22 or 24 foot enclosed trailer for a 1968 Charger

[krigel]

Looking to purchase an enclosed trailer for my 1968. Is 22 feet enough? Is 24 worth it? Brands to stay away from/brands you like?

[DixieRestoParts]

I think 24' is a good size. Gives you some extra room for parts, luggage, etc. I have an 2008 Interstate brand (Loadrunner), had LOTS of trouble with it, poor dealer support. A buddy of mine bought one from South Georgia (I think Amish built?) from a small independent manfacturer/seller.  Very well built, better than my mine and was around $2500 cheaper if I remember.

Some suggestions:

1) Get the 16" wheels and tires. It will carry more load and potentially last longer than 15" tires. The trailer tires these days are junk. Most people I know change them about every 2 years to avoid problems.
2) I purchased an equalizer hitch and sway bar and found them well worth the money.
3) I also run load range E radial tires on my truck AND trailer, a little overkill, but I like it.
4) Get a drivers entry door so you can get in and out of the car easily once loaded.
5) I installed a winch, pretty handy little item.

Let us know what you ultimately choose. I'll probably buy another one in a year or so, I'm interested in what you find out there and like or don't like and why.

Good luck with it!!

[69 OUR/TEA]

Like Dixie said , def go 24 foot . I have an American Hauler Night Hawk 24 foot , reg axles , not the Dexter . 5k lb axles ( 12'' brakes ) , and also as Dixie said , I got the drivers side entry door , worth every penny . Bought it in 2010 brand new , a friend hooked me up with a dealer he buys all his landscape trailers , list was $6,500 , paid $5,800 . Thought was a good deal for a brand new enclosed . I don't use it a lot anymore , now just store a car inside .
I mounted a winch and battery in the "V" part of the nose , very useful in pulling in cars that don't run !!! Pulled it with my 2004 1500 Ram 4x4 with 3.92 gears . I did however install weight distribution hitch and sway control . The gas mileage sucked with the Hemi , but towed it fine as far as power goes ( the dry weight was 3350 ) plus the car . The brakes on the trailer were more than adequate to stop everything without hurting the truck .

Worth checking them out , American Hauler .

[Challenger340]

I think 24' is a good size. Gives you some extra room for parts, luggage, etc. I have an 2008 Interstate brand (Loadrunner), had LOTS of trouble with it, poor dealer support. A buddy of mine bought one from South Georgia (I think Amish built?) from a small independent manfacturer/seller.  Very well built, better than my mine and was around $2500 cheaper if I remember.

Some suggestions:

1) Get the 16" wheels and tires. It will carry more load and potentially last longer than 15" tires. The trailer tires these days are junk. Most people I know change them about every 2 years to avoid problems.
2) I purchased an equalizer hitch and sway bar and found them well worth the money.
3) I also run load range E radial tires on my truck AND trailer, a little overkill, but I like it.
4) Get a drivers entry door so you can get in and out of the car easily once loaded.
5) I installed a winch, pretty handy little item.

Let us know what you ultimately choose. I'll probably buy another one in a year or so, I'm interested in what you find out there and like or don't like and why.

Good luck with it!!

This is all really good and practical advice on Trailer.Truck setup 

[Mike DC]

 

This is all really good and practical advice on Trailer.Truck setup  2thumbs

Seconded. 

[krigel]

Thanks for chiming in. Has anyone used Stealth Trailers before? I can get a 24 foot for a pretty decent price.

[NHCharger]

I have a 24' Haulmark with winch and equalizer hitch and sway bars. Nice set up.
The Stealth trailers are a really nice quality unit. If I was to buy a new trailer they would be at the top of my list.
Bakerhillpins (Bryan) just picked up a real nice 24' enclosed. Can't remember the brand. PM him for details

[taxspeaker]

24 foot only way to go. We had a 20' and it was tight in all areas. When it got stolen we replaced it with a 24 foot. Then it got stolen too. We replaced it with another 24 foot and bought a hitch lock AND one of those things that lock down the wheels- a boot thing with teeth, and no more stolen trailers. Some general comments:

We added a floor winch (removable) with 2 deep well marine batteries. We can move the winch from the enclosed trailer to an open trailer-excellent for dead cars. The winch has a 20' lead for remote operation if you are by your self and we can winch a car right up without a driver if needed.

We added ramps on each side just above the height of the wheel wells. It does away with the cost of the side door, makes tie downs a snap to fit under the car, and adds more storage-and if a wing car it still clears everything easily. We then put 2 12-volt LED light strips along the sides of the ramps to easily see everything but not get in the way.

We added 6 more D-rings by welding into the cross members for different tie down areas. We also added 4 E strips but have never used them.

