing cheaper than make your own... and diagrams are there... terminals and even plugs in most of the cases from single way up to maybe 12 ways. If not exact plastic plug, some similars that changing both ends can be matched without cut anything, just replacing the plastic piece.

I'm agree, get the terminals in bulks in variety of gauges. Most of the car is made on 16 gauge, but some are 14s ( ignition circuit ). Couple in 12 ( batt and alt ). Just afew in 18. They can be found cheaper than the ebay link posted at electrical specialited shops



Colored wires are available even traced!, wrapping tape too ( the correct one, non sticky )

[doctor4766]

I would have to agree with doctor4766 on this one. When you bring up that kit he posted, there are several different kits that come up. And for that price, everything is labeled, plus the wires will all be long enough. No guessing. The only thing it seems to be missing is a bulk head connector. All new for as cheap as 92.00 and up.  That's the way I would go.

This is true.
I guess you could add one in or do as I did and made a plate up to cover the square hole. I drilled a hole in the plate, added a rubber ring and passed the harness through. This also eliminated the old bulk head connector "connections" issue that many seem to come across.
Definitely not for those who want an accurate restoration of a special model, but for those of us with hot-rodded base models it's definitely a good, well priced option.

[Vegas_Nick]

I built my own. (and have for several cars)  Waytek Wire has the terminals and about any style connector you might need. (You can reuse lots of the factory connectors unless the plastic is melted)

[rikubot]

Great information guys. Thank you. I've checked out all the links and I should have a lot of choices as far as materials.
I should explain my situation in more detail. I already have the complete repop dash side wiring harness in the dash now, I was looking to finish a few extra harnesses that I am either missing, are butchered, or are too old and questionable to use. Either I could t find them to buy or they were too expensive. Saw the console courtesy light harness prices at 89.99! Some examples are the Map Light and Warning Buzzer harness, the short section that comes from the A/C controls to the dash harness, the neutral safety harness, etc.

Couple more questions:

Would it be okay to use 16G for everything except the larger gauge wiring like the ones mentioned above?

Where is the most cost effective place to get 10-20 ft of wire? Gonna need a lot of different colors and the tracers mentioned above  as well.

[nvrbdn]

 My question is....... How much does it cost to buy all the wiring, all the connectors, the fuse box, the tools to crimp/attach etc... in order to make a harness?  If the savings is really there, then I could be persuaded, but my time is also worth something. This thing will surely take a few hours to assemble. I am looking at 15-20 for a fuse block according to what type you want and how many fuses. 30-35 for 6 colors of wire at 100 ft. each plus you have to have multiple gauges of wire. And with an 18 ft. car, some of that wire will be gone way before the harness is completed. We still haven't got connectors yet. I am fearing that the harness is looking at 75/80 bucks plus. Then you have the time you will take to try to read a schematic diagram giving color, direction, Length?, and cutting and labeling and..... you get the idea. yea, it would be fun to try to build one in my spare time, but I don't see much of a savings if I can buy this harness for 92.00 and it is labeled and ready to go.

[nvrbdn]

Great information guys. Thank you. I've checked out all the links and I should have a lot of choices as far as materials.
I should explain my situation in more detail. I already have the complete repop dash side wiring harness in the dash now, I was looking to finish a few extra harnesses that I am either missing, are butchered, or are too old and questionable to use. Either I could t find them to buy or they were too expensive. Saw the console courtesy light harness prices at 89.99! Some examples are the Map Light and Warning Buzzer harness, the short section that comes from the A/C controls to the dash harness, the neutral safety harness, etc.

Couple more questions:

Would it be okay to use 16G for everything except the larger gauge wiring like the ones mentioned above?

Where is the most cost effective place to get 10-20 ft of wire? Gonna need a lot of different colors and the tracers mentioned above  as well.


EBAY has multiple colors of 100 ft with 6 different colors on 16 ga. for 26.00  but that is only 6 different colors.

[rikubot]

I agree with you except on the connectors part. At my salvage yard there are tons of cars with very similar if not exact connectors. That's what I used to get my hacked up wiring to match my new dash harness. I'd just go cut a bunch out and drop em on the counter. I completely agree about building the whole harness and I still would have paid the money for mine pre built even after learning what I've learned. But now I'm just doing a bunch of pretty simple harness. Really short, with pretty generic connectors. But you have to be okay with used stuff but most looks and functions good. And I was gonna use 16g even for the 18g just to simplify. Can't imagine that going with a thicker gauge wire would be a bad thing.

Oh I know exactly which one you're talking about. It's in my watched list now. Just wondering if all wire is the same quality or is there something to steer clear of. That's way too much wire for what I need but so far seems like the cheapest option.

