73 Charger - Front Lights - All parts missing what parts do I need

[rollo1504]

Hey all!

Next chapter of my oddysee to get my Charger on the road again are the front lights....

Please provide some info or some help of the parts I need.

The actual situation in my Charger is that everything is missing or broken :-)

So I am leaning towards the frontlight harness of YearOne:
https://www.yearone.com/Product/chrysler-b-body/hu351b#prettyPhoto
-> Mmmh... The picture of the harness looks strange... could it be that this is only the "main"-frontlight harness but not the complete one? Looks to me that the connectors and wires which connect to the lights is NOT included?

Next thing I want to order of YearOne is 2 sets of these halogen lights
https://www.yearone.com/Product/chrysler-b-body/ah3688p
-> One set should then operate as Low-Beam and one set as High-Beam

Then I assume I also will need this headlight adjusting kit for all 4 lights correct?
https://www.yearone.com/Product/chrysler-b-body/mm444


This would be all parts I need to get the frontlights running?

I know I will also need to do the front light 2relay upgrade which is described in this topic:
http://www.dodgecharger.com/forum/index.php/topic,168.175.html

But first just to see if everything works I want to install the frontlights the STANDARD way and then I want to try to "implement" the relay upgrade....

Overview of parts needed:

- Working Dimmer Switch
- Working Headlight Switch
- Front Light Harness
- Headlight Adjusting Kit
- Halogen Lamps

Suggestions?

Thanks in advance!

Roland

PS: Still have the concern that the front light harness from YO is not the complete set I need......
PPS: Just forgot to mention that I live in Austria and ordering parts is very pricey and so the best "solution" for me to order all parts or as much parts as possible from one supplier....

[Nacho-RT74]

1--- for the lighting, just the harness is needed
2---adjusting kit... is just needed if you have misssed it. If you have missed it then you can get missed the headlight buckets too, because they go both together. Adjusting kit is what keeps the buckets in place
3---Halogen lamps. On 4 beams setup outer pair is 3 prongs to be used as low and highs, while inners are just highs and is 2 prongs. When turning lights on low beams, just turn on outers low filament. When switching on highs, all 4 beams are light up ( outers becomes on highs, but low fillament is switched off, just high filament is on )
5----headlight switch and dimmer switch... are your missed ?

most of those parts are available at any regular parts shop, no need to pay for the Year One high rated prices ( items and S&H cost they use to charge ). I think the only one you won't find on a regular parts shop is the harness which will be a restoration part, so will need to go to specific hobby parts like Year One.

[Nacho-RT74]

halogen headlights

Wagner H5006 and H5001 at Rockauto Wagner which is some of the best sealed beams headlights around ( less than $4.5 each )

floor dimmer switch, Standard DS68 at Rockauto

headlights switch Standard DS357  at Rockauto

adjusting screws
https://www.rockauto.com/es/catalog/dodge,1974,charger,6.6l+400cid+v8,1440890,body,headlamp+adjusting+screw,1388

sure don't have the springs, but once again I ask... don't you have the headlight buckets and headlight trim rings ? if not, they are available just used.

https://i.ebayimg.com/images/g/gzcAAOSwgQ9Vy5A8/s-l640.jpg

https://i.ebayimg.com/thumbs/images/g/5ykAAOSwX~dWjVJi/s-l225.jpg

about the relays, there are several ways to do it. I like the clean and hidden way. Installed my relays on kick panel area, BUT will need to get a nice conditions wiring system to make that, able to feed the relays at #30 terminal... Batt source ( which must be actually alternator, not batt to a correct ammeter reading and save from overload to it.

[Nacho-RT74]

this is what I made to hide the relays down the kick panel area, without cut any wire, just rerouting the existant wire coming out from floor dimmer switch up tpo the relay output and replacing the existant wire with a same color one between dimmer switch and relay to trigger them.

BUT bulkhead wiring from alt would need to be bypassed, running straight through the firewall up to ammeter and ammeter would need to be checked.

[rollo1504]

Hey Nacho!

Concerning the buckets and trim rings I will check it again.

Regarding the bulkhead bypass I have already installed YOUR fix mentioned in another thread where the bulkhead is bypassed and a bigger wire 8 ga is connected directly to ammeter. Ammeter is working fine as far as I could see.

BTW I have also renewed the whole engine bay harness AND the whole dash harness (Classic Industries). So all brand new cables and connectors as well as new OEM style fusebox and new bulkhead connector as the old one was already fried.

I do have a headlight and a dimmer switch but these are very old and not tested yet so if I need to order some parts I would also order those switches too just for safety reasons if the one or both old switches turn out to be damaged or broken.

Also thanks for the drawings of your relay upgrade which I also have read in another thread. For this I have a question: Is it possible to run the halogen headlights WITHOUT the relay upgrade? I dont want to switch them on very long. My intention is to do everything step by step, in other words. First I would try to get the headlights working in original style and if this is working as it should then I will proceed to implement the relay upgrade......

