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Flaming River Steering Coupler

Started by GreenMachine, May 07, 2006, 06:49:35 PM

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GreenMachine

   I just installed the steering coupler from Flaming River today. It made a world of difference, however, my steering column wasn't lining up correctly with the original setup so I had more play in my old coupler than usual. I don't know what the problem was, maybe K member, maybe wrong steering column, I do have a Frankenstein car (my TTI's don't even fit like they should). I figured the Flaming River steering coupler was the best solution, it was expensive but made my car alot more fun to drive.
  The shaft does have to be cut and drilled though, I followed the instructions, cut and drilled. Then I found out I should have made my own measurements, because it made the column too short. Oh well, so I have an extra hole in my sheering shaft. I am still very happy with it. Just thought I'd share in case any of you were considering doing this.
If it ain't broke, fix it 'till it is.

doctorpimp

Wow, that does look good.
It suprises me that they didn't have that style from the factory...
Oh wait, I imagine the OEM is cheaper  :P
'73 Coupe, 470, Keisler 5spd, 3.55 SG; Petty Blue; Hideaway Headlights.

www.cardomain.com/ride/2119216

Anders

I'm in the process of upgrading my steering. Ordered a steering box from firmfeel and now I'm thinking of replacing the coupler with Reilly's  or flamíng river's joint type replacement coupler. If I understood correctly, this requires cutting and drilling the shaft? Any thoughts about this joint coupler, is it worth the money? All the comments are greatly appreciated :2thumbs:
68 Charger

TripleBlackGator

Cutting? How much and why? I don't like to do anything that I can't reverse. I am doing my steering box, column, and probably steering wheel.
Malicious, vindictive, spiteful, cynical, pessimistic, sarcastic, & antagonistic. And those are my good traits!

Nacho-RT74

Quote from: GreenMachine on May 07, 2006, 06:49:35 PM
I had more play in my old coupler than usual. I don't know what the problem was

Mostly sure you had this setup with spring broken and only did need to get the new kit ( between $8 and $20 depending on dealer ):
Venezuelan RT 74 400 4bbl, 727, 8.75 3.23 open. Now stroked with 440 crank and 3.55 SG. Here is the History and how is actually: http://www.dodgecharger.com/forum/index.php/topic,7603.0/all.html
http://www.dodgecharger.com/forum/index.php/topic,25060.0.html

TripleBlackGator

Hey Nacho! What is the part I am pointing to with an arrow? I took my coupler apart and found a small piece of metal and thought it was scrap. Is it important? I was going to grease my assembly up and re-install it. Is the assembly still available from the dealer? So many questions huh?
Malicious, vindictive, spiteful, cynical, pessimistic, sarcastic, & antagonistic. And those are my good traits!

chargerman68

i bought the same kit from fredrick dodge on ebay,my problem was i cant get the cover to clip dowm onto the coupler,it just wont stay on :shruggy:
1968 CHARGER R/T CLONELOOKING FOR ANOTHER PROJECT 69-70 CHARGER SHELL

Nacho-RT74

thats a pin that keeps the shoes inside the coupler cup. The coupler cup does have a hole to fit that pin ( 19-15-23 on diagram )



Quote from: chargerman68 on September 24, 2007, 10:57:43 AM
i bought the same kit from fredrick dodge on ebay,my problem was i cant get the cover to clip dowm onto the coupler,it just wont stay on :shruggy:

yeah is hard to keep on place without the factory tool to crimp on to coupler reliefs... it is some tricky
Venezuelan RT 74 400 4bbl, 727, 8.75 3.23 open. Now stroked with 440 crank and 3.55 SG. Here is the History and how is actually: http://www.dodgecharger.com/forum/index.php/topic,7603.0/all.html
http://www.dodgecharger.com/forum/index.php/topic,25060.0.html

Nacho-RT74

BTW kit needs to be greased to save from worn both asemblies ( cup and shoes )
Venezuelan RT 74 400 4bbl, 727, 8.75 3.23 open. Now stroked with 440 crank and 3.55 SG. Here is the History and how is actually: http://www.dodgecharger.com/forum/index.php/topic,7603.0/all.html
http://www.dodgecharger.com/forum/index.php/topic,25060.0.html

chargerman68

thanks i am trying to make some kind on retaining pin cause i lost the pin for the coupler :slap:
1968 CHARGER R/T CLONELOOKING FOR ANOTHER PROJECT 69-70 CHARGER SHELL

