1969 B-Body Dash Restoration

[green69rt]

Getting there. All the crevices and cutouts are making this a bit grueling. I plan to get it all the way down to metal on the visible surfaces then do a quick sandblast to rough up the surface for primer. The back side I'll probably just scuff really well and prime.

When I did mine, I sprayed the inside with Eastwoods Internal Frame Coating.  No one was going to see it and I wanted something in every little crevice (specially that area behind the top dash pad) so corrosion would not be a problem.  The stuff is really runny.  If you use it protect everything!

[69bfan]

In my opinion, the most correct dash pads for the 69 to 70 B-Bodies are coming from ABC Moparts.  They are steel core using the original cores, so you will need a good usable core or get hit for a core charge.  They are the correct length as some of the other reproductions are too short.  They have the same profile as the originals.  The only thing different is the grain pattern is not 100% correct, but you would have to really know your cars to know the differences.  https://abcmoparts.com/t/dash-pad-dodge-charger-plymouth-gtx-b-body

[rikubot]

@green69rt, I'll have to look into it. I've seen some pretty rusty dash frames. Luckily mine had a good amount of that red primer so I might be able to get away with just a spray.

@69bfan, I gave that one a look but it was sold out. I found this one on eBay and unlike most of the others it has decent up close pics. The grain looks acceptable. What do you think?

https://rover.ebay.com/rover/0/0/0?mpre=https%3A%2F%2Fwww.ebay.com%2Fulk%2Fitm%2F112949600304

[rikubot]

I would like to replace the dash speaker while I've got it out. Not trying to go overboard but I'd like something that sounds nice. Suggestions appreciated  

I found an affordable option on Summit:

https://www.summitracing.com/parts/res-d-412?seid=srese1&cm_mmc=pla-google-_-shopping-_-srese1-_-retrosound&gclid=CjwKCAjw_MnmBRAoEiwAPRRWW0ZTZ0bHscN1qjDkAlf4FBpSUewlhsNjDJPleWUoNTGParokI-BCkRoCYqkQAvD_BwE

[green69rt]

I would like to replace the dash speaker while I've got it out. Not trying to go overboard but I'd like something that sounds nice. Suggestions appreciated  

I found an affordable option on Summit:

https://www.summitracing.com/parts/res-d-412?seid=srese1&cm_mmc=pla-google-_-shopping-_-srese1-_-retrosound&gclid=CjwKCAjw_MnmBRAoEiwAPRRWW0ZTZ0bHscN1qjDkAlf4FBpSUewlhsNjDJPleWUoNTGParokI-BCkRoCYqkQAvD_BwE

I got mine from Classic Industries.  Looks fine.  As far as fit....the screws in back fit the hole fine.  They needed a tiny bit of massaging of the hole to get them in.  The biggest problem was the slot across the back of the pad.  Whoever made the pad let some of the cushion material get into the slot.  That materiel had to be removed before the pad would seat correctly on the dash flange.  Also the cover material was wrapped into that slot.  I, also, had to cut that out.  Once all the excess material was gone if fit just fine.  The fit at the ends will also need a little work.  I did a quick test fit against the A pillar facia and I think I can make it look good.  Picture attached.  That is one of the original facia that neeed a color change.

You can also see the texture.

[rikubot]

The texture looks great. Sad to hear about all the modification you had to do. You'd think for 300+ dollars it would fit like a dream. What are you going to do about the fit at the ends? I'm going to see if I can find a coupon for Classic and see how much that would be shipped.

[rikubot]

I got a little more done. My buddy and I got the missing tab welded on. I'm having issues making the cluster/bezel fit flush. The factor- drilled holes in the remaining upper tab had the bezel sitting about 1/4 inch from the underside of the top of the dash (see pics). I had him weld up the hole so I can re-drill them and hopefully get the bezel more flush. There's a thin piece by the radio that has some give but a previous owner had broken an brazed back together. I might be able to use that to move things around a little bit in an attempt to get things to line up a little better and hopefully don't re-break it.

[TexasStroker]

Coming along nicely!  That dash was in really good shape prior to the work commencing imo...rarely see that!

[rikubot]

Coming along nicely!  That dash was in really good shape prior to the work commencing imo...rarely see that!

Thanks! It has very little rust on it. It does have quite a few holes drilled into it and that poor braze job but other than that it's in really nice shape.

Also I should mention that I have re-faced the gauges and re-painted the bezels before I started disassembling the dash so it was quite a bit more rough than it looks now. I'll see if I can find a "before" picture.