We bought 2 sets of Mac's factory tie downs that they use to ship the cars new. They fit right in the holes already in the rear frame rails and in the front without worrying about axle rash. crawling under the car, messed up ratchet straps or any of that crap. We marked on the floor where to pull the front tires so that the weight is good and the straps fit without ever moving them.

In the V-nose we mounted on the wall an all-fire type fire extinguisher, hand towel bar, and 12 volt spotlight for night time stuff. We then bought a lightweight cheap aluminum roller base cabinet tool box and secured it, filling it will normal tools, some extra parts and fluids. We also mounted 2 movable 12 volt LED spots at the back beaver tail for night time loading. All the lights and spots run off of the deep well marine batteries, which we charge with a solar panel we mounted on the roof going through a 12-volt adapter trickle charger that turns off if the batteries are fully charged. We also mounted a 110 volt power strip on the wall and carry a 50' extension cord to charge batteries.

We don't think brand is important, but dual axles with electronic brakes are mandatory. We have not bought a load equalizer or stabilizer bar, but after reading the other comments I think we will.
Bob

[bakerhillpins]

I have a 24' Haulmark with winch and equalizer hitch and sway bars. Nice set up.
The Stealth trailers are a really nice quality unit. If I was to buy a new trailer they would be at the top of my list.
Bakerhillpins (Bryan) just picked up a real nice 24' enclosed. Can't remember the brand. PM him for details

Here is an old thread that I was using when I was looking:
http://www.dodgecharger.com/forum/index.php?topic=64327.0

I need to update that thread as I ended up with a 24' Sure Trac, 10k, spring axles, winch plate, rear stabilizers, and escape hatch. New ran me just under $8400 IIRC.

I tow with my 14' RAM crew that I outfitted for towing and use a Weight distribution hitch.

[Aero426]

Thanks for chiming in. Has anyone used Stealth Trailers before? I can get a 24 foot for a pretty decent price.

I have a 2015 Stealth 24 foot box.      No problems.    Hauls good.    I bought mine from Trailers Midwest in Elkhart Indiana.    

24 foot is a popular size.    You could certainly do it with a 22 foot.     With the V-nose, you gain a little extra room in the front for gear, etc.    

I would get the left side entry door.

[gtx6970]

I use a friends 22 foot Pace ( its probably 15 years old now ) Ive never had a problem , pulls great no issues .
Never tried it with a wing car so I cant speak for interior room around the nose . Normal B-body cars fit fine with plenty of room

I have always used either his 1 ton or my 3/4 ton truck. Not once have I ever had sway issues.  The truck pulling it makes a difference. So keep that in mind
Brakes on both axles are a must. quality tires are mandatory. especially with a good sidewall.

IMO the big side door isnt needed. To me its possibly another way to loose some integrity of the box and add another possible path for thieves to get in ( IMO )  . I pull every car in and out with a winch.

I know a guy who uses a 20' to haul his Challenger, ( I think his is a Haulmark ?? )
I think if  I were to buy one, I would go either 24 or possibly up to a 26' Never know when you need to get inside at a show during a downpour

Also I prefer a riveted side panel trailer. the idea of these glue on sides coming loose down the road worry me

[DixieRestoParts]

24 foot only way to go. We had a 20' and it was tight in all areas. When it got stolen we replaced it with a 24 foot. Then it got stolen too. We replaced it with another 24 foot and bought a hitch lock AND one of those things that lock down the wheels- a boot thing with teeth, and no more stolen trailers. Some general comments:

We added a floor winch (removable) with 2 deep well marine batteries. We can move the winch from the enclosed trailer to an open trailer-excellent for dead cars. The winch has a 20' lead for remote operation if you are by your self and we can winch a car right up without a driver if needed.

We added ramps on each side just above the height of the wheel wells. It does away with the cost of the side door, makes tie downs a snap to fit under the car, and adds more storage-and if a wing car it still clears everything easily. We then put 2 12-volt LED light strips along the sides of the ramps to easily see everything but not get in the way.

We added 6 more D-rings by welding into the cross members for different tie down areas. We also added 4 E strips but have never used them.

We bought 2 sets of Mac's factory tie downs that they use to ship the cars new. They fit right in the holes already in the rear frame rails and in the front without worrying about axle rash. crawling under the car, messed up ratchet straps or any of that crap. We marked on the floor where to pull the front tires so that the weight is good and the straps fit without ever moving them.

In the V-nose we mounted on the wall an all-fire type fire extinguisher, hand towel bar, and 12 volt spotlight for night time stuff. We then bought a lightweight cheap aluminum roller base cabinet tool box and secured it, filling it will normal tools, some extra parts and fluids. We also mounted 2 movable 12 volt LED spots at the back beaver tail for night time loading. All the lights and spots run off of the deep well marine batteries, which we charge with a solar panel we mounted on the roof going through a 12-volt adapter trickle charger that turns off if the batteries are fully charged. We also mounted a 110 volt power strip on the wall and carry a 50' extension cord to charge batteries.