Nacho-RT74

welll anyway with or without pin, if the shoes are even close to touch the pin, then steering column is bad assemblied or bad fit down the dash LOL, so the pin is necesarry maybe for safety ??? but always can be damaged if shoes sits close to pin
Venezuelan RT 74 400 4bbl, 727, 8.75 3.23 open. Now stroked with 440 crank and 3.55 SG. Here is the History and how is actually: http://www.dodgecharger.com/forum/index.php/topic,7603.0/all.html
http://www.dodgecharger.com/forum/index.php/topic,25060.0.html

doctorpimp

Quote from: Anders on September 23, 2007, 02:52:37 PM
I'm in the process of upgrading my steering. Ordered a steering box from firmfeel and now I'm thinking of replacing the coupler with Reilly's or flamíng river's joint type replacement coupler. If I understood correctly, this requires cutting and drilling the shaft? Any thoughts about this joint coupler, is it worth the money? All the comments are greatly appreciated :2thumbs:
It appears to work very well, lots of guys use them for Dodge trucks to upgrade worn out coupling bodys.  Also it's a U joint with torrington bearings, much better than the factory set-up.
I bought one for my car, but it doesn't fit.  73 + cars also have a rag joint incorporated with the coupling.  The Flaming river coupler is too short to replace both.
I bought mine from Summit a year ago and just tried to install it last month :(
I had to use the factory coupler...
Anyone want to buy a Flaming River one?
'73 Coupe, 470, Keisler 5spd, 3.55 SG; Petty Blue; Hideaway Headlights.

www.cardomain.com/ride/2119216

DukesofHoward

Quote from: chargerman68 on September 24, 2007, 10:57:43 AM
i bought the same kit from fredrick dodge on ebay,my problem was i cant get the cover to clip dowm onto the coupler,it just wont stay on :shruggy:

I had the same problem. Called a friend over and he held it while I staked the tabs.

Hemidog

I've got the Flaming river coupler, replaced a worn idler arm, and i thightened the power steering today, i've got about ZERO play in my steering, It's Great!  :2thumbs:

Blown68Coronet

Hey Paul I'd be interested in the flaminfg river piece.

doctorpimp

'73 Coupe, 470, Keisler 5spd, 3.55 SG; Petty Blue; Hideaway Headlights.

www.cardomain.com/ride/2119216

caddman

flaming river has a coupler that appears to be longer (part number R1505P).
does anyone know if this one will work on the 73 column?  my coupler and rag joint are shot.  rag joint is outragously priced.

thanks

caddman

doctorpimp

I think it will.
It's made for the power to non-power conversion using the same column.
Since you have to cut the column anyway, that other one may be the way to go.
'73 Coupe, 470, Keisler 5spd, 3.55 SG; Petty Blue; Hideaway Headlights.

www.cardomain.com/ride/2119216

caddman

the R1505P is not for the conversion (according to there website anyway) it is the one just for use with power steering.
i really would like to find some dimensions on this thing before i buy it.

http://www.flamingriver.com/index.cfm/page/ptype=product/product_id=213/category_id=116/home_id=82/mode=prod/prd213.htm

caddman

doctorpimp

This is the one you possibly could use:

'73 Coupe, 470, Keisler 5spd, 3.55 SG; Petty Blue; Hideaway Headlights.

www.cardomain.com/ride/2119216

caddman

guess i will call flaming river and see what they have to say about it.
just seems to me the joint should be at the column end not the steering box end.

doctorpimp

Actually, I think the joint should be at the steering box end, and take the place of the coupler AND rag joint.
'73 Coupe, 470, Keisler 5spd, 3.55 SG; Petty Blue; Hideaway Headlights.

www.cardomain.com/ride/2119216

caddman

I emailed Flaming River, they informed me that part number R1506P is the correct replacement for the 73 charger with power steering.  i'm placing my order this week, probably from Summit Racing.  wish me luck!

caddman

doctorpimp

Quote from: caddman on November 01, 2007, 09:22:15 AM
I emailed Flaming River, they informed me that part number R1506P is the correct replacement for the 73 charger with power steering.  i'm placing my order this week, probably from Summit Racing.  wish me luck!

caddman
Don't order that one!  That is the one I have and it doesn't fit!!!