[rikubot]

Top is what I pulled out of my dash. Guy cut some wood up and (very poorly) wired in some different gauges. Bottom is the cluster I pulled from a wrecked '68 and a nice guy on here traded me the '68 faceplate for a '69. The gauges all worked and I've since added a tic-toc-tac and a solid state voltage regulator.

[green69rt]

The texture looks great. Sad to hear about all the modification you had to do. You'd think for 300+ dollars it would fit like a dream. What are you going to do about the fit at the ends? I'm going to see if I can find a coupon for Classic and see how much that would be shipped.

Haven't worked much on the ends yet, just enough to see if I could get them to work.  The fascia fits over the end of the pad and the new pad is just a tiny bit puffier than the original so I'll have to trim out the inside edge of the fascia to make it side all the way on.  Doesn't seem like a big deal.  Picture below, it shows a little tab sticking out that makes it hard to get it over the pad.

[rikubot]

It doesn't look too bad at all even with the small gap. I'm guessing that tab was put there to hold it tight on the pad. Are those the original A-pillar mouldings?

[rikubot]

Checked the pad gaps on a '68 satellite. I'm pretty sure it's not the original stuff but I found this interesting. I didn't pop the door to see if the mouldings were bolted on correctly.

[rikubot]

Checking out the alignment of the pads and faceplates. The A/C pad needs to go. It's warped bad and I'm converting to non-a/c stuff.

[green69rt]

It doesn't look too bad at all even with the small gap. I'm guessing that tab was put there to hold it tight on the pad. Are those the original A-pillar mouldings?

Yeah, original to the car.  Looks like I can "persuade" the moulding to close the gap, just haven't tried yet.

PM sent.

[Dino]

Checking out the alignment of the pads and faceplates. The A/C pad needs to go. It's warped bad and I'm converting to non-a/c stuff.

What's the plan for the warped pad?   

[rikubot]

@Dino, I was hoping to replace it. As it sits it's the ugliest part of my dash other than the top pad but I plan to replace that one.

[rikubot]

I noticed that the plastic bezel pieces that replace theA/C  vents on a non-A/C car leave a half inch gap on the outer sides. Did the dash frames for A/C cars have bigger holes?? Really hoping I don't have to add material to close up the holes. I'd love to see some pics from the non-A/C cars out there. A close up seems to be hard to come by on the internet.

[green69rt]

I noticed that the plastic bezel pieces that replace theA/C  vents on a non-A/C car leave a half inch gap on the outer sides. Did the dash frames for A/C cars have bigger holes?? Really hoping I don't have to add material to close up the holes. I'd love to see some pics from the non-A/C cars out there. A close up seems to be hard to come by on the internet.

Non AC cars had no holes, at all, at the ends.

[rikubot]

Thanks Mitch, looks like I'm making some plates now. I did find a pic of a non-a/c rallye dash.

[green69rt]

Can't help it, have to brag a little.  My dash restoration.....

http://www.dodgecharger.com/forum/index.php/topic,127894.msg1591275.html#msg1591275

[rikubot]

Can't help it, have to brag a little.  My dash restoration.....

http://www.dodgecharger.com/forum/index.php/topic,127894.msg1591275.html#msg1591275

I have a feeling this is going to be very humbling...

[rikubot]

Great thread and great work. I noticed that your wiper motor looks exactly like mine with the black motor cover instead of the zinc. I also noticed that you said a satin paint was too glossy for the dash. That's concerning as I planned to shoot mine with Eastwood's Rat Rod Black https://www.eastwood.com/2k-aero-spray-rat-rod-satin-black-47968.html?SRCCODE=PLA00010&gclid=CjwKCAjwq-TmBRBdEiwAaO1en3gSAYGFUXXe8lTFtQ-f4NP3QbKM8lcuala8Xvsi6n03hTnGhziI2BoCxNgQAvD_BwE

The Dakota digital stuff is going to look great in there. I was also very impressed with the way you converted the non ac pad to the vented version. The finish looks great. Brag away sir!

For the holes, I've started on a plate that will bolt on using the screws that hold the face plates on. It would look cleaner to weld them in and smooth them but I don't have access to a welder so that's more of an excuse to make them bolts ons. And I can reverse it if I ever decide to convert back to A/C.

[rikubot]

This one came out pretty good. It's not perfect but I think the edge that shows will look okay under the bezel. I used some shelves cut out of one of my buddies storage boxes. I'm gonna try to use the same screws that the bezels and heater vents use to attach to the frame.

[rikubot]

Got a couple of the bezels that cover the vent holes. I'll strip and repaint and recently found out about a paint pen that looks really close to chrome.