will this solve my problem?

[mikepmcs]

I put the wilwood dynalite front discs on my car yesterday and naturally have poor braking due to the drum M/C set up.  I've read all the threads and i get confused sometimes.
I just want to make sure i have this right,
do i need a new m/c only or do i need the combo, m/c and booster pack like this one??
http://store.summitracing.com/partdetail.asp?autofilter=1&part=SSB%2DA28144&view=32&N=4294922533+4294908110+4294908099+4294840053+4294925082+0

then i understand i need a 10# pressure valve for the rear drum?
then what about a proportioning valve, as i don't see that i would need that?
somebody straighten me out please, my brakes suck

original drum car power brakes.  now, disc front drum rear
thanks
v/r
Mike

[mikepmcs]

 
anyone, i p#@$ someone off?

[Just 6T9 CHGR]

I used the SSBC kit.  I used the master supplied (which is an A body disc brake unit)  Installed their adjustible prop valve to modulate the psi to the rears & thats it.

Definately need a disc brake master.....

The one pictured is a Chevy piece....

www.ssbc.com

[mikepmcs]

That's funny, click the link you sent me, i got a charge(r) out of that. so i'll get a disc brake M/C tomorrow from the local parts store and then just need to get the wilwood 10# relief for the rear and i should be all set then? or maybe just the prop valve?
i'll get the prop if i need it after i install the rear relief, if it locks up and all.
thanks
Mike

[68ChargerJMP]

Hey Mike, I see u got your brakes. Good deal. I tried to wrap them up the best I could, I was hoping they made it unhurt.

[68ChargerJMP]

Its www.stainlesssteelbrakes.com by the way. ssbc.com is a baseball club website.

[bull]

You need a disc brake master, the kind with two different sized reservoirs. The proportioning valve is for adjusting the front to rear brake ratio, and there's a procedure to follow for finding the correct adjustment. Generally it's about 70%-30% front to rear. The 10 psi residual pressure valve goes between the proportioning valve and the rear brake line, or you could replace the rear wheel cylinders with cylinders that have cup expanders. Wilwood explains it better than I: "With drum brakes, a ten pound valve is used to compensate for return spring tension in the drums." http://www.wilwood.com/Products/006-MasterCylinders/010-RPV/index.asp

Here's a good explanation for everything: http://www.ecihotrodbrakes.com/brake_facts.html

[mikepmcs]

Hey Mike, I see u got your brakes. Good deal. I tried to wrap them up the best I could, I was hoping they made it unhurt.

Mike
Thanks a ton, you sure made it easy on me by putting most of it together I just greased up the bearings again and both sides went on sweet.


Bull, thanks for the info and the links, i'm squared away now on what i need to do.

oops , thanks 6t9 as well.

Mike

[mikepmcs]

ok, got the prop valve and 10# pressure valve from summit and i looked at this picture http://www.ecihotrodbrakes.com/images/pic02_brakefacts.gif and just want to make sure before i do anything(when i get my new master cylinder friday) that i have this right.  the 10# relief and the prop valve both go on the rear lines.  10# relief close to the m/c and the prop vlv after that towards the rear brakes.  i guess my question is can i put both the 10# relief and the prop vlv up in the engine compartment.  why can't i screw the 10# relief right in to the m/c((rear brake side) then i would only have to plum the prop valve in.  is that possible.  i know there is a thread on here i saw a while ago that showed a picture of the prop valve install on someone's beast but i can't find it. still looking though.
thanks
v/r
Mike

[mikepmcs]

ok just found this post and i like bulls idea so bull can you tell me the exact location on that picture you posted.  i'm guessing front rail near the master cylinder? and that line above is the rear line coming from the master cylinder to the 10#relief and then prop valve and out to the rear? am i way off on that?
thanks
v/r
Mike
http://www.dodgecharger.com/forum/index.php/topic,10824.msg127320.html#msg127320

[BrianShaughnessy]

I just used a used Cordoba combo valve with my 11" rear drums after doing the front disk convert.
I had some problems with low pedal and or rear lockup.
I replaced the 15/16" rear cylinders with 7/8" cylinders (37236) and now I got all kinds of pedal and it stops true and I didn't notice any lockup (so far).   


I'm still looking for "affordable"  front viper calipers to swap those on in place of the singles.

[mikepmcs]

I just used a used Cordoba combo valve with my 11" rear drums after doing the front disk convert.
I had some problems with low pedal and or rear lockup.
I replaced the 15/16" rear cylinders with 7/8" cylinders (37236) and now I got all kinds of pedal and it stops true and I didn't notice any lockup (so far).   


I'm still looking for "affordable"  front viper calipers to swap those on in place of the singles.

Brian
thanks, i already got the summit and wilwood stuff, so i'll try this setup for now and provide feedback when i'm done.
is that viper stuff dual disc or something?
v/r
Mike

[BrianShaughnessy]

is that viper stuff dual disc or something?
v/r
Mike

4 pistons.    Will work on 11.75" rotors with some ANDYF brackets.


Good luck with your brakes!

[bull]

I think our cars' distribution block includes a 2 psi check valve (or thereabouts) inside it so you shouldn't need the 2 psi residual pressure valve shown in this picture. I'm not sure why they are showing the residual pressure valve ahead of the proportioning valve in this graphic but maybe the order doesn't matter. I always thought the res valve was supposed to be behind the prop valve.

[mikepmcs]

well all the hardware is on and bled the system and still have crappy brakes.  gotta pump the pedal to get them even to work.  at speed one pump and then the second pump you got some brake(not a lot though) SO now i'm thinking brake booster might be the problem.  i put a vac gauge on it and read 4-6 pounds at idle, 16# at 2grand continuous.  so i go to the tee on the manifold to check the vac out of there. long story short with all lines unplugged and capped i still read 4-6 at idle and 16 continuous at 2 grand.  so the booster isn't making a difference as far as i can tell(like it's bad or something).  any other way to check this booster.  am i doing something wrong or what?
oh yeah the pedal does seem to pump up when the car is off, leading me to believe once again booster might be the problem, somebody sanity check me please. i saw bull put a post up on  another thread that said throw power booster away and i'll be happy, any way i can use the one i have and like plug it or mod it in some way but not hook it up to the manifold? am i a numbskull for even thinking that? why cant i just plug the line and run it like it was a manual?
thanks
v/r
MIke

[Chryco Psycho]

sounds like you simply do not have enough vacuum for the booster to operate properly , you can eliminate the booster & go to manual brakes , you will probably love the feel of them & have no vacuum issues 

[mikepmcs]

Thanks, i'm leaning that way on the booster deal.

[BrianShaughnessy]

What cam are you running to only get that little vacuum?  Initial timing?  (OK,  I understand a auto car idling in gear will affect this).   I run manual brakes myself but I got 8 or 9" or so out of a 509 cam before.   Now I get about 14" with the 528 solid.

Either way,   some people are giving up on vacuum assist power brakes and going for the hydraboost system.   I believe NYCMille has done that with great success.
I've seen people with vacuum pumps and reserve cans and all kinda stuff trying to make their power brakes work.... I'm just not sure if it all works that great.

I'm happy with the balance I have for now...   if I can find some Viper calipers to upgrade I'll do that next.    

[mikepmcs]

What cam are you running to only get that little vacuum?  Initial timing?  (OK,  I understand a auto car idling in gear will affect this).   I run manual brakes myself but I got 8 or 9" or so out of a 509 cam before.   Now I get about 14" with the 528 solid.

Brian
you get 14" at idle?  You know, I got a little cam in there(wanna say it's a mopar purple with .484/.484) but even i thought it was a little low yesterday when it was idling at4-6"
(and i wasn't in gear). looks like i need to be doing some vacuum leak checks and timing stuff.  the car sounds great but it definitely isn't at full power.  i've been messing with suspension and brakes for a while and just haven't got around to the tuning yet.   but now it appears that i might have a healthy vacuum leak somewhere.  i'll time it first using an article i found on this site.
thanks for getting me thinking
v/r
Mike