That's the one pictured in the photo above in a 68 Charger - totally different than the '73 + B bodies.  I belive that the column may be the same length, but with the rag joint the Flaming River 1506P is about 1" too short for our application.

Have them confirm their info, most times manufacturer's lump the late B in with the other 73 & 74 Mopars.  They don't know about our insulated K frames etc...

If you still want to get the 1506P, I have one for sale...
'73 Coupe, 470, Keisler 5spd, 3.55 SG; Petty Blue; Hideaway Headlights.

www.cardomain.com/ride/2119216

caddman

Quote from: doctorpimp on November 01, 2007, 02:55:47 PM
Quote from: caddman on November 01, 2007, 09:22:15 AM
I emailed Flaming River, they informed me that part number R1506P is the correct replacement for the 73 charger with power steering.  i'm placing my order this week, probably from Summit Racing.  wish me luck!

caddman
Don't order that one!  That is the one I have and it doesn't fit!!!

That's the one pictured in the photo above in a 68 Charger - totally different than the '73 + B bodies.  I belive that the column may be the same length, but with the rag joint the Flaming River 1506P is about 1" too short for our application.

Have them confirm their info, most times manufacturer's lump the late B in with the other 73 & 74 Mopars.  They don't know about our insulated K frames etc...

If you still want to get the 1506P, I have one for sale...

i was some what affraid that was the case, so i hadn't placed the order yet.  and if it is too short then no i don't want to buy it. lol.
i'm guessing that there is no other way to rebuild my column other than factory replacement parts then?  (i don't like the factory setup, it makes me marvel at the fact that it works.)  thanks for the heads up though.  i think i will be ordering the factory replacement parts instead.  thanks friend.

caddman

doctorpimp

No problem!

I was like you, not too fond of the factory coupling.
In the end, the coupling rebuild kit was only $10.  But if you need a new rag joint too, that may be expensive and hard to find new.

You still may be able to use the 1505P joint from Flaming River.  Because it is longer than the 1506P.
Email them again and ask about the dimensions for the 1505.  You need the end to be 5/8 x 36c splines.  They should be able to help...
Hopefully.
:cheers:
'73 Coupe, 470, Keisler 5spd, 3.55 SG; Petty Blue; Hideaway Headlights.

www.cardomain.com/ride/2119216

caddman

i ordered the rebuild kit and the rag joint last night from Brads NOS parts (not the most user friendly site out there but i got it.)
i will definately use the rag joint (90 bucks, i better use it).  if the rebuild doesn't go well i will build a joint of my own (i built my own engine and tranny mounts, i think i can handle it.)

caddman

kamkuda

It looks really good. :icon_smile_cool:

I put one in as well, I was worried about cutting my column to switch from Power to Manual steering.  It looks great and works well.


caddman

Quote from: caddman on November 02, 2007, 09:18:43 AM
i ordered the rebuild kit and the rag joint last night from Brads NOS parts (not the most user friendly site out there but i got it.)
i will definately use the rag joint (90 bucks, i better use it).  if the rebuild doesn't go well i will build a joint of my own (i built my own engine and tranny mounts, i think i can handle it.)

caddman

well i recieved my parts on thursday and rebuilt the lower column on friday.  it was one of the easiest things i have ever done on that car and she steers like a dream now (should have done this back in 1989 when i got the car).  well its done now, one more thing marked off the list.

caddman

doctorpimp

'73 Coupe, 470, Keisler 5spd, 3.55 SG; Petty Blue; Hideaway Headlights.

www.cardomain.com/ride/2119216

hutch

I am looking for this exact same setup. I think my stock coupler has way too much play in it.  I dont like the rubber boot that attaches to the steering gear.
In the words of Colonel Sanders,,,   "I'm too drunk,,, to taste this chicken"

Hemidog

Quote from: hutch on November 12, 2007, 11:02:03 AM
I am looking for this exact same setup. I think my stock coupler has way too much play in it.  I dont like the rubber boot that attaches to the steering gear.

Do It!  :2thumbs:

doctorpimp

I have one for sale if you want it.

Send me a PM...
'73 Coupe, 470, Keisler 5spd, 3.55 SG; Petty Blue; Hideaway Headlights.

www.cardomain.com/ride/2119216

charger_mike75

I have one of those couplers too, But I lost the instructions.    :eek2:  Do you think you could post it up for me?

T16

Ok.. I´m kinda lost here :scratchchin:
So none of these Flaming River couplers can be mounted on a 3rd gen Charger..?

