New engine build- stumbling under acceleration-issue found

[NHCharger]

Have about 450 miles on the engine.
440, bored .030 over stock pistons
DC cam., duration 272, overlap 48
Weiland intake
Edlebrock Thunder Series 800 CFM carb. Primary jets .113, secondary .101. Metering rods .068x.047
FireCore RTR ignition system, with the proper coil to match.

Car runs fine when I accelerate slowly, when I step on it, it bogs and hesitates/sputters. Seems to run a bit better when I have the vacuum port on the distributor plugged versus tied into the carb.
Timing is currently 13º at idle, 32-34º @ 2800.
I have played with the timing, doesn't seem to make much difference.
There is three adjustments for the plunger on the carb, tried all three did not fix the problem.
It starts fine and runs very smooth with the exception of the acceleration issue.
Thinking I might need to re-jet?? 

[68CoronetRT]

You lost me at the part where you talk about a carburetor. Sorry

Honestly though, an AFR gauge is one of the best tools to show you what's going on with your tuning. Also the base timing seems way too low. Should be like 16-18.

When you stomp on it, does it ever clear up? What happens if you just hold your foot to the floor?

I'd also try plugging up all your vacuum lines and see how it runs.

[BSB67]

How does it idle?  what is the idle vacuum? and at what rpm? Try initial at 18 or 20°.

Can be idle mix is too lean
Can be transition is too lean
Can be vacuum leak
Might need larger squirter
Might like more initial timing
Could be pump/squirter not performing correctly.

Or a little of a few of these.

[c00nhunterjoe]

Stock .030 pistons tells me they are 8:1 slugs unless you have a specific part number. Odds are it will want alot more initial like russ stated. Does this bog only happen from an idle stab? Trying rolling along in 1st gear bringing the rpm up to 2500, then stab the throttle and see what it does. If it takes off without a hitch, look at more initial timing and carb transition.

[Kern Dog]

In many cases, an off idle stumble is because the transition from idle to primary circuit is too lean. The accelerator pump shot needs to be larger to cover the rush of incoming air when the throttle is cranked open.

[NHCharger]

Made the following adjustments.
Initial timing 19* @ 850.
Vacuum is 8 @ 850.
Pump plunger on top hole-factory setting.
I sprayed carb cleaner around the base of carb. No increase in rpms.
During test drive same issues. Moved the pump plunger to bottom hole. Really no noticeable difference.
The car accelerates fine from dead stop or rolling at 20 mph up to 50-60% throttle. Once I reach the point where the other two barrels should kick in is when the stumbling and bogging starts. 
Wondering if there's some shit in the secondary jet.

[BSB67]

The car accelerates fine from dead stop or rolling at 20 mph up to 50-60% throttle. Once I reach the point where the other two barrels should kick in is when the stumbling and bogging starts. 
Wondering if there's some shit in the secondary jet.

Secondary jet issue
Air Valve to loose
Floats to low

Possibly, but less likely.  Fuel delivery - fuel pump push rod or fuel pump

[NHCharger]

I had checked for fuel delivery issue. I had a spare fuel pump which I swapped out, no difference. Fuel pump push rod-brand new. New fuel line also. Did check the fuel line to make sure it wasn't pinched anywhere.
I took the carb apart last week to check the floats, passenger side was a half inch too low- thought I had found the problem.
Looks like I will take the carb off tomorrow night and check the secondary jet.
Air valve to loose?? I'll read up on that.
Appreciate all your replies.

[torqueflite]

Fuel  pump push rod , I had that issue with my new build 383 , I listened to the internet and put in a bronze tip fuel pump rod which lasted abut 500 miles before the end wore down ,and it stopped pumping ..slowly ,,
was a prick of a thing to get out and after changing out to a standard hardened one its been all  good

[NHCharger]

Update. Pulled carb apart- again. Cleaned everything and blew out with compressed air. When I took the pump jet off there is supposed to be a pump discharge weight and discharge ball. No weight, some kind of little spring. Cannot find this spring in any of the exploded view diagrams. Bought a eddy rebuild kit and installed the weight, no spring. Car runs better under acceleration but still have hesitation and it stumbles, throttle response not very crisp compared to my 68 with a built 440 and proform carb.
Another weird thing is whenever I enter a right turn, doesn't have to be sharp the car stumbles when I initially turn right, not thru the entire corner. No problem on left hand turns.
Geuss I'll call edelbrock tech line this week.

