Question for carb guys....

[440]

Non Mopar again.

You could start car cold and drive all day without stopping no problems.

If you make a 10+ minute stop car restarts fine and you can drive through the parking lot and pull out onto the main road where it proceeds to die and wont restart, you could crank it till the battery dies. However if you hold it wide open while cranking it will fire, rev to the moon and then run fine all day provided you don't stop again.

I first thought fuel boiling but it restarts just fine, the holding it WOT to start sounds flooded. I vaguely remember looking at the float level through the sight plugs and there was fuel in the bowls when trying to start it..

The car is 500 miles away so I can't test or try anything, but I would like to know why or what is likely the problem. I don't have a fuel pressure gauge but that was one of the next things I wanted to check next time it died. Mechanical fuel pump is new.

Most likely not adjusted properly, but that's how I got it back from the dyno.

Carb is a Holley 670 Ultra Street Avenger on an Edelbrock Air Gap intake.

[c00nhunterjoe]

Could still be boiling fuel somewhere in the lines, just not the carb. Runs on the bowls for a few seconds then dies. Check fuel immediatly after it dies, then troubleshoot from there.

[440]

The only places it could be boiling are in the pump itself or possibly down by the collector in the chassis, everywhere else it's away from heat.

The next things on my list anyways were a fuel pressure gauge and a high volume fuel pump.

[69wannabe]

Are the heat crossovers blocked on the intake manifold? Metal fuel lines close to the engine block or exhaust manifold or headers? Cool carb technology carb heat spacers or maybe an edelbrock heat insulator spacer of some kind, I usually run my fuel level a little bit low on the sight glasses to help with the fuel heat soak these days. Also get some thermo tec sleeve to go over the fuel lines to help keep heat off the fuel lines. There are several things you can do to help with the heat soak issues......

[440]

There is no crossover in the manifold and nothing has really changed with the fuel lines. Next time it does it I'll see how hot the fuel lines are and check a few other things. The fuel isn't boiling in the carb but must be somewhere else.

This carb has been a real PITA from the start so I'm close to throwing it in the scrap heap.

[John_Kunkel]

I don't have a fuel pressure gauge but that was one of the next things I wanted to check next time it died. Mechanical fuel pump is new.

New pump might be putting out too much pressure BTDT. A gauge will tell for certain.

[69wannabe]

Is it a big block or a small block??

[440]

The only fuel pressure gauge that looks to be consistant is the liquid filled Aeromotive with pressure relief.

https://www.aeromotiveinc.com/product/0-15-psi-fuel-pressure-gauge/

I'm also looking at the Proflow 100gph mechanical pump which is 7 1/2lb pressure, a hefty upgrade from the crappy stock style pump that from what I can tell is only 23gph.

Small block 351c

[440]

I picked up my Aeromotive gauge today which is made by Autometer. It's 1.5" but looking up Autometer gauges they don't have a 1.5" fuel pressure gauge, I wonder why?

[timmycharger]

Personally, I never had any luck with liquid filled fuel pressure gauges. I think it is because I put it too close to sources of heat because once the car warmed up, the gauge always showed 0.  I replaced it with a cheapo non liquid gauge and had no problems for years. 

[440]

I've read pulses from a mechanical pump can kill dry gauges quite quickly "needle flutter", liquid gauges obviously dampen the effect but as you say internal gauge pressure as it heats up is a problem as it alters the reading. This gauge has a built in pressure relief valve to equalize the pressure to get an accurate reading no matter how hot or cold it is.