Emergency flasher switch

[phantom]

Is this switch just a 2 pole toggle switch? Have a custom dash, and planning to use aftermarket switching. I have a complete Painless wiring kit, with 4 wires dedicated to the original switch:

* Black: power B+
* White: from brake switch (which im still unsure of where is located, surely it must be the one on the brake pedal and not the brake dist.valve??)
* Tan: left front blinker
* Light green: right front blinker.

The kit came with two flashers too, one for the blinkers and one for the hazard, but they look identical though 

Sound right?

[Nacho-RT74]

B should be power FROM hazzard flasher
W should be spliced to link both, brakes pedal switch and turning switch. This allows to get just one output for both rear ( L and R ) tail lights at hazzard flasher switch then being spliced into the column turning switch to feed each side ( Dark Brown and Dark Green ). That allows also to be able to press brakes and still light up still with hazzards on.

T and G pretty much explains themself

Flashers can look the same BUT usually hazzards are set as Heavy duty with a green band, to indicate they are allowed to hold the 6 bulbs load.

[phantom]

You are absolutely correct, in the Painless schematics it says that the starting point of the black B+ is the emergency flasher relay. All of the forementioned colours are starting points, for example the white: comes from brake switch. Thanks But does that mean that i can use a 2 pole toggle switch to make this work? I cant tell any difference from the original.

[440]

Can you do a continuity test on the switch with a multimeter to confirm?

[phantom]

I dont have a switch yet. Need to buy one, but i want to know how the original works first.

[440]

That's exactly why you should test the original switch, it will tell you what type of switch it is.

Here's a video I found of how to test it, your switch will be different but the principal is the same on finding out what pole/throw it is.

https://youtu.be/jegykkfW2RA

https://spemco.com/blog/single-pole-triple-throw-triple-pole-single-throw-spst-dpdt-etc-how-to-tell-the-difference/

[Nacho-RT74]

It is not a 2 pole switch, it is actually somehow a 3 pole switch. It gets actually one input and 3 outputs.

1 input, the batt/flasher source

The other ones are three individual outputs. It must be like that because if not, when you tun on some side blinker at turning switch, the outputs at flasher switch will link them, so will blink both sides.

[440]

That would make it a 3PST switch. Three pole, Single Throw

[phantom]

Thanks guys 😉 I dont have the original switch to test, thats why i was wondering how it works ☺ Nacho-RT74, that makes sense. Will get me a switch like that and hopefully it will work

[Nacho-RT74]

I meant somehow 3 pole switch because it gets just one input. A 3 pole switch will get 3 diff inputs allong with 3 outputs. I guess a regular 3 PST switch will require to jump out all three inputs.

Need to note I NEVER have tested or even have had in hands this switch, but my coclusion comes from the diagram analysis long time ago.

[440]

Going by the diagram you are correct Nacho. One side of the switch would all be jumped from the same input. The three outputs would all be seperate.

Technically you should be able to bundle all 3 outputs into one but then your messing with the circuits, ie possibly overloading the switch or possibly linking seperately fused circuits together.

[Nacho-RT74]

is not posible to bundle all 3 outputs together but just because will make everything to work together... brakes, tunring and hazzards, will light on EVERONE at the same time no matter which one you turn on. So when you press brakes, will light on front turnings and even the pilot lights on cluster... and same for everything, if you turn on one side blinkers, etc...

then, it floats on also all the circuits loads etc... Fuses are not really a problem, since they will hold ( 20 amps are enough for 6 bulbs plus the cluster ones ). Hazzard flasher already holds 6 bulbs, but turning flasher maybe is not that good to hold the load, of course, assuming the correct flashers are being used. AND if you turn on side blikers, as mentioned, all 4 ways will light on

[440]

I haven't studied the hazzard circuit in detail but it would affect all 3 if voltage was running seperately through the grouped wires, ie continuing through the two tans and two light green. Linking them together in that case would cause problems.

If they both terminate at the switch and aren't activated until switched it would make no difference.

[phantom]

I would think that if i were to link the three outputs together, i wouldnt make a difference until the switch is activated. When the switch is not activated, the three outputs are separated. Or are the turn signals and brake signals supposed to go through, and the hazard switch, when turned on, will oversteer the signals and make everything flash?

