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HELP WITH DELEMA 1969 DODGE CHARGER ROTEN FLOOR ,FRAME

Started by werner, September 19, 2018, 03:40:48 PM

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werner

CANDAIAN CAR FROM ONTARIO

OWNED SINCE 2002, MY BUDDY OWNED SINCE 1980

PAID 7500 CDN FOR IT IN 2002, 383 AUTO FLOOR SHIFT( ORIGINAL 318 CAR)

OVER THE YEARS PUT MOSER 60 REAR END, THEN TKO 600 5 SPD THEN IN 2009 528 MOPAR/RAY BARTON HEMI

FRAME IN BACK WAS BAD WHEN I BOUGHT NOW REALLY BAD

FRAMES RAILS, TRUCK FLOOR EXTENSIONS ETC, TORSION CROSS MEMBER ROTTEN NEAR INNER ROCKERS, YEARS AGOSURE INNER AND OUTER WHEEL HOUSES. QUATRES ARE GOOD. WERE REPLACE

I HAVE 30K IN POWER TRAIN ALONE NOT INCLUDING ORIGINAL PURCHASE PRICE

NOT SURE IF WORTH FIXING ? WHAT AM I LOOKING AT ?

10, 20 30 k ? NOT LOOKIN FOR SHOW CAR FINISHES UNDERNEATH I RELIZE ONCE YOU GET CUTTING WHERE DO YOU STOP ?

IF I PUT 20 K IN IS THE CAR WORYTH 50 K ?

NOT A RICH GUY SO WOLD HAVE TO GO ON LINE OF CREDIT

PLEASE GIVE ME YOUR OPINIONS GOOD OR BAD

ALWAYS HOPPED ACORN WOULD BRING OUT A NEW BODY LIKE THEY DID FOR FOR AND CHEVY

OPTIONS DONOR CAR POSSIBLY ? 

THANKS WERNER
1969 dodeg charger, 528 hemi ,Tko 5spd.

JB400

Sell the Hemi drive train, and rebuild your car. Option 2 is just buy a few pieces here and there and fix it.

Challenger340

OK so.....
you knew the frame and rails were BAD back in 2002 when you bought it ?
and in the last 16 years....
you still purchased and installed 30K worth of Ray Barton 528 HEMI, TKO 600 5 Spd, and Moser 60 Rear End ?

I kinda doubt you are going to replace the Rear Frame Rails, Torsion Cross Member, Trunk Pans etc. anywhere near $20K Canadian ? Are you talking CND or US Dollars ?
Simply because as you already know, once you get into an Eastern rust belt Car ? they rot from the inside OUT ! So don't be surprised if it's just a "one thing after another" downhill ride, making the "targeted" repair thing a moot point no matter show car or NOT !
NOT that they can't be restored, just not even close in the Budget mentioned.
Then again though...
I also doubt you are going to find anything in the way of a "solid" donor Car for the same $20K Canadian $ ? contemplated ?

IMO,
Sell off the drivetrain separately for as much as you can.
Sell Off/Part out as much of what's left of the Car for as much as you can.
ADD the above funds, to the $20K you were contemplating spending on it, and start looking for something else/start over(SOLID Car)







Only wimps wear Bowties !

RiverRaider

A lot would depend on how long you plan to keep the car and enjoy it.  If you are looking to fix and flip
and have to farm out some of the work it might be a bad move money wise.  You could keep your drivetrain
and sell the car as a project and search out a solid replacement to put your parts in and be ready to drive in spring.
Have you considered a G machine frame?  I don't know more than what I read on the website but it maybe
worth a look. http://www.schwartzperformance.com/mopar-b-body-chassis-full-frame/  Best of luck moving forward.
My first Charger was a Stock Car.

Challenger340

Quote from: RiverRaider on September 19, 2018, 06:49:00 PM
A lot would depend on how long you plan to keep the car and enjoy it.  If you are looking to fix and flip
and have to farm out some of the work it might be a bad move money wise.  You could keep your drivetrain
and sell the car as a project and search out a solid replacement to put your parts in and be ready to drive in spring.
Have you considered a G machine frame?  I don't know more than what I read on the website but it maybe
worth a look. http://www.schwartzperformance.com/mopar-b-body-chassis-full-frame/  Best of luck moving forward.

