Seperating Spindle from upper ball joint...Tricks???? :-(

[AKcharger]

Hey Guys I'm stuck here. Doing the A-body disc mod and can't get the spindle off the ball joint. I've tried two forks and I bottom both of them out...Suggestions?

- Jack is just positioned under it, full spring tension is pulling down on the spindle
- Same issue both sides
- Fork is bottomed out, tried reasonable amount of pounding...nothing

Thanks in advance

[JB400]

Tried hitting the spindle at the ball joint with a hammer on both sides, at the same time?  Hold a hammer against one side, while hitting it on the other.

[will]

http://www.americanmuscle.biz/23481_Upper_Ball_Joint_Stud_Remover_A_B_E_p/23481.htm
Hammer method will work also

[Kern Dog]

Tried hitting the spindle at the ball joint with a hammer on both sides, at the same time?  Hold a hammer against one side, while hitting it on the other.

THis often works.

If you are tossing the old parts, cut the ball joint  shank with a sawzall.

[AKcharger]

So you guys are saying hit the spindle when it has spring tension on it and that should release it??

Ball joint seem good so will keep if I can :-)

[JB400]

Yes, from both sides, at same time. Or at least with sickle fork having pressure on it

[MoParJW]

Putting tension on it with a Ball joint/pulley puller and a sharp strike with a hammer did the trick for me.

[Jonas_N]

Tried hitting the spindle at the ball joint with a hammer on both sides, at the same time?  Hold a hammer against one side, while hitting it on the other.

This.
Worked for me, having a big heavy hammer on one side and hitting it on the other side, going around it.

[John_Kunkel]

Tried hitting the spindle at the ball joint with a hammer on both sides, at the same time?  Hold a hammer against one side, while hitting it on the other.

Problem with that is, if you miss with the BFH, you can damage the control arm (us old folks don't always shoot straight) so I prefer an air hammer with a flush set...easier to control and only needed on one side.

[AKcharger]

Hammer and hammers...no workie. I already cleaned up shop for the night will try the impact hammer idea tomorrow...if that fails I guess there's a super secret tool for this??

One thing I should have recalled, EVERY job on the '70 takes about 6 times longer than it should for some reason. Surprisingly the '72 always seem to go smoothly? Perhaps an old voodoo curse or somthing?? 

[440]

It has to be a big heavy hammer and a brisk solid strike. I normally only unthread the castle nut a couple of turns so that the assembly doesn't just fall apart when the ball joint pops.

It may be in vain but sometimes for stubborn joints I'll soak with penetrating spray.


The air chisel attachment is probably easier on the parts than a hammer though.

[charger Downunder]

Lower the jack so its not holding it up, loosen the nut off and wack that sucker with two heavy hammers at the same time right on the spindle.

[b5blue]

Hammer and hammers...no workie. I already cleaned up shop for the night will try the impact hammer idea tomorrow...if that fails I guess there's a super secret tool for this??

One thing I should have recalled, EVERY job on the '70 takes about 6 times longer than it should for some reason. Surprisingly the '72 always seem to go smoothly? Perhaps an old voodoo curse or somthing?? 

I got the tool from Mancini, Like a big nut/bolt that unscrews to press the stud out. Load up pressure and wack! (Worth having)

[John_Kunkel]

Here's the recommended tool in use.

[hemi71x]

John K.
I was just going to post, if anyone's ever used that Miller Special Tools C-3711 in removing upper control arms, on Mopar automobiles.
I have had one of those in my toolbox, since the 1970's and i doubt i have ever used it.
The pickle forks, or the air hammer have always worked for me, when i was professionally wrenching, or taking cars apart at the Pick-N-Pull wrecking yards.

The tool is placed between the studs of the ball joints, screw the adjustment nut to put pressure on the stud, and smack the side of the spindle to remove the stud of the ball joint, out of the spindle taper.

Guess it's Easy Peasy with the tool.
Jim V.
hemi71x

[AKcharger]

Well, got one side using a hammer and dolly, pax is still uncooperative. I soaked it in spray lube as I go to work, try again in a few days. Thanks for tool post. At least I have a back-up now 

[440]

That hammer is too light

[AKcharger]

Yeah, but it's best I got, I'll get another when I get back. I was going to use air hammer but lost the lil' hammer attachment 

[hemi71x]

That hammer is too light

Ya, no wonder your having problems.
Everyone here was figuring that you would be using a Big F%#*@+G Hammer, at least a three pounder, whacking on that pickle fork.