What do you think?

Thanks for the recommendation and links for all parts from Rockauto!!!

Concerning the Wagner Halogen Headlights is the result after all the same result as it is visible in this thread?
http://www.dodgecharger.com/forum/index.php/topic,132713.0.html

Thank you so much!

Roland

[Nacho-RT74]

Damn, is true, I remember your car now! Sorry sometimes I forgot who I have talked!

Switches... I trust better on the old stuff in working order than new replacements. In fact I replaced ONCE the rheostat of my old switch with another old donor. Soft cleaning over the spring an voila

I never have felt comfortably with the floor dimmer switch replacements available around and my old 44 year switch is still on car. Even the starter relay, which once dissasembled to clean up the points. So still the old 44 YO one.

I wouldn't run halogen headlamps through the stock switch. They draw more load than the stock incandescent ones. Better not just keep safer the points inside the switch but also the input wire ( black ) and the plug heat

[rollo1504]

Hey,
It is absolutely no problem if you could not remember my car for a moment... Don't worry! :-)

I am just happy to get some replies from someone of this forum which bring me step by step closer to my dream to drive my Charger with all things working....

Still long way to go as almost everything was broken or not set up correctly. On the other hand with the support of this great forum I have been able to fix many things already and keep going on.....

...
...
...

OK then I will also order some stock incandescent headlamps and will try to get them working after they work I will replace them with the halogen headlamps you recommended and will try to install the relay upgrade.

Concerning the headlight switch. I have 2 complete dashes hence 2 headlight switches. Will check them and to figure out which one is in better shape and clean it. Will also do it to the original dimmer switch.

Have not checked the buckets and trim rings yet but will do it very soon.

Have another question regarding a column shifter lever knob here:
http://www.dodgecharger.com/forum/index.php/topic,133199.0.html


Thank you!

[Nacho-RT74]

Original switches are really hard to beat! usually the only parts which comes really bad is the rheostat spring, being loosen or corroed with the "greenie stuff" but that's easy to clean using lemon juice and toothbrush ( them some soda to neutralize the acid ). The ceramic wheel where the spring is can be removed from the assembly. Somehow tricky but is doable and not hard.

the plug is also commom to get overheated on the main input wire ( thick black ) I'm talking about, so quite melted there.

[rollo1504]

Hey Nacho!

Please have a look at the pictures I took today from the back of my headlights...

I assume I have everything I need (buckets and trim rings) at the lights themselves but the harness right?

Thank you!

Roland

[Nacho-RT74]

Yeap, everything is there. You don't even need the adjusting kit mentioned, unless you want new pieces installed. You could get pieces separatelly and not the kit, reusing the spring, but honestly I can't see a reason to replace them.

I can see you have sealed beams on inner ( highs ) and screen with replaceable bulb on outers ( low and hign ). I like better sealed beams all around. Get them from rockauto.

Harness and relays for the halogen upgrade and done

[rollo1504]

Last dumb question Nacho.

These Wagner Beams... Do they have a bulb fix mounted inside or are these just housings.....?

Sorry for this question but it is the first time I get in touch with this headlight topic at all....

And after I have installed the relay upgrade I can go with the halogen H4 lamps right?

Thanks

[VegasCharger]

.....So I am leaning towards the frontlight harness of YearOne:
https://www.yearone.com/Product/chrysler-b-body/hu351b#prettyPhoto.....

$166.00 for a front light harness!!! A harness that looks like it only has a few wires according to the listing pic?? Maybe $10.00 worth of material??

No wonder I gave up on Year One many years ago. They are rip-off artists.

[Nacho-RT74]

Wagner beams are built in bulb. It calls Sealed beams just right for that. They are the original assembly from factory just that factory got regular incandescent kind and not halogens. Get the halogen ones and despite the standard incandescent. You won't regret it. They are the ones on my car.

If you look at your inner headlights they are sealed beams which is the factory setup. Your outer lights seems to be housing with replaceable bulbs

When I got my 74 previous owner installed Carello brand housings ( screens ) with replaceable bulbs. Allways got water into the housing. That area is prone to get all the enviroment elements and even grease. Wasn't designed to be waterproof or dustproof. You can see there is not anykind of boot to protect them. That's why sealed beams are the best for them.

Harness plug to the bulbs are made to those sealed beams, not the replaceable bulbs.

[rollo1504]

Hey!

Thanks for the detailed answers!

Will place an order, wait for the parts and if I get stuck somewhere I will be back with some more questions....

Thanks for helping me on my journey here...

Regards

[Nacho-RT74]

I'm noticing Wagner changed somehow the sealed beam design on back... can't tell if is better or not. Also increased the price a bit. Doesn't matter, you can get the Phillips or GE units too... anyone will work the same. PNs are the same

[rollo1504]

Thanks for the info Nacho...

The Wagner beams are already on their way....

We will see how they fit/work... Will provide feedback as soon as I know something new...

Cheers

Roland