We don't think brand is important, but dual axles with electronic brakes are mandatory. We have not bought a load equalizer or stabilizer bar, but after reading the other comments I think we will.
Bob

taxspeaker, you are the man! Love it !!

[taxspeaker]

Thanks Dixie-pictures during buildout and after completion with base led lights on

[Mopar John]

krigel,
Here are some things and I'll tell you why!
I have had a 24' box for years and a couple of years ago went to a 22' V nose.
I haul my 1970 GTX drag car and 1970 Superbird ( extra long due to nose cone).
Get the 5,000 LB axles with the torsion suspension and brakes on both axles!
If you have a brake issue hopefully it won't affect both axles and you can still stop it.
The torsion suspension adjusts better and doesn't leave all the weight on one wheel in akward positions.
The torsion axles last longer and have less maintenance issues.
Also try and get the smooth sides so you don't have screws that rust and stain the sides of the trailer!
A beaver tail door is nice for clearance getting in and out.
Just a few things that come to mind.
There is a member on the aero forum from Eac Claire, Wisconsin that sells these trailers.
His e-mail is amalcein@aol.com
MJ

[bakerhillpins]

Get the 5,000 LB axles with the torsion suspension and brakes on both axles!
The torsion suspension adjusts better and doesn't leave all the weight on one wheel in akward positions.

I'd suggest 5k too.  However, I believe you have it backwards WRT load distribution. Dual spring axle trailers have a built-in weight equalizer allowing both axles to share the load in uneven conditions. Torsion axles don't have this and thus on torsion axles you can push all the weight onto one axle.

I can't find the pages that I found this on previously (when I did my research) but here are 2 pages that have good pro/con for the 2 axle types, the first mentioning the load distribution:
https://www.grandvilletrailer.net/blog/leaf-spring-vs-torsion-how-not-to-get-wrapped-around-the-axle/
http://lamartrailer.net/spring-vs-torsion-utility-trailer-axles-whats-the-big-deal/

[Aero426]

The 5000 lb rated axles are a must with an enclosed.    You will find economy enclosed trailers sold with 3500 lb five lug axles.     By the time you put the car and your gear in there, you are going to be close to over weight.   As to leaf spring versus torsion axles,  the torsion axle will give a nice ride.   

[tcs69rt]

In 2006 I bought a 30' Team Spirit V-nose enclosed car trailer for $5995. It cuts the wind so I don't need an anti sway kit. It has the drivers side escape door. With the additional length I was able to put my 52 Panhead (Chopper) in the front with wheel brace at the V and still fit my 69 RT inside with a foot between them. Price the 30 footer versus the 24, just my 2 cents. TC

[XS29L9Bxxxxxx]

24' is probably right. Especially for such a long car as a Charger. 22' and you won't have much room on either end.  :Two cents:

I had a 28' and it was too long. Especially for a Lincoln Navigator to pull.

[krigel]

Thanks for all the input. I'm pretty much settled on a 24, and if I can get one with an extra V-nose, that would be great.

[c00nhunterjoe]

32 foot. The only way to travel. Fits the car, golf cart, 2 scooters, work bench, snapon tool box, generator and cooler of beer.

[krigel]

I ended up with a 24 foot Royal Trailer. They are built locally, and really good quality. I found a used one for a good price, and I'm happy with how it pulls, as well as how the car fits, with left over room for parts, winch, luggage, etc. For anyone else looking that has a B-body, I wouldn't go smaller than a 24 foot trailer.

[6pkrtse]

I have a 28' Trailer. Still has a 6' bench with vise & tool box mounted to it & I can fit my golf cart & my B or E Bodies with room to walk around in the front.

For theft:
I use the electric tongue as a anti-theft devise When I raise it up off of my truck I go all the way up & pull a hidden fuse inside that won't allow anyone to lower it back down onto their truck. I also have slide locks on both side of the rear inside of the ramp door with padlocks on the inside so even if someone was to cut off the padlocks on the rear on the outside they still cannot get in. I also use the usually tongue lock & also run chains thru the wheels with padlocks. Even if it only slows down the pro's by a few minutes, hopefully this keeps most from trying to steal it. Also slide on the sun covers to protect the tires from dry rot & hides the chains also.

I also use the remote control cordless winch to hold the side door closed from the inside. Just pull on the cable until there is tension on the door. I keep the remote stored externally & release the cable before opening the side door when I need to get in. Also always try to keep a spare vehicle parked in front of it when not in use.

[wingcar]

So, would a 24 foot be enough length for a Daytona as well?   Thinking about perhaps going with an open trailer but if an enclosed one comes up at a good price.....

[NHCharger]

I have a 24' Haulmark enclosed that I haul my Daytona clone with. Plenty of room.

[Birdflu]

'24 works fine with a 'nose'...