[JB400]

At least you got one side.   

[RallyeMike]

You used a finish hammer .....and it actually came apart? You have to be pulling our legs

[66FBCharger]

John K.
I was just going to post, if anyone's ever used that Miller Special Tools C-3711 in removing upper control arms, on Mopar automobiles.
I have had one of those in my toolbox, since the 1970's and i doubt i have ever used it.
The pickle forks, or the air hammer have always worked for me, when i was professionally wrenching, or taking cars apart at the Pick-N-Pull wrecking yards.

The tool is placed between the studs of the ball joints, screw the adjustment nut to put pressure on the stud, and smack the side of the spindle to remove the stud of the ball joint, out of the spindle taper.

Guess it's Easy Peasy with the tool.
Jim V.
hemi71x

I tried everything mentioned to separate the upper ball joint and had no success until I used the Miller tool. I put some pressure on the ball joint studs with the tool, wacked the spindle a few times with a big hammer and the ball joint popped out. In my opinion the tool makes the job quick and easy.

[CDN72SE]

Good, luck I'll be watching this thread, unfortunately my stuff is already off the car.

[AKcharger]

OK got a 4lb hammer and beat it to death for about 10 mins...it aint budging. Does anyone have a source for the miller tool? Internet searches brought up lots of mopar tool sites but not that one.


Will buy or rent if someone has one??

On a good note the drivers side is pretty much together :-)

[hemi71x]

That Miller Special Tools has been obsolete for decades.
Probably wasn't that popular of a tool to be used back in 1970 anyway.
Gotta be an old timer, like me, to ever have something like that.

Your at the point in not ever saving that upper ball joint anyway.
Time to beg, borrow, rent, steal, a "flame wrench" or grinder, and cut the stud of the ball joint in two.
Rip off whats left of that grease boot, and wipe away all the grease that you can, and heat up the top portion of the spindle to expand the metal, the best it can.
Then give the pickle fork some good whacks, and see if it comes apart.
You really don't have much of a choice.
Or get out the grinder and cut the stud in two.
Then go and buy yourself a new ball joint, and then we will probably be reading a posting on how the best way to remove and install a upper ball joint.
Good luck.
Been following your troubles here.

[AKcharger]

Lol, then I'll need to buy the ball joint socket tool!!!

[hemi71x]

Lol, then I'll need to buy the ball joint socket tool!!!

Yep.

[Kern Dog]

Yeah...
I have a buddy that places almost NO importance on his time. He will spend 6 hours screwing with something, fighting, sweating, ripping his knuckles to save a few bucks.
Me? HELL NO. I get pissed and just spend the money to save time and frustration. In your case, I would have cut the damn ball joint stud after 15 minutes of effort, maybe less. A ball joint is what... $30 ?? What is your time worth?   

[AKcharger]

Cut the ball joints then I need the special tool to replace the ball joint!

[hemi71x]

How long have you been dicking around with this problem, and you still haven't gotten it apart?
You must know some other enthusiast up there in Alaska, that has a torch set up that can come over your place and  heat up the spindle, as a method in separating the parts from one another.
You gotta do, what ya gotta do, sometimes in auto repair.
It's not like your in North Korea, or somewhere  where you just can't get anything.
Alaska isn't the end of the world.
If your that cheap about buying a tool to get the job done, i just can't figure that out at all.
Just suck it up, buy a tool or two, and be over and done with it.
It's not gonna break your piggy bank, now will it?

[AKcharger]

GOT IT!  

Surprising what you can do with the proper motivation...seeing the proper tool isn't available.
- Pickle fork wedged
- Full torsion bar tension on arm (with nut on)
- "Super wack" with 4lb hammer

Thanks guys

[AKcharger]

Oh...didn't need dolly or double hammer, one side hit was fine 

[hemi71x]

            

[Bob]

I was rooting for you all the way. 

[JB400]

Good to hear   Don't forget to give the Mrs back her hammer

[AKcharger]

Good to hear   Don't forget to give the Mrs back her hammer

Lol, I'd be safer if I didn't...Thanks guys!

[71 SE3834V]

I'm a little late for this but just so others know Auto Zone loans an upper ball joint press that will put enough pressure on the stud to knock it loose with a hammer whack. Used it recently on mine although mine had been replaced just 6 yrs ago. Also Advance Auto loans a kit that includes the ball joint socket. Found that one out after I bought one.

[AKcharger]

Still good to know. Brakes all done and works great BTW :-)