To bad they dont have the measurements on the website..

T16

Quote from: T16 on September 30, 2008, 01:17:02 PM
Ok.. I´m kinda lost here :scratchchin:
So none of these Flaming River couplers can be mounted on a 3rd gen Charger..?

To bad they dont have the measurements on the website..

Anyone..?  :popcrn:

charger_mike75

not including the u-joint, I measure 11 1/2"

Steve P.

I have replaced the rag joint with a $6.00 rag joint disc from Auto Zone. They have them in the HELP section. I even did one on a tractor with one. Just drilled out the factory rivets and used stove bolts and nylocks.


Replacing the slide joint with the solid FR joint works well. Just keep in mind that with the FR joint it cannot collapse in a wreck.  That is the reason for the slide box coupler.

I personally like the rag joint. Less vibration and it takes about 3 minutes to replace it. And guys, one thing to keep in mind is that these joints probably have NEVER been changed before.. Everything wears out in time and use...


:Twocents:
Steve P.
Holiday, Florida

T16



Here´s how I did it  :icon_smile_big:
Borgeson U-joint Part No. 012164    $79

Chatt69chgr

I was thinking seriously about using one of these on my 69 with power steering.  I decided not to after reading an article in a Mopar Magazine that explained that the mopar steering coupler is designed to allow the steering shaft to move about 1/2 inch inside the coupler.  This is to allow for body flex, etc.  If you don't have any play in the steering column, then you will either end up breaking the plastic tabs in the part of the steering column that is designed to collapse in a wreck or push out the upper bearing below the steering wheel.  This is what I read.  I don't have any personal knowledge to verify what this article said.  But it appears to make sense.

charger Downunder

Quote from: GreenMachine on May 07, 2006, 06:49:35 PM
   I just installed the steering coupler from Flaming River today. It made a world of difference, however, my steering column wasn't lining up correctly with the original setup so I had more play in my old coupler than usual. I don't know what the problem was, maybe K member, maybe wrong steering column, I do have a Frankenstein car (my TTI's don't even fit like they should). I figured the Flaming River steering coupler was the best solution, it was expensive but made my car alot more fun to drive.
  The shaft does have to be cut and drilled though, I followed the instructions, cut and drilled. Then I found out I should have made my own measurements, because it made the column too short. Oh well, so I have an extra hole in my sheering shaft. I am still very happy with it. Just thought I'd share in case any of you were considering doing this.
This flaming river piece what size is the other end where the steering shaft comes in.
It looks like its round,and is held together by the rollpin.Is that safe.
[/quote]

T16

Quote from: charger Downunder on April 13, 2009, 01:04:50 AM

This flaming river piece what size is the other end where the steering shaft comes in.


3/4" shaft used on my -72 power steering

T16

Quote from: Chatt69chgr on April 12, 2009, 07:34:17 PM
I was thinking seriously about using one of these on my 69 with power steering.  I decided not to after reading an article in a Mopar Magazine that explained that the mopar steering coupler is designed to allow the steering shaft to move about 1/2 inch inside the coupler.  This is to allow for body flex, etc.  If you don't have any play in the steering column, then you will either end up breaking the plastic tabs in the part of the steering column that is designed to collapse in a wreck or push out the upper bearing below the steering wheel.  This is what I read.  I don't have any personal knowledge to verify what this article said.  But it appears to make sense.

Note also that the input shaft on the power steering box moves a little in and out as you turn the shaft.
To bad they didn´t take care of the real problem instead.. body flex  :scratchchin:

Well well.. I´ll give this a try,, havn´t read any problems so far with a solid coupler

firebird77clone

great thread.  I've been looking for the steering coupler, and all i've found is the slide box rebuild, and couldn't figure out what it was, now I know.

I tore apart my rag joint to put in the new one I had ordered, and it's the wrong part.  Also, the rag joint I pulled apart was a home made job, and they welded the bolt heads to the dog bones ( maybe they didn't have the L head phillips? ).

I need a complete coupling kit, but no one seems to make them!  found a NOS rubber disc on ebay for $200 !!  no way!!

Got to be a complete kit out there somewhere, else another year/make/model will fit?

oldcarnut


red79

Quote from: firebird77clone on May 30, 2012, 03:26:03 PM
great thread.  I've been looking for the steering coupler, and all i've found is the slide box rebuild, and couldn't figure out what it was, now I know.

