Engine build, what to re-use, what to replace, and when to spend more

[Paul G]

My 512 build is still at the machine shop. He is installing the rotating assembly for me. When I get it home I will do the rest of the assembly. To go over what my intentions are with this engine; it is a street engine, will see track days on special occasions maybe once a year.

It will be 512 CI, mild hydraulic roller cam under .240 duration, under .550 lift, Trick Flow PP240 heads, Eddy Performer RPM dual plane intake, long tube headers, 850 carb. It will make good power. 

I am going over what to buy next. I want to close the bottom up first. There are many options for everything. Because it was a motor home engine I need a new oil pan so I am going to start there. Mancini has a kit with a Milodon 7 quart kick out pan, Melling HV pump, 3/8 pick up, windage tray, gaskets and bolts. Cost $416. Milodon and Melling are good names. I could spend less. But I think spending more here is wise, right?

How about the balancer? 440 source has a nice SFI one for $150. Balancers can range from $70 stock cheapies to over $400. What is enough for my build?
http://store.440source.com/Fluid-damper-SFI-Certified-Chrome-New/productinfo/200-1023/

Timing set too has many options. I need a Torrington bearing and cam button. Summit house brand is $92 and looks like a nice set, or I can spend several hundred.  https://www.summitracing.com/parts/sum-g6606r-b

For instance, timing cover? re paint mine or buy new. Recondition the old electronic distributor or buy new?


I am trying to figure out what is strong enough for my build, without being over kill. What did you guys do? 

[chargerbr549]

For the oil pan I would use the factory style 440 6 pack and Hemi oil pan, I am not positive how it fits the 3rd gen chassis but that would be my first choice if it fits.


http://store.440source.com/1970-71-Hemi-E-Body-6-Quart-Oil-Pan/productinfo/200-1123/

[cdr]

no to the 440 source Damper, I just had to change mine, went with a Power Bond sfi, 1970 6 pack oil pan, 3/8 pick up from Mancini.

[c00nhunterjoe]

Ati damper on all of mine. Never had a failure. Also dont skimp on the chain and button, especially being a street driver.

[flyinlow]

I put a 7qt pan on initially . 7 1/4 inches deep. Never actually ground thru it, but removed it before I did. I think the 6qt Hemi  or Milodon that does not stick out below the K frame would be good. I have the Milodon road rally pan on now (1973). Works well. Your car is a 72 right?

What motor mounts are you going to use? Torque straps?

[303 Mopar]

Your engine sounds close to my build. BTW 440 hp and 530 tq at the wheels, so its a lot of fun.  Here are is the parts list on mine if it helps:
1975 440 block
Camshaft - Lunati 60312 Hyd Roller Duration @ .050 (Int/Exh): 231/239, Gross Valve Lift (Int/Exh): .535/.550, LSA/ICL: 110/106, RPM Range: 2200-6200
Cam Button - Comp 206
Timing chain - Lunati 94225
Roller Lifters - Lunati 72338-16
Rocker Arms - Comp Roller Set 1621-16
Springs - Comp 925
Heads - Edelbrock 60929
Pushrods - Comp 7774
Bronze Dist/oil pump drive - Mopar P3690875
Head Bolts - ARP 145-3606
Main Studs - ARP 140-5401
440 Source Stroker kit - 440.512.5060
Pistons - 5060 4R 4L
Piston Rings - CR6490-35
Rods - 7.1"
Main Bearings - Clevite MS1795V
Rod Bearings - Clevite CB743HN
Cam Bearings - Clevite SH876S
Oil Pan - Summit 440 6 pack deep pan
Oil Pan Gasket - Fel-Pro 1834
Valve Cover Gasket - Moroso 93055
Valley Pan Gasket set - Fel Pro 1215
T-stat - Milodon 180 high flow 16406
Plugs - Champion RC-12YC
Windage Tray - 440 source for stroker
Bore - 4.350
Stroke - 4.25
Head Gaskets - Fel Pro Perma Torque 8519-PT
Carb - Proform 850 Black Street Series 67314
Intake - Holley Street Dominator HLY-300-14
Water Pump/housing - Mancini High Volume Kit MRE6900KAH

[Midnight_Rider]

I am trying to figure out what is strong enough for my build, without being over kill.

Subscribing & following this thread, as I am in the same boat...