[69wannabe]

Toss the edelbrock carb and put a good holley or proform 750 on it and it will most likely take the bog away. Put your timing around 18 to 20 initial with a total around 34 to 36 and leave the vacuum advance plugged off. I had a 650 thunder series AVS on my 383 years back and could never get the secondary bog/stumble out if it. Went to a holley 750 and never looked back at an edelbrock carb since...

[Challenger340]

just say'in....
tuning a cammed and very low compression 440(7.8:1) in front of a stock auto/Torque Converter with 3.23 gears can be a P.I.T.A.

Are the above components what you have ?

[flyinlow]

Have you looked down the carb while opening the throttle and watching the accelerator pump discharge? Good spray on both sides?

You might need a bigger pump nozzles. I think Eddy makes a set of three different sizes. The Eddy website will tell you what size pump discharge nozzle that carb comes with. Maybe there is a larger one.

I had an Edelbrock 800 and it took the largest nozzle and it was still marginal.

Hard to beat Holley accelerator pump system. Its like having two Midgets with Supper Soakers full of gasoline in you air cleaner.

[NHCharger]

Hard to beat Holley accelerator pump system. Its like having two Midgets with Supper Soakers full of gasoline in you air cleaner.

  now that's funny.
Chally340. You are correct. The 440 and tranny came out of a motor home.

[bee1971]

AVS 800 1812/1813 Series

The 800 1412/1413 has a weighted door that is not adjustable

Anyways did you try adjusting the Air Valve Door above the Secondary Throttle Plates ?

A bog tells me your air door spring is adjusted to light , opening to soon

Like BSB67 said , air valve door to loose

[bee1971]

http://www.edelbrock.com/automotive/misc/tech-center/install/1000/1812.pdf

Page 6 - Adjusting The Air Valve Secondary

[NHCharger]

Thanks Bee. I adjusted the air valve door tonight, one full turn. No difference. One night next week I'm going to swap it out with the ProForm 750 that I have on my 68 Charger and see what happens.

[flyinlow]

I like Carter AVS (Thunder) and Thermoquad  carbs. They worked well on relatively stock engines with higher vacuum. However, add a larger cam and a larger plenum unheated aluminum intake and they seam to run in to hesitation issues with sudden WOT applications. Carter (Eddy)  carbs are all mechanical secondary carbs with only one accelerator pump. They do have air valves on the secondaries to help. Holley mechanical secondary carbs are usually double pumpers.
Have a Holley 770 Street Avenger on one Charger and had a Quick Fuel 780 on the other until I went EFI. The Quick fuel required almost no adjustments to run well.

It will be interesting to see how the Pro form does.

[c00nhunterjoe]

Tuning an afb is no different then a holley in theory. Just takes time and patience. 1 saturday at the track is all it takes.

[krops cars]

Call Edlebrock. I had the same issues with a couple of carbs. The pump has I think 3 positions. If not set right it will stumble. Also I believe the you can change the metering rods. I bought a book and a kit. Edelbrock will help you with it. The kit has different metering rods and other items. Start with the accelerator pump first. If you do not get any help from Edelbrock I will look it up again for proper adjustment.

[bee1971]

Thanks Bee. I adjusted the air valve door tonight, one full turn. No difference. One night next week I'm going to swap it out with the ProForm 750 that I have on my 68 Charger and see what happens.

What Happened ?

One turn is nothing , I would have tightened it up/more resistance , three or four full turns and just see if any noticeable difference

Anyways you get the Holley installed ?

[NHCharger]

Thanks Bee. I adjusted the air valve door tonight, one full turn. No difference. One night next week I'm going to swap it out with the ProForm 750 that I have on my 68 Charger and see what happens.

What Happened ?

One turn is nothing , I would have tightened it up/more resistance , three or four full turns and just see if any noticeable difference

Anyways you get the Holley installed ?

Haven't had any time this week to work on car. I'll post an update once I get a chance to fiddle with it.

[bee1971]

"The car accelerates fine from dead stop or rolling at 20 mph up to 50-60% throttle. Once I reach the point where the other two barrels should kick in is when the stumbling and bogging starts. "

That's why I keep saying Air Door

Loosen torx screw , have screwdriver in place on spring adjustment while loosening torx screw

If you lose spring tension and Air Door goes wide open , then bring it back to the closed position by turning screwdriver counterclockwise



Turn the screwdriver clockwise until the Air Door just starts to open

Now turn the screwdriver counterclockwise about 2 full turns , in hence closing the Air Door and putting spring tension on the Air Door itself

Tighten torx screw , now tap the Air Door open with your finger and it should snap back closed under spring tension

Try it

Then next time try 3 full turns counterclockwise or 4 full turns in hence putting more spring tension/stronger on the Air Door and see if any noticeable difference ?

