No fuel getting to my carb

[b5blue]

  With the fill tube in front the tank can trap air if the car is jacked up in rear or nose down up front. Not a factor for OP's issue. Is this carb. insulated from intake? I just can't see having to constantly shoot fuel to start any carb. motor, something is being overlooked. 

[green69rt]

You mentioned the vapor separation canister.  Have you changed it recently?  There was a time (years ago) when these things were not being made correctly.  The return nozzle in the canister is supposed to have a restriction orifice in it.  Something like a 0.050 orifice.  A while back someone was making them with no orifice!  It would starve a carb for gas because most of the fuel was being returned to the tank, especially at low RPM.  A simple test would be to run a hose from the return line into a gas can and run the engine.  A big flow of gas may mean the orifice is missing.  It should only trickle out.  This might also give some indication if you fuel pump is weak.

[doctor4766]

Just pull the rod. It'll take you 10 minutes to establish whether that's the problem.

[cdr]

 With the fill tube in front the tank can trap air if the car is jacked up in rear or nose down up front. Not a factor for OP's issue. Is this carb. insulated from intake? I just can't see having to constantly shoot fuel to start any carb. motor, something is being overlooked.  

I said that is not related to his problem, BUT he mentioned about filling up the tank problem, the cure is to drill a 1/4 hole into the filler tube, on the top side of it just to the inside of the fill tube sealing ring at the fuel tank, it solves filling issues & puking fuel out the cap & vent when the fuel in the tank get warm & expands. Mark the rubber seal location on the filler tube, remove tube, figure in the thickness of the rubber seal & drill the hole in the top side of tube as close to the sealing area that the rubber seal seals against.

He still needs to check the vent, what would happen if the tank had a vacuum on it sitting overnight

[c00nhunterjoe]

Ive yet to see a worn pushrod cause fuel to exit the carb when it sits for extended periods of time.

[BSB67]

Agreed, but her could have two things going on.

[c00nhunterjoe]

Agreed, but her could have two things going on.

Very true.

[flyinlow]

After driving pop the hood and put a window fan or two near the car to cool the carb/intake/engine as fast as possible. This should help post drive evaporation. See how it starts later. 

[Sixt8Chrgr]

Check the vent to make sure the tank IS venting

What is a good way to do this? When I fill up my tank I can only get about 12 gallons in the tank I am assuming due to a trapped air bubble. I had this same problem with my boat and stuck an air hose in the tank and blew air in the tank which worked. I tried the same thing in my Charger tank and really not sure it worked. So what should I do to confirm my tank is vented?

The little steel line that hooks to the filler neck inside the trunk, make sure it is not plugged up, but where that vent is would not affect filling up the tank, that is another issue. I do have a fix for that.

Checked this today and it is not plugged up.

[Sixt8Chrgr]

Rain here again tomorrow, so can't do much...unfortunately.

[Sixt8Chrgr]

Changed the fuel pump push rod, problem solved.

[doctor4766]

Changed the fuel pump push rod, problem solved.

Nice work

[c00nhunterjoe]

Was the old one worn down? Im still not following how a fuel pump pushrod is causing a carb to lose its prime and not run until primed but then runs great afterwords. Still thinking there is more then 1 concern going on here.

Edited: i see the other post where the rod was worn. Still doesnt explain the hard start you are still having. May have other concerns still.

[doctor4766]

Was the old one worn down? Im still not following how a fuel pump pushrod is causing a carb to lose its prime and not run until primed but then runs great afterwords. Still thinking there is more then 1 concern going on here.

Edited: i see the other post where the rod was worn. Still doesnt explain the hard start you are still having. May have other concerns still.

Lack of fuel pressure to top up the bowl as he's idling into his parking location?

I know when my rod failed I had to keep the revs up or the car would starve of fuel and stall.
Was ok once I hit the freeway but it didn't take long once I was off that that the car was starting to splutter

[Sixt8Chrgr]

Was the old one worn down? Im still not following how a fuel pump pushrod is causing a carb to lose its prime and not run until primed but then runs great afterwords. Still thinking there is more then 1 concern going on here.

Edited: i see the other post where the rod was worn. Still doesnt explain the hard start you are still having. May have other concerns still.

The check valve in the accelerator bore may be leaking? I tore the carb apart and checked the valve and it seemed to be ok? I agree. Seems like the carb should have fuel in the bore for a few days after the car is sitting. I am going to check it out today and see if it will fire up easier than it did yesterday. Yesterday, it turned over more than what it should had before firing. Like it had to get fuel pumped up to the carb.

I still wonder if the vapor separator is faulty?

[c00nhunterjoe]

Was the old one worn down? Im still not following how a fuel pump pushrod is causing a carb to lose its prime and not run until primed but then runs great afterwords. Still thinking there is more then 1 concern going on here.