Might be an option ?

But from the website:
The only required welding is of four mounting plates onto the original torsion bar cross member
The only required drilling is of two bolt-holes in the rear frame rails

$9,598. U.S. Dollars
plus I assume Freight and Taxes ?
Installation Labor ?
and both the Cross-member & Rear Rails being "issues" with the candidate car ? close investigation may be warranted for suitability ?
Only wimps wear Bowties !

JR

70 Charger RT top bananna /68 Charger RT triple green

68 charger freak

I would fix it, you would probably loose money if it was parted out. If you do it yourself  it should be less then 10k cnd. If you pay a shop to do it 15-20k . Take it to a few body shops that are familiar with restoration (yes there is some in the GTA)get them to give you a quote on the structural repairs. if the quotes are to much then buy the parts  they recommend changing and do it yourself. If the work is over your head, hire a good body tech and get him to do it at your place.
68 charger, pro touring build ,mini tub,528 wedge,magnum-xl 6 speed,rms alterkation,martz 4 link,moser 8.75,custom interior

70 sublime

Chargers are very easy to sell up here in Ontario
Pull the drive train out and list the rest as a rolling project and you would easy get $10 000 in less than a day or hold out for $15 000 might take you a week of emails

Put that sale money with your fix it money and you have a good chunk to buy a solid project you could swap your old drive train into

You will sell your car a lot faster than you will find the solid replacement car
Could take a year or two of checking kijiji every day but something will turn up and you have the cash to go at a moments notice  :2thumbs:
next project 70 Charger FJ5 green

Mytur Binsdirti


6pkrtse

I agree as mentioned above. Odd that you invested so much into the car over the years before you repaired what you knew what was wrong with it structurally when you bought it. Too late now. You are in to it too deep money wise. if it were mine I would fix what you have. Order some frame rails, trunk pans and trunk extensions, if needed & cut out the old. If you don't know how to fabricate get some buddies over that know how to weld. Not that hard to do just very time consuming & tedious. 
1963 Belvedere 413 Max Wedge
1970 Charger R/T S.E. 440 sixpack.
1970 Challenger R/T Drag Radial 528 Hemi
1970 Charger 500 S.E. 440 4 BBL
1970 Road Runner 383 4 BBL
1974 Chrysler New Yorker 440 4 BBL
1996 Dodge Ram 2500 V-10 488 cu in.
2004 Dodge Ram 3500 CTD Dually 6x6
2012 Challenger R/T Classic

58pwrwgn

  Are you the do it your self type. I put frame rails in mine. I didn't find it hard, but the first time doing something takes time. I used used rails, spilt trunk floors and extentions. I did it 6 years ago for $800. I used the goodmark stuff, but it takes work it make it fit nice

green69rt

As one that went thru something similar to you problem, here's what might happen.

Buy and replace rear frame rails then discover that the front or rear or both spring hangers are shot, replace those.
When cutting out the spring hangers you discover that the inner rockers are shot, get and install new rockers.
Whoops, find the bracing around front of rocker and TB brace are shot and maybe lower door pillars, and lock pillars are bad.
Taking out trunk floor you discover that the gas tank brace and the rear frame brace need repair.

Now that you'r into it really heavy, you start to wonder why all the rust?  Is it just normal weather or is something else going on?  Find out the rear window leaks causing the trunk floor corrosion.  Windshield leaks cause the front floor corrosion.

And don't forget all those little pieces that will need to be replaced with the floors.  Jack brackets, spare tire bracket, wire covers, parking brake guide, etc.

So, to start, you really need to do a really thorough inspection of everything, and think about how you are going to fix stuff.  Sometime you have to take more things apart than you are prepared for.  That trunk floor can be really pesky.  It ties into bumper braces, rear valance, rear frame cross brace, wheel wells, trunk floor extensions and more.

Now that I've put a big downer on you,  keep reading these posts and pick the one you want to follow.  I agree with those that say you cannot get the repairs made for $20K unless you do it yourself.  You a decent welder??