[Nacho-RT74]

the outputs NEEDS to be separated between them, and just linked between them when hazzard flasher ( input ) is linked to them. If outputs are allways linked between them, will make to work all lights together no mater where it comes the signal, i.e. brakes... As soon you give brakes, the white wire will be energized and will feed tan and green which are both fronts ( and cluster indicators ). Same will happen with turnings

[phantom]

Ok, thanks I ordered an aftermarket hazard switch with lots of separate outputs, should work.

[phantom]

Hi.
Pulling up an old thread.

I bought an aftermarket hazard switch, but couldnt get it to work. So i got an OEM from Ebay, just to find out that it didnt work either. But then i tried with the turn lever up (blinking right), and then the hazard suddenly worked. It works only when the turn lever is up/down, never alone. Is this the way its supposed to work??

[Bronzedodge]

Definitely not.  Something is amiss.

[Bronzedodge]

Do you have a working dome and stop lights?  They are both fed by the same fuse, along w the hazard flasher.  It's fed by the constant hot from the fuse block.

[phantom]

Damn, i was hoping that was the way they were supposed to work, because alot of other Mopar owners i asked today have the same issue    Common problem?

I have Painless 21-circuit harness installed, but yes, those are on the same fuse, and work.

The harness is pre-connected with two flasher sockets, just stuff in the flashers.  But both flashers are the same (heavy duty), should one of them be like a 4 way flasher? And i`m not measuring any voltage on either connector on the flasher to the hazards, but on the blinker flasher i measure 12v on both connectors.  

Blinker flasher has red/brown and hazard flasher has black/purple. Both flashers click when i turn on blinkers left/right.

I can also pull the hazard flasher from its socket, and the hazards still come on if i push the button with the blinker to either direction. But if i pull the BLINKER flasher, everything dies. Sounds like the two circuits are mixed?

[Bronzedodge]

Both the hazard and turn flashers are physically the same, two connection, thermal flasher.  Your turn signals work - great.  If you energize both you will cross-feed.  This is typical, and does not indicate a problem.  If the stop lamp switch is open at the pedal, the hazards will stop, also normal.  Check there too.  I suspect a bad ground out at the lights first.

[phantom]

Thanks for all the good tips

I tried jumping 12v directly from the battery to the hazard switch B+ terminal, bypassing the flasher, and all the lamps turn on by just pushing the hazard switch, but without blinking of course. If i follow that black cable that sits on the B+ terminal, it goes to one connector on the flasher, and out from flasher goes a purple cable. Should this purple cable be hot? And why are BOTH cables going to the blinker flasher hot? Did they mix two cables at the Painless factory?

It really bothers me, cause i cannot get my car registered without the hazards working properly.

[Nacho-RT74]

The diff between hazzards and turning flashers is the load they are capable to handle. The green band calls it I think for heavy duty to hazzards ( 6 bulbs )

The red wire ( on original wiring, black on your wiring ) must be hot ALLWAYS as far the flasher is conected. It begins to blink as soon switch is activated due the load going through the flasher by the bulbs. That's what makes it get hot until open the circuit, cools down and closes circuit back, gets hot... But without bulbs load, the flasher must allow the power to go throught up to the switch, coming from batt side of fuse box.

about the problem... I think there is some wire at turning switch swaped around. It happened to a friend once down here with a replacement turning switch. Factory fail.

[A383Wing]

You do realize that there are 2 separate flashers in the cars.....one for turn signals, the other for hazards.....both are wired differently

Turn signal flasher wired to "key on" circuit

Hazard flasher is always connected to 12v hot circuit in fuse box

Bryan

[Nacho-RT74]

[phantom]

 About that, the turnsignal works with the key off. Should only work when key is on, right? There must be something wrong with the harness. Seems like the power for the hazard flasher is connected to the turnsignal flasher, and vice versa. The sockets for both flashers are pre-connected from Painless, all i had to do was sticking the flashers in place. I dont have the blinkers on the hood installed,  would those two bulbs make a difference?

I have to investigate some more  

[Nacho-RT74]

Hood bulbs, same as cluster bulbs won't make a huge diff. The load they suck is minimal, 1.5 to 2 watts each. Rest are 21 watts each.

Turnings gets power from acc source, hazzards from batt/alt system

[phantom]

Found the problem. I put 12v directly to the purple cable that goes to the hazard flasher and pressed the button and voilá: ny hazards work.