I tore apart my rag joint to put in the new one I had ordered, and it's the wrong part.  Also, the rag joint I pulled apart was a home made job, and they welded the bolt heads to the dog bones ( maybe they didn't have the L head phillips? ).

I need a complete coupling kit, but no one seems to make them!  found a NOS rubber disc on ebay for $200 !!  no way!!

Got to be a complete kit out there somewhere, else another year/make/model will fit?

ma mopar doesn't make the 73-era rubber biscuit isolators anymore, that's why the remaining few are so pricey. bouchillon performance makes a machined replacement out of aluminum (not on their website, but call and they'll sell it to you for $100), but you'll need to find a new set of dog bones and hardware because it only replaces the rubber.

BrianShaughnessy

Quote from: Chatt69chgr on April 12, 2009, 07:34:17 PM
I was thinking seriously about using one of these on my 69 with power steering.  I decided not to after reading an article in a Mopar Magazine that explained that the mopar steering coupler is designed to allow the steering shaft to move about 1/2 inch inside the coupler.  This is to allow for body flex, etc.  If you don't have any play in the steering column, then you will either end up breaking the plastic tabs in the part of the steering column that is designed to collapse in a wreck or push out the upper bearing below the steering wheel.  This is what I read.  I don't have any personal knowledge to verify what this article said.  But it appears to make sense.


Yes you are correct...   trust me I've heard E-booger (mopar action) give this same basic dissertation many times just about every time he sees somebody install one of these flaming river type deals in their cars.

Rebuild kits for the stock setup are available.   Drill a hole for a grease zerk and fill it up with long fiber grease and it's good to go.   Yeah,  getting the top on the stock setup sux.     There's a factory clamp deal that was or possibly still is available to help.   
Black Betty:  1969 Charger R/T - X9 440 six pack, TKO600 5 speed, 3.73 Dana 60.
Sinnamon:  1969 Charger R/T - T5 440, 727, 3.23 8 3/4 high school sweetheart.

idahogrumpy

I have a flaming river coupler on my 73. Call them they will help you. I believe I ordered a universal one and cut it down to fit. Been on there for years. I also replaced the rubber biscuits between k frame and frame with aluminum biscuits kit from Mancini, made a big difference. 
Too much to say
Too much to do
Too tired to get it done
Too stubborn to give up
GRUMPY
Modified 73 440 Charger, 03 Intrepid SXT, 02 Neon and 2001 Ram 1500 .

4aThrill

Just installed mine too, it says to cut inch and a half off, I cut an inch and quarter off, should of just went with a inch but all is good. measured the coupler on the shaft to the steering gear before drilling the hole. suggest to do this too otherwise you will end up with two holes on the steering column. looking good once I am done tweaking it on how I want it I will post a pic, planning on too Saturday.  :Twocents:

randy73

Not to hi-jack, but do not buy the coupler from e-bay.

Ordered mine 10 days ago and was marked shipped the next day, still waiting and no response to my emails.

his id is 'gonefishing69', guess he really did!!!

Edit: day 13 and no coupler and no response!!

alfe

Quote from: randy73 on June 29, 2012, 09:27:20 AM
Not to hi-jack, but do not buy the coupler from e-bay.

Ordered mine 10 days ago and was marked shipped the next day, still waiting and no response to my emails.

his id is 'gonefishing69', guess he really did!!!

Edit: day 13 and no coupler and no response!!
Ordered mine to from gonefishing on e-bay took  seven days to Norway,And that is fast,shipping to norway is arond 14 days turn-around

randy73

Quote from: alfe on July 24, 2012, 03:50:24 PM
Quote from: randy73 on June 29, 2012, 09:27:20 AM
Not to hi-jack, but do not buy the coupler from e-bay.

Ordered mine 10 days ago and was marked shipped the next day, still waiting and no response to my emails.

his id is 'gonefishing69', guess he really did!!!

Edit: day 13 and no coupler and no response!!
Ordered mine to from gonefishing on e-bay took  seven days to Norway,And that is fast,shipping to norway is arond 14 days turn-around

You are lucky, took 26 days and he sent it on the day ebay gave him to respond to my complaint,I also sent many emails and messages with no answer and when he sent it, just said sorry for the delay.

alfe

cut 1 inches and a 1/2 .My column is telescopic,(plastic pin is broken or whatever so hold it togheter )almost zero play :2thumbs: