My stock fan blade just broke

[metallicareload99]

Any recommendations on a fan besides going electric?

I think you had close to the best set up possible and wasn't it working well until it exploded?  Get a new fan blade assembly and a shroud?    It would be hard for an electric setup to top that, assuming the clutch is still good

My Fitech has 2 fan controls in it.  I'm using the stock Contour resistor and the Fitech, to give me both fans running on low or high speed, at whatever temps I want them to.  Have to check, but I think I have the low speed to come on around 186 or 190 and the high speed to kick on around 195 or 205???  160 degree thermostat.  120 amp alternator, 70 or 80 amp Maxi fuse (can't recall) feeding 2 40amp relays, one for each fan, just like stock.  I have access to the factory wiring diagram for the Contour (and Focus), so I copied what Ford did and used the Fitech to trigger the 2 speeds.  

Fascinating, I have FiTech also and would love to see how you hooked it up!?  I didn't think there was a good way to work with the contour resistor without the aftermarket module.  I looked into the contour fans and it never occurred to me to hook the FiTech to the control unit

It seems like your cooling system is getting the job done especially in 90º heat, but it does seem odd how hard your fans are working.  Especially because it looks like you got a good radiator and manifolds shouldn't be allowing as much heat into the engine bay as headers

[dual fours]

Fans are either pusher (in front of radiator) or puller (behind radiator) type. I put an extra fan in front before I headed to Carlisle, I just knew she would act up because she was giving me trouble while the National Street Rod Association was in town. It was hot, temps. over 100° with the sun on the metal surfaces temp. were 140°. My educated guess would be to have the fan in front of the radiator then the radiant heat would not draw over the fans motor and it may last longer. I have a illuminated  switch under the dash to turn it on and off, it worked great. I do use the stock temperature gauge plus an under dash add on temp. gauge, I like to have a back up. Oh a clutch fan and no shroud, never had one since '77. The fan sits on the left side and covers half of the radiator. I'm happy. I watched the temp. in stop and go traffic on those very hot days then when it climbed up I flipped the switch. I could see when the thermostat opened (engine temp. went down) and closed (engine temp. went up). The fan keep it in the happy zone. Oh and when I got to Carlisle out about a mile from the  K street entrance (hell a turtle could have beat me to the grounds, stop and go stop and go) and parked on the infield and shut her down, you could watch the temp. climb up over 220°, so I started the fan and down it went.

[igozumn]

Fascinating, I have FiTech also and would love to see how you hooked it up!?  I didn't think there was a good way to work with the contour resistor without the aftermarket module.  I looked into the contour fans and it never occurred to me to hook the FiTech to the control unit

Think of it like the stock ballast resistor on the firewall.  There are 2 ways to get power to the ignition coil.  One, through the resistor in the run position (and less than 12v), and the other bypassing the ballast in the start position (for 12v+).    Now, in this scenario, replace the ballast with the stock Contour fan resistor and replace the ignition coil with electric fans and replace the ignition switch with the Fitech.  

I have the Fitech 30004, which has 2 fan controls (fan 1 and fan 2) and an A/C kick.  Whenever the fan(s) control is on, or the A/C is on (no working A/C at the moment), the Fitech bumps up the idle a bit to compensate for the additional electrical load.

I put 2 relays into the system, just like stock.  One powers up the fans through the resistor when Fan 1 is turned on by the Fitech at whatever temp I set it at.  It also turns them off at whatever temp I set it at.  The second relay bypasses the fan resistor (ballast) when Fan 2 is turned on by the Fitech, allowing full system voltage to the fans at whatever temps, blah blah blah.  

If your Fitech only has 1 fan control, then you can do it 2 different ways.  You can wire it so the fans are on high when triggered.  Or, you can run it through the resistor (low speed) and put in an override switch to bypass the resistor if needed and turn them on high.  If you only run it on high, then one relay is fine.  If you run it on low with an override, then you'd need 2 relays.

I've been meaning to do a Fitech/car update video on youtube.  I need to pull the driveshaft and trans for some maintenance.  May have to wait until that is done.

[igozumn]

What I would love, is if Fitech would/could integrate a PWM control for fans into their EFI system.  Something that would allow the removal of the typical aftermarket PWM probe sensor shoved into the radiator core, or from having to find a spot for a 3rd temp sensor (Fitech sensor for EFI, plus factory sensor, plus PWM sensor.....).

[JR]

I completely forgot that the Fitech has fan control. That is convenient.

I just ordered an HHR fan. I'll make a separate thread posting the update.

My Hayden clutch fan with shroud just let the engine almost overheat last night after getting caught in traffic for ten minutes.  I'm not going to miss it.

EDIT:

Just got the HHR fan mocked up. I turned the fan on after the engine had warmed up to 190, and the car idled in the driveway for 20 minutes between 206- 210. It never got warmer.

It took 8 min for the stock fan clutch to overheat the engine last night in cooler weather.

It's looking great so far.

[igozumn]