Edited: i see the other post where the rod was worn. Still doesnt explain the hard start you are still having. May have other concerns still.

Lack of fuel pressure to top up the bowl as he's idling into his parking location?

I know when my rod failed I had to keep the revs up or the car would starve of fuel and stall.
Was ok once I hit the freeway but it didn't take long once I was off that that the car was starting to splutter

He said it runs great once he dumped gas in the carb to get it started cold in the morning and had no other fuel issues until it sat overnight.

[c00nhunterjoe]

Was the old one worn down? Im still not following how a fuel pump pushrod is causing a carb to lose its prime and not run until primed but then runs great afterwords. Still thinking there is more then 1 concern going on here.

Edited: i see the other post where the rod was worn. Still doesnt explain the hard start you are still having. May have other concerns still.

The check valve in the accelerator bore may be leaking? I tore the carb apart and checked the valve and it seemed to be ok? I agree. Seems like the carb should have fuel in the bore for a few days after the car is sitting. I am going to check it out today and see if it will fire up easier than it did yesterday. Yesterday, it turned over more than what it should had before firing. Like it had to get fuel pumped up to the carb.

I still wonder if the vapor separator is faulty?

Its not uncommon for the fuel to evaporate quicker with the ethanol blends, but you may still have a boiling issue on top of that.

[Sixt8Chrgr]

Was the old one worn down? Im still not following how a fuel pump pushrod is causing a carb to lose its prime and not run until primed but then runs great afterwords. Still thinking there is more then 1 concern going on here.

Edited: i see the other post where the rod was worn. Still doesnt explain the hard start you are still having. May have other concerns still.

The check valve in the accelerator bore may be leaking? I tore the carb apart and checked the valve and it seemed to be ok? I agree. Seems like the carb should have fuel in the bore for a few days after the car is sitting. I am going to check it out today and see if it will fire up easier than it did yesterday. Yesterday, it turned over more than what it should had before firing. Like it had to get fuel pumped up to the carb.

I still wonder if the vapor separator is faulty?

Its not uncommon for the fuel to evaporate quicker with the ethanol blends, but you may still have a boiling issue on top of that.

I don't burn Ethanol

[c00nhunterjoe]

You have 100% ethanol free fuel in your area? Lucky you. Lol. Best i can get is the 10% blends here. Does not effect any of my street cars though. A simple jet adjustment when it 1st came out and ive been good to go.

[Sixt8Chrgr]

Yes we have ethanol free fuel. We use to have 93 octane ethanol free, but now the best we can get is 90 octane.

[c00nhunterjoe]

Yes we have ethanol free fuel. We use to have 93 octane ethanol free, but now the best we can get is 90 octane.

Still better then most. Im not aware of any 93 ethanol free in my area. I just rejetted our cars to accomadate it and went on my merry way.

[Sixt8Chrgr]

I was running ethanol for several years and about a year ago changed over to non ethanol but giving up at least 3 points of octane. May be imagination, but seems my cars run a ton better on non ethanol. The fast idle chokes work better for sure. Now I have not changed the jets. Not sure whether to go up or down?

[alfaitalia]

Yes we have ethanol free fuel. We use to have 93 octane ethanol free, but now the best we can get is 90 octane.

Still better then most. Im not aware of any 93 ethanol free in my area. I just rejetted our cars to accomadate it and went on my merry way.

Luckily we don't have to worry about that.....yet. We have about 5% on 95 octane fuels....and none at all in 97 and up fuel. Don't forget our ratings are different to yours...we don't use rocket fuel!! Our 95 is about the same as your 90 or 91 and our 97 is about 92 or 93 on your scales. Both commonly available. Shell and others regularly stock 99 or even 100 (about 94 US rating).....only any use if you have a car that can take advantage of it though....otherwise you are literally burning money!

[Q5XX29]

Changed the fuel pump push rod, problem solved.

How much was your fuel pump pushrod worn down? I've been having a similar issue with what seems like weak fuel pressure causing a weak pressurization of the fuel system until I get it running, and then its OK, for BOTH my Daytona and my 1970 Charger 500. I just pulled the fuel pump pushrod out, and it measured at 3.06", and I see that it should be 3.22".  That is quite a measurable, visible shortage, but is that enough wear to cause THAT much of a problem? I hope so- easy and cheap fix!

Also, what brand of fuel pump pushrod are people using with success?

[XH29N0G]

I replaced a faulty one with a Comp Cams PN 4626 about 3000 miles ago.  So far so good.  I never had to replace the original one.  The one I replaced was after a rebuild.  I do not know if there are specific brands that are better or worse.