EFI - Trying to catch up

[Dino]

It's been a few years since I was planning all this so just making sure nothing has changed. Maybe better parts came out since then.

My original plan was to install a Holley Sniper #550-511, Tanks Inc TCR9A-T gas tank, GPA-4 fuel pump (GPA-2 would do for my stock block but for 10 bucks more I'm going with the 4), TAN-ORG fuel sending unit. I apparently bought two cork gaskets for the tank a long time ago as I just found them.

I want the Sniper to control the ignition so for that I was planning on the Holley Dual Sync distributor #565-203 and adapter #558-493.

The Sniper will go onto a dual plane '71 mopar intake. Apparently they seem to run fine on those but to be safe I'll install a spacer to effectively turn it into a single plane so the EFI ecu doesn't go bonkers. I think I have the space for it. If all else fails I'll try a Torker II but I'm not removing my shiny manifold if I don't have to!

Anything I'm missing?

[WHITE AND RED 69]

Add a tanks inc. fuel pump access panel to the list. Also get a good plan on your fuel line routing.

I don't know of the reliability of it but this just came out on the market. $1900 bucks and it includes the distributor and intake manifold. That's a fantastic deal. I've been thinking about pulling the trigger on it but the funds just aren't there for me yet.

https://www.edelbrock.com/pro-flo-4-efi-kit-for-big-block-chrysler-rb-413-426-440-engines-35910.html

[Dino]

That does look very interesting. I'm not sure if it's something I need for my car, but a nice option to consider nonetheless!

I was just thinking about creating access to the pump and sending unit, I'll get an access panel. 

As for fuel lines, I removed my 1/4 return line and bought a second 3/8 line to run along the 3/8 feed line.

[WHITE AND RED 69]

Also don't forget about a tank vent. Tanks inc. includes a rollover vent but I'm not a fan of having that inside the trunk as the smell gets pretty bad.

[Dino]

Oh right, forgot about that. I'd go bonkers if I'd still smell fuel after all that! Which one do you recommend?

[darbgnik]

For as easy as the tank got installed, I'm not sure I'd cut a hole in my nice new trunk floor for an access hole, but I can see the merit.

I ran the fuel pump power wire alongside the fuel sender wire, then put a quick connect on both wires just before they connect to the tank to allow for easy dropping.
I still have to order 2 of 3/8 fuel lines to replace the soft lines I ran already.

[JR]

I can't stress enough the importance of routing the fuel line away from heat sources. Heat gets picked up from the hotspots and sent into the fuel. In addition to underhood heat and the heat generated by the fuel pump itself.

Hot fuel causes captivation in the fuel pump. Which makes the pump run hot. Which causes more captivation. Which burns up your fuel pump.

Keep the line as cool as you can. I burned up my first fuel pump learning this lesson. Don't route the fuel line in the OE location. Routing it straight to the passenger side rear corner of the engine bay seems to be the coolest spot.

I'll add more later as I remember it, but this was one of the most important things I learned concerning reliability and longevity of components.

Oh, and another thing.

The rollover vent valve must be higher than the top of the filler neck. Or else your vent will fill with fuel and become useless.

 Other members may have different suggestions, but I mounted mine within the passenger sail panel. It was the only location that worked flawlessly. I haven't noticed any fuel odors emitting from it, but I'd also insulated the rear of the passenger compartment with plastic so no vapors or exhaust come in before the efi swap anyways, so I can't say how much fuel smell it emits.

Since I've done the swap, fuel smell out the exhaust and while sitting is completely gone. There's no gas smell at all.

[darbgnik]

I can't stress enough the importance of routing the fuel line away from heat sources. Heat gets picked up from the hotspots and sent into the fuel. In addition to underhood heat and the heat generated by the fuel pump itself.

Hot fuel causes captivation in the fuel pump. Which makes the pump run hot. Which causes more captivation. Which burns up your fuel pump.

Keep the line as cool as you can. I burned up my first fuel pump learning this lesson. Don't route the fuel line in the OE location. Routing it straight to the passenger side rear corner of the engine bay seems to be the coolest spot.

I'll add more later as I remember it, but this was one of the most important things I learned concerning reliability and longevity of components.

Oh, and another thing.

The rollover vent valve must be higher than the top of the filler neck. Or else your vent will fill with fuel and become useless.

 Other members may have different suggestions, but I mounted mine within the passenger sail panel. It was the only location that worked flawlessly. I haven't noticed any fuel odors emitting from it, but I'd also insulated the rear of the passenger compartment with plastic so no vapors or exhaust come in before the efi swap anyways, so I can't say how much fuel smell it emits.

Since I've done the swap, fuel smell out the exhaust and while sitting is completely gone. There's no gas smell at all.

I routed my fuel lines this way as well, still have some thermal socks to slide on where it passes by the header....

[WHITE AND RED 69]

Oh right, forgot about that. I'd go bonkers if I'd still smell fuel after all that! Which one do you recommend?

It's not the cheapest route but I use a II Much remote style vent mounted right above the passenger wheel tub. It is almost lined up with the gas cap and has the filter mounted outside of the car so no smell is vented inside. I used to have a different style mounted through the floor but went to the other style a few years ago to get it higher up. 

https://www.iimuch.com/collections/fuel-differential-vents/products/fuelvent2dm

[Dino]

It's worth it if it doesn't smell.   

JR I remember you running your lines to the corner and I'll be doing the same thing.   

[flyinlow]

I would recommend Russel or equal PTFE lines . AN6 size. The PTFE does not let fuel vapor permeate and a longer life. I found the PTFE lines easer to work with. Routed thru heat shields in engine compartment . Went thru the front right wheel well for about 18 inches under a fabricated steel shield to stay away from the headers. (3rd gen., a little different) I second the access door in the trunk floor. I could change the fuel pump on the road if I have to....dam, I just jinxed myself.