Have you checked any Spark Plugs for ? Color

[NHCharger]

Update. Had a respiratory virus that took a few weeks to clear so I had to lay low for a while. Also granddaughter #2 was born 
I began to wonder if this was ignition related.
Also running a Firecore RTR system in my 68 Charger so I swapped distributors a few nights ago, no difference.
I did try tightening up the air door a few more turns, no difference.
A friend had an accelerator pump from a Eddy 750 left over from a rebuild. I stuck that in the carb, ran a bit worse at low speed, no difference otherwise.
Bought a calibration kit for the carb. Swapped the metering rods and springs, no difference.
Also got that Holley from my friend that he took off his GTX. One of the mounting ears is broke off. Going to try to JB Weld it tonight and drop it on one day this week.

[c00nhunterjoe]

Congrats on the grandbaby. If you have changed every setting on the carb and not had a single change in the problem, it lays elsewhere but it sounds like you are having other issues such as the stumble in turns. Be leary on using a carb that has an ear broke off. May open a new can of worms in troubleshooting.
  I still feel the 6:1 dynamic compression ratio you are most likely working with is the main root of your problems. What octane fuel are you using? If 93, try dropping back to 87 and see if anything changes. Tak3 the proform off your other car. It is a verified known good unit. May be rich but shouldnt bog if the carb is the problem.

[NHCharger]

Before I take carb off other car there are two things I haven't changed on the new carb. 
The main jets and accelerator pump nozzles. I'll swap them tonight. Why not. At this point I can take the carb apart blindfolded.

[NHCharger]

Ok. Just tried that set up. Think car ran a bit worse at low speeds. Same problem with bog. Also dumped in 12 gallons of 87. No difference. When I'm coasting at 20 in drive and nail the throttle I get the bog, but when I'm coasting at 20 and put it in neutral and nail it, no bog, only under a load this happens.
I'm waiting for the engine to cool down to pull a few plugs.

[68CoronetRT]

I know the solution to your troubles....

Toss the carb and do EFI.... enjoy a well driving car and never look at a carb again. 

[NHCharger]

I have two pics of the plugs. The plugs with all 8 are from June 3, to other is from tonight.
It's obvious that plugs 2 and 8 are different from the rest. Also looks like I went to far with the carb adjustment. Went .043 on the accelerator pump nozzle and went with the largest main jets.

[bee1971]

Yes , very very rich looking at the base ring threads

Accelerator pump nozzle is off idle acceleration , hesitation off idle while stabbing the gas pedal etc.


Your saying a bog more towards when cruising and kicking in the secondaries , NOT OFF IDLE correct ?

Something else is going on with the secondary portion of that carb , float adjustments , needle and seat
Restriction in the carb etc.


Try another carb and see if the issue goes away and get back to us

[c00nhunterjoe]

Compression test while plugs are out. 2 and 8 are clearly way off. How where these reading taken?

[firefighter3931]

Brian,

What plugs are you running in this engine ? Heat range looks a bit cold based on their appearance.

I would try some new NGK XR4's and gap them at .035 

https://www.summitracing.com/int/parts/ngk-5858/overview/



Ron

[NHCharger]

Hey Ron, I'm currently running NGK  UR5, v power. The motor came out of a 70's motor home and has the tapered plugs.
Starting tomorrow we are in full Carlisle prep mode. Heading down Wednesday. When we get back I'll try the different plugs. Still haven't had time to swap the Proform off my 68 onto the wing car to see what happens.
Are you heading down this year??

[NHCharger]

I just put my buddies 750 Edelbrock on the car. Same symptoms. Will pull plugs tomorrow night and do compression test

[c00nhunterjoe]

What did your buddies 750 come off of? Odds are its not tuned for your engine either. This is probably still related to timing and vaccum signal from a low comp engine with too much cam though.

[firefighter3931]

Hey Ron, I'm currently running NGK  UR5, v power. The motor came out of a 70's motor home and has the tapered plugs.
Starting tomorrow we are in full Carlisle prep mode. Heading down Wednesday. When we get back I'll try the different plugs. Still haven't had time to swap the Proform off my 68 onto the wing car to see what happens.
Are you heading down this year??

Hi Brian....how was Carlisle ? Couldn't make it this year due to work schedule. 

I would go one heat range warmer (UR4) and see how it runs. 

I bet it would run much better with a proform 750 street series vac secondary carb. 



Ron

[NHCharger]

Hey Ron. Carlisle was great. No rain. A ton of cars. Lots of foot traffic. For a change I didn't have a three page shopping list.
I did a compression test last night, all the plugs out, cold engine. Every cylinder was 168-170.
I changed out the plugs from UR5 to UR4. It had the same symptoms, maybe even a bit worse.
I changed the timing at idle from 18* to 13*, no difference.
The car still has that hiccup, when I'm cruising around 30-40 and turn left it will hiccup like something interrupted the fuel delivery.
I guess some time next week I will remove the Proform from the 68 and stick it on the Daytona. It only takes ten minutes to swap carbs when swapping Edelbrocks which is why I borrowed my friends carb. Will be interesting if it ends up that this motor doesn't like Eddys. The previous owner was running a Holley. I tried installing that last month but it was leaking like a sieve from both bowls.

Joe- My buddy has a 70 GTX, 440. He got it when his dad passed away 6 years ago. He doesn't know much about it. His Dad use to drag race it. From the sound of the engine I'm pretty sure it's not stock.

[69wannabe]

None of my engines like the eddy carbs, I have been running holley's for years now with good results. I had a really good 600 edelbrock on my old ford but I think the ford engines like the eddy carbs more than the mopar engines do.

[BSB67]

If you guys cannot get an Eddy to run on your motor, it is not a reflection of the motor that is under it.  It is simply one of two things, a faulty carb, or lack of proper trouble shooting and tuning.

[bakerhillpins]

If you guys cannot get an Eddy to run on your motor, it is not a reflection of the motor that is under it.  It is simply one of two things, a faulty carb, or lack of proper trouble shooting and tuning.

Well, that's kinda what this thread is all about. Trying to figure it out what the problem is.    If you have some trouble shooting and tuning tips why not be constructive and share them rather than just going with the criticism part? 

[c00nhunterjoe]

If you guys cannot get an Eddy to run on your motor, it is not a reflection of the motor that is under it.  It is simply one of two things, a faulty carb, or lack of proper trouble shooting and tuning.

Well, that's kinda what this thread is all about. Trying to figure it out what the problem is.    If you have some trouble shooting and tuning tips why not be constructive and share them rather than just going with the criticism part? 

There have been alot of troubleshooting tips given. I think he has swapped 3 carbs at this point all with the exact same concern at the exact same point- tells me its not a carb problem. The stumble while turning may be playing a role, especially if it is also doing it with the swapped carbs as well. There is more going on here then a carb tuning issue.

[BSB67]

If you guys cannot get an Eddy to run on your motor, it is not a reflection of the motor that is under it.  It is simply one of two things, a faulty carb, or lack of proper trouble shooting and tuning.

Well, that's kinda what this thread is all about. Trying to figure it out what the problem is.    If you have some trouble shooting and tuning tips why not be constructive and share them rather than just going with the criticism part?  

I see your panties are in a bunch.  I have made recommendations on what to look for.  The OP has dismissed most of them.  So either he is missing it, has convinced himself the something is okay that is not (which happens about half of the time, - i.e. I've check everything and everything is perfect but it still does not run right syndrome)  or its a faulty carb.  If the car was in my driveway, I would figure it out.

It's a lean condition, it can only be so many things.  He never really check for a vacuum leak or fuel pressure, among other things.  

8" vacuum at 850 rpm with basically a stock cam.  He sprayed a little carb cleaner........all good, despite the evidence.  Can lead a horse to water, can't make it drink

[c00nhunterjoe]

Same exact problem with 2 different carbs..... if you are sure its the carb, remove the metering rods and springs and drive it.

[NHCharger]

If you guys cannot get an Eddy to run on your motor, it is not a reflection of the motor that is under it.  It is simply one of two things, a faulty carb, or lack of proper trouble shooting and tuning.

Well, that's kinda what this thread is all about. Trying to figure it out what the problem is.    If you have some trouble shooting and tuning tips why not be constructive and share them rather than just going with the criticism part?  

I see your panties are in a bunch.  I have made recommendations on what to look for.  The OP has dismissed most of them.  So either he is missing it, has convinced himself the something is okay that is not (which happens about half of the time, - i.e. I've check everything and everything is perfect but it still does not run right syndrome)  or its a faulty carb.  If the car was in my driveway, I would figure it out.

It's a lean condition, it can only be so many things.  He never really check for a vacuum leak or fuel pressure, among other things.  

8" vacuum at 850 rpm with basically a stock cam.  Sprayed a little carb cleaner........all good, despite the evidence.  Can lead a horse to water, can't make it drink

I believe I have checked every recommendation you guys have made.  I keep a list of everything. I will check it tomorrow night. Maybe I have missed  or overlooked something

[NHCharger]

Same exact problem with 2 different carbs..... if you are sure its the carb, remove the metering rods and springs and drive it.

That's the problem.  I'm not sure it's the carb. That's why I swapped fuel pumps. Have a new fuel pump rod. I then thought it must be ignition so I swapped distributors with my 68 Charger.
When you guys talk about vacuum leaks how many other areas can have a leak besides the base of the carb? 

[bee1971]

Turn in the idle mixture screws on carb , clockwise to see if you can get the engine to die at idle , see if it's sucking air somewhere else if it stays running

Who installed the timing chain and gears ?  What was the cam installed at , dot to dot or advanced/retarded

Like mentioned 8" vacuum is terrible at idle for that cam

Coil ? Higher RPM's when getting hot

Anyways I would like to see or know how that cam was installed

[c00nhunterjoe]

Swapping fuel pumps does not verify fuel pressure. You have to put a gauge on it and drive it at wide open throttle.

[bakerhillpins]

I see your panties are in a bunch.  I have made recommendations on what to look for.  The OP has dismissed most of them.  So either he is missing it, has convinced himself the something is okay that is not (which happens about half of the time, - i.e. I've check everything and everything is perfect but it still does not run right syndrome)  or its a faulty carb.  If the car was in my driveway, I would figure it out.

It's a lean condition, it can only be so many things.  He never really check for a vacuum leak or fuel pressure, among other things.  

8" vacuum at 850 rpm with basically a stock cam.  He sprayed a little carb cleaner........all good, despite the evidence.  Can lead a horse to water, can't make it drink

Maybe you weren't trying to be snarky in the previous post but that's the way it came across to me and If I'm wrong then I apologize.

I have been trying to help the OP on this issue offline and he's even walked me through a bunch of the stuff he's tried when I stopped by before Carlisle. I believe he's made a good faith effort to try all the suggestions and apparently you don't. If you feel the testing procedures are not up to your standards then try suggesting steps to take or endeavor to ask how the evaluation was performed before assuming otherwise. That's all I'm suggesting. The testing steps you provide may help the OP as well as the next person to read the thread. I know that I have a lot to learn and always appreciate the efforts of others to explain how/why.

[Nickrc3]

Turn in the idle mixture screws on carb , clockwise to see if you can get the engine to die at idle , see if it's sucking air somewhere else if it stays running

Who installed the timing chain and gears ?  What was the cam installed at , dot to dot or advanced/retarded

Like mentioned 8" vacuum is terrible at idle for that cam

Coil ? Higher RPM's when getting hot

Anyways I would like to see or know how that cam was installed

...I had similar issues and it was exactly what Bee1971 listed - coil.

[NHCharger]

Have not had time to work on car lately. Work slowly crushing my soul.
I tried testing for vac leak again at different throttle speeds, no difference.
Vacuum is 13-14 at idle, not 8.
I tried Joe's suggestion about removing metering rods and springs- no difference.
I played with timing-no difference.
Decided to put original metering rods and springs back in and set timing to 18* initial to go to car show last Sunday, when I pulled out of shop car was running badly, so I figured I would back off timing a bit, when I was adjusting, car died , wouldn't start. Let it sit and just took 68 Charger to show.
Tested ignition system when I go home. Distributor shit the bed. this was the Firecore distributor that I swapped with my 68 when I was trying to diagnose problem. this distributor is five years old and has only 7k miles on it. so out of warranty.
Got the new distributor yesterday. While reading instructions it said I should swap out the stock springs for lighter springs for a low compression street engine. So I swapped springs, installed distributor and set timing, went to go for test drive- no brakes.
I bled brakes, no difference. Vacuum is 10-11.
Going to swap back to original springs and see what happens.
I have not tested fuel pressure yet.