[Paul G]

I put a 7qt pan on initially . 7 1/4 inches deep. Never actually ground thru it, but removed it before I did. I think the 6qt Hemi  or Milodon that does not stick out below the K frame would be good. I have the Milodon road rally pan on now (1973). Works well. Your car is a 72 right?

What motor mounts are you going to use? Torque straps?

I want the 7qt oil pan for a couple of reasons. Holding more oil reduces the possibility of sucking the pan dry and starving the engine for oil, and in Phoenix it gets really HOT. More fluid in the systems is better. I have a 7qt pan on the 360 right now and it hangs low. Cant keep paint on it, but it has never gotten damaged, yet.  

I ordered a set of stock engine mounts from Classic Industries. Big and small block all used the same K frame up to 72. Already have a torque strap on the car. My 300 HP 360 pulled apart the driver side mount before.

Your engine sounds close to my build. BTW 440 hp and 530 tq at the wheels, so its a lot of fun.  Here are is the parts list on mine if it helps:

Our builds are very similar. Dwayne Porter specced a Comp cam for me. Going to be just a little more aggressive than yours and with 113 LSA. His suggestion was to use Howards lifters with it. I am probably going to use a Summit brand balancer, they get great reviews I have found. The 440 source one has fitment issues from what I have read online, it needs some honing to get it mounted. Thanks for posting up the parts. It helps.

BTW, your using a Proform 850 carb. How do you like it? How about tuning it?
I have been looking at the Quick Fuel 880 CFM,  SS-880-VS, vacuum secondary.

 

[justcruisin]

It has always puzzled me why guys want to go with a larger pan than the 6qt hemi pan in a low rpm street build because they think there going to suck the pan dry with a HV pump. The hemi pan fits great in the K frame and doesn't hang down past it. Add a windage tray and your good to go. Doesn't the bearing clearance have they major influence on flow. I spin mine to 6k - no problems ever.

[303 Mopar]

Your engine sounds close to my build. BTW 440 hp and 530 tq at the wheels, so its a lot of fun.  Here are is the parts list on mine if it helps:

Our builds are very similar. Dwayne Porter specced a Comp cam for me. Going to be just a little more aggressive than yours and with 113 LSA. His suggestion was to use Howards lifters with it. I am probably going to use a Summit brand balancer, they get great reviews I have found. The 440 source one has fitment issues from what I have read online, it needs some honing to get it mounted. Thanks for posting up the parts. It helps.

BTW, your using a Proform 850 carb. How do you like it? How about tuning it?
I have been looking at the Quick Fuel 880 CFM,  SS-880-VS, vacuum secondary.

I love the Proform carb, and it actually has the same parts as the Quick Fuel but costs less.  I had a Quick Fuel on my '71 Challenger about 5 years ago before they had a price increase. I would go with Proform.  Having said that, I have recently installed a Sniper EFI, lol.

[flyinlow]

[I want the 7qt oil pan for a couple of reasons. Holding more oil reduces the possibility of sucking the pan dry and starving the engine for oil, and in Phoenix it gets really HOT. More fluid in the systems is better. I have a 7qt pan on the 360 right now and it hangs low. Cant keep paint on it, but it has never gotten damaged, yet. 

More oil is usually better. After I took the low hanging 7 quart pan off and went back to the stock (4 quart+ filter) I added a header style oil cooler to add oil volume and help with the temps. It seams to work. Temps with the Milodon 7 quart pan have not got over 180* . Did not have a temp gauge with the stock pan.

I only sucked air once with the stock pan and a Melling HV pump. Was down on oil. I like having 7+ quarts better.

[c00nhunterjoe]

Most newer modern v8s are high capacity. Temps play a role as well and in a performance build on the street, it helps. Same goes with a transmission. Cant say ive ever heard of sucking a trans pan dry but when you add hp, you add capacity, for heat.

[Paul G]

How strong is the stock flexplate? The original one from the motor home engine is in great shape. I dont know if it is strong enough to reuse? Or if it will bolt up to the stroker crank and lock up converter?

[cdr]

How strong is the stock flexplate? The original one from the motor home engine is in great shape. I dont know if it is strong enough to reuse? Or if it will bolt up to the stroker crank and lock up converter?

It needs to be replaced, I run the 200-1084 SFI 440 source or you can run the 200-1040 without the SFI cert, same part

[justcruisin]

I agree, get a torque converter that uses the 7/16 bolts, the 5/16 bolts are too small for a stroker IMO.

[c00nhunterjoe]

Flexplates are not expensive. Dont cut corners when torque is involved.