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news to me

Started by nchrome, July 27, 2018, 09:37:51 AM

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nchrome

pulled the engine out of my so called matching #s car and found out the crank is drilled for a manual speed trans  Now with most of the dodges l ever worked on if it was an automatic the cranks weren't drilled for the pilot bearing.  Which leads me to believe this is not the original engine  :scratchchin:   So did they use these engines in both automatic and manual trans or am l rite that this is not  the original engine in my car. ::)

c00nhunterjoe

Lots of cranks were drilled. Hard to condemn it on that item alone. Does the vin on the block match the car? Do the date codes on the carb and pn on the intake match the production date of the car?

nchrome

Don't know for sure  will check that soon  Where is it on the carb?  :silly: l know that the others are under the distributor and on the back of the engine and on the bell housing not counting the casting date on the side of the block

c00nhunterjoe

No vin on carb. But you can decode the numbers on the carb to see if the year/cfm rating is correct for your engine.

John_Kunkel

Most forged cranks of the muscle car era were pilot drilled but not all were reamed to the final size (.937") for a bushing.
Pardon me but my karma just ran over your dogma.

Alaskan_TA

What year is the car?

nchrome

It's a 69 dodge charger 383/2 barrel auto trans column shift PB, PS, drums all the way around single exhaust bucket seats with buddy seat A/C cruse control

Challenger340

Quote from: nchrome on July 27, 2018, 02:33:32 PM
It's a 69 dodge charger 383/2 barrel auto trans column shift PB, PS, drums all the way around single exhaust bucket seats with buddy seat A/C cruse control

Should be a "machined" Pad on the passenger side middle of the Engine Block, right above the Oil Pan rail, where you will see the Vehicle VIN # stamped. Check it against your dash VIN.
Only wimps wear Bowties !

nchrome

l will check that tomorrow also while removing bell housing bolts four of them were not tight  :flame: the only bolts that were tight were the torque  converter bolts and the two main bolts of the bell housing   This also  is why l think either the engine or the trans is not the original to the car :scratchchin:

c00nhunterjoe

Ive seen bolts come loose. Could be a balance issue, driveshaft, anything. Hard to say for sure without being there. Start by verifying all of the numbers.

John_Kunkel

The top 4 bolts are hard to get to if you access them from the top, often under-torqued. Best to access them from under the car with a long extension and swivel socket.
Pardon me but my karma just ran over your dogma.

c00nhunterjoe

I lay across the top and use a wrench, but i run scatter shields because i abuse mine and like my ankles.