[nvrbdn]

Right, you have a lot of the main stuff done by having the dash wired already. That is really nice to be that far ahead. I was basically trying to diagnose building a complete harness from scratch with new everything. And if I were to build that way, if I am doing everything new I would also use new connectors. I was really just interested what the difference would be as a cost savings, but as I started pricing, it didn't seem to be one.

[rikubot]

If you buy new it's probably more to build yourself. Close to factory correct anyway. Those connectors are ridiculous. And honestly the factory stuff is probably far more sketchy than these do-it-yourself kits. A buddy did his C10 with a Painless kit I believe it worked great for him.

[rikubot]

@nbrbdn, saw this on eBay. Crazy!

[rikubot]

I was able to find some wiring for a good price. 10ft of 10 different colors.

https://rover.ebay.com/rover/0/0/0?mpre=https%3A%2F%2Fwww.ebay.com%2Fulk%2Fitm%2F292747196593

[nvrbdn]

As long as you don't have to wire too much, that isn't bad for the wire. We did a 37 Plymouth for a friend and used a painless wire harness to do this car { http://www.dodgecharger.com/forum/index.php/topic,114672.0.html }  and it worked really well. On that bulkhead connector, I bought all of those contacts and replaced them in my connector. My car kept dieing while driving and I found out the connectors were arcing. I was lucky because it was starting to melt the bulkhead connector. I hard wired the main feed wire so there wasn't a chance to arc there. and replaced all the other connections. That's why I felt it was probably smart what doctor4766 did. The only difference he could have done to look more correct is to drill out each connector in the bulkhead and run the wires right through it. That way it would look factory and be hard wired.

[Nacho-RT74]

@nbrbdn, saw this on eBay. Crazy!

everything will depend how correct you want to car or just make it "useable" without care about correctness

Do you really need the firewall piece ? can be found cheaper. The engine side conectors are on $15 rate each at megapartsusa.com I guess they have also the firewall conector. But what firewall conectors you really need ? wiper conector is hard to be beat. Engine harness uses to be the damaged one. Forwardd lighting harness plug uses to be in good conditions too. Except if tab retainers are broken.

Terminals are as mentioned cheaper around.

gaskets are avaialble straight from manufacturer detroitmuscletechnologies.com. I think megapartsusa also have them

wires... Do you actually REALLY need all of them?

[Nacho-RT74]

they have everything on the pic you posted

https://www.megapartsusa.com/products.asp?cat=749

the total of the plugs and gaskets... there you have the set you pictured but terminals in $127 ( plus shipping ). $70 less

and once again, get the terminals from an electric supplier. They should get also some other automotive plugs to the rest of the car

someother terminals used around call MOLEX... pin kind ( cluster gets those ), not the Packard 56 ones. Turning switch is a diff one too which I can't recall the name.

[Nacho-RT74]

terminals and insulators/plugs... single, two way ( T shaped, very tipical on our cars ), 3 ways, 4 ways ( isn't this the one for the console on 2nd gens ? ), 6 ways ( rear harness uses to use that one at kickpanel )

http://www.texasindustrialelectric.com/_packard_terminals.asp

is just an example... many more on the web

Editing

more plugs/housings/insulators

one of them the tipically used on A/C plugs for the blower output ( 3 ways )

http://terminalsupplyco.com/Store/Default.aspx?CAT=DEL010010

[Nacho-RT74]

more.... 5, 10, 25, 50, 100 packs:

https://www.repairconnector.com/packard-56-terminals-and-housings/

[Nacho-RT74]

isn't this the one for 2nd gen turning switch ? ( except 70 which is the same than 3rd gen, molex )

http://terminalsupplyco.com/Store/Product.aspx?pc=12191819

[nvrbdn]

Thanks for posting that Nacho. This will be a good reference for finding all these connectors.

[rikubot]

Ditto NBD, thanks a ton for the ton of info Nacho. I believe that is the terminal for the turn signal switch.

I don't really care to stay 100% factory correct. I'd rather my car be safe and work better. I'd like to kind of stay close though.

What do you guys think of that eBay wire? I don't know if I'll ever use all of the colors but for $20 shipped that's in my price range. I'll look around for something more specific, maybe somewhere where I can individually pick what colors (with or without tracers). I think between that and the sites Nacho Posted I will have enough resources to pull from. I will need some heat shrink rubber for some spots and some of the proper tape. I'll probably start with the a/c switch harness. Super simple. I will also need the three way switch for the blower. I'd like to get the map light and ignition time delay harness figured out as well. My car has the remnants of the Light Package and I'd like to put it back that way.

[Nacho-RT74]

the supliers I posted carries also wires in colors

sockets and wires:

http://www.oemsurplus911.com/