[Kern Dog]

Have not had time to work on car lately. Work slowly crushing my soul.

I've been there as well. I've always worked 39-40 hour weeks but sometimes the commute has sometimes been a killer. I'm talking 2.5 to 3 hours getting home! That almost always killed my motivation to do anything once I finally got home.   

[NHCharger]

Have not had time to work on car lately. Work slowly crushing my soul.

I've been there as well. I've always worked 39-40 hour weeks but sometimes the commute has sometimes been a killer. I'm talking 2.5 to 3 hours getting home! That almost always killed my motivation to do anything once I finally got home.   

Ugh, that is a killer commute. I found the source of my brake issue. I had a buddy over the night I installed the new distributor, we also pulled a couple plugs to check them. He did not get the plug wire back on #5 all the way. When I first started the car it ran real rough (not knowing plug wire was off) when I revved it up a bit he claimed something shot out of the carb right by his head. Yesterday I found the plug wire off, car ran better but still seemed off. After the no brake issue I tested vacuum because the pedal was hard. I tested at the manifold, when I tested at the Bendix booster something looked wrong, I shined the light on the vacuum connection and it appeared there was a cap missing. I did a search of the garage floor in front of my car and sure enough, in a cardboard box with some rollers six feet away was a black plastic cap, it snapped back onto the vacuum connection. I'm now wondering if the cap was never fully inserted onto the connection. Will test drive today.

[c00nhunterjoe]

Its sounding like this is not a carb issue at all.

[NHCharger]

After going around with the engine builder numerous times I finally had a Mopar mechanic look at it. He said I had a massive vacuum leak. I swapped the intake and it cured some of the issue. Went back to the builder again and he said that probably the cam I supplied doesn't work well with the heads and suggested a set of 906 or aluminum heads. At that point I said fu*k it and ran the car as is until I had time to pull the motor. Finally had time to pull the motor last weekend. Yeah, not real happy at this point.

[70 sublime]

Guess you found the problem

[cdr]

You need to pull the heads & make sure the valves did not hit the pistons & get bent.

[NHCharger]

Yeah. I sent some pics to the engine builder, he called me with in ten minutes, couldn't believe that he did that. I have a meeting with him tomorrow. He said whatever it takes to make it right.

[C500]

What was the main problem of bad brakes - the cap on the booster missing or something else too?

[Kern Dog]

Yeah. I sent some pics to the engine builder, he called me with in ten minutes, couldn't believe that he did that. I have a meeting with him tomorrow. He said whatever it takes to make it right.

Am I seeing that right? The crank sprocket is 3 teeth off? That is over 24 degrees retarded.

[Mopar Nut]

After going around with the engine builder numerous times I finally had a Mopar mechanic look at it. He said I had a massive vacuum leak. I swapped the intake and it cured some of the issue. Went back to the builder again and he said that probably the cam I supplied doesn't work well with the heads and suggested a set of 906 or aluminum heads. At that point I said fu*k it and ran the car as is until I had time to pull the motor. Finally had time to pull the motor last weekend. Yeah, not real happy at this point.

Glad you found the problem, good catch.

[Mopar Nut]

Yeah. I sent some pics to the engine builder, he called me with in ten minutes, couldn't believe that he did that. I have a meeting with him tomorrow. He said whatever it takes to make it right.

Did the engine builder make it right?

[NHCharger]

Yeah. I sent some pics to the engine builder, he called me with in ten minutes, couldn't believe that he did that. I have a meeting with him tomorrow. He said whatever it takes to make it right.

Am I seeing that right? The crank sprocket is 3 teeth off? That is over 24 degrees retarded.

Unfortunately, yes you are seeing that right. He was pretty embarrassed when I stopped over to talk to him about this. He said bring it back and he would do a complete tear down and fix whatever is needed. I plan on bringing it over after I get back from Carlisle.
The other half of the story- a buddy of mine has a 68 GTX with a non #s 440 (mild build). He decided it didn't make enough HP so he had his spare 440 built for 600+ HP, he sold me his old 440 (only used one season, 1,200 miles) for 5k. Complete engine except for the altenator and pulleys. While waiting for that I had the tranny gone thru and bought a new torque converter from Dynamic Converters in NJ. Got everything back together last month. The Daytona clone now has some serious giddy up. Plans for my old 440... I have a 88 RC 4x4 in beautiful condition with a tired 318.Will be doing an engine swap this winter.