front torsion bar anchor slips

[jlatessa]

This on a 70 Charger RT, changed to heavier bars this year to remedy what we thought was a sagging bar on driver's side.
Now sagging is apparent on that side again.

Figured bar anchor in rear cross member was the culprit, but today's inspection revealed movement in lower control arm asbly.

Looks like we can loosen the suspension to the point where you install a new bar and weld the perimeter of the front anchor.

Does this sound like a fix, or am I missing something?

Thanks, Joe

[green69rt]

This on a 70 Charger RT, changed to heavier bars this year to remedy what we thought was a sagging bar on driver's side.
Now sagging is apparent on that side again.

Figured bar anchor in rear cross member was the culprit, but today's inspection revealed movement in lower control arm asbly.

Looks like we can loosen the suspension to the point where you install a new bar and weld the perimeter of the front anchor.

Does this sound like a fix, or am I missing something?

Thanks, Joe

I don't think there is any welding to do on either the TB or its socket.   More likely problem is that the torsion bar adjuster bolts or the block has stripped threads, have you checked them out?

[jlatessa]

New bolts and blocks both sides when replacing bars.
I think I can see where the front bar anchor is moving in relation to where
it is in the lower control arm.

Cracked paint showing separation between the two parts.

I'm going to clean it up real well and mark it, then jounce the suspension and see if the mark moves.

Joe

edit, did not mean to do ANY welding on the bar, just the bar socket where it's pressed/welded to the lower control arm..

[Highbanked Hauler]

   Measure the distance between the head of the adjuster bolt to the block-adjuster in the lower control arm and  set  them even and drive the car and measure it again and see if there is a difference side to side. If there is a question change then anyway as the weight of the front of the car rides on those threads.

[jlatessa]

I am sure it's not the new block and/or bolts, that was my first suspicion when I replaced the old ones,
threads were not loose and could have been re-used if needed.

If you take a look at the area where the bar goes into the pivot area of the lower arm, you will
see where there is an area that could possibly slip .

Thanks, Joe

[70 sublime]

Here is a timely for sale ad with pictures of your parts in question

http://www.dodgecharger.com/forum/index.php/topic,133208.msg1654446/topicseen.html#new

So do you think the lever that the bolt pushes on to crank the torsion bar up and down on is slipping on the socket that the torsion bar goes into ?

If that part is slipping you would have to take the torsion bar out and turn it one notch and put back in to be able to tighten it up again after it had slipped

[70 sublime]

I am almost willing to bet $10 it is the area in the K frame the lower control arm bolts through is ripped out
Had to change K frame on my car for that reason

http://www.dodgecharger.com/forum/index.php/topic,122378.50.html

My reply #57 has some pictures

[jlatessa]

Isn't that lever and socket one piece?

Joe

[jlatessa]

According o the FSM, the hex socket is pressed/welded into the cast adjusting lever lever.
Wait, if it's cast, it would have to be some sort of interference fit ??

Joe

[jlatessa]

Sublime, I'll get a look at the K-frame tomorrow.

Thanks, Joe

[BLK 68 R/T]

Here is a timely for sale ad with pictures of your parts in question

http://www.dodgecharger.com/forum/index.php/topic,133208.msg1654446/topicseen.html#new

So do you think the lever that the bolt pushes on to crank the torsion bar up and down on is slipping on the socket that the torsion bar goes into ?

If that part is slipping you would have to take the torsion bar out and turn it one notch and put back in to be able to tighten it up again after it had slipped

These have NO provisions for sway bar mounting. Just thought I would point that out if you were thinking of purchasing them 

[jlatessa]

Thanks, I noticed that.

Joe

[jlatessa]

Well, it looks like we'll have to take it out so we can give it a good look at how the front socket and adjusting lever are mated.

See no problem with the rear socket and all frame parts including K-frame are solid, this was a S. Carolina car originally.

I'll get back here as soon as we undo everything.

Thanks everyone, Joe

[375instroke]

How does the cast/forged adjuster lever mate to the torsion bar socket?  I can't believe the mating surface is just a round press fit.  It's got to be a socket, or splines of some sort.  How are you going to weld in there without taking the control arm halves apart?  The socket itself does rotate in the control arm, if that's what you see the cracked paint on.  It's what rotates when you turn the adjuster.