News:

It appears that the upgrade forces a login and many, many of you have forgotten your passwords and didn't set up any reminders. Contact me directly through helpmelogin@dodgecharger.com and I'll help sort it out.

Main Menu

removing engine

Started by John G, May 29, 2018, 06:18:21 PM

Previous topic - Next topic

John G

this is for an opinion on removing a 383 4 speed.

Not that I am going to do it but I am getting different takes. My exhaust manifold needs to be worked on - it is leaking. I feel the best way to fix is removing the engine. Some say it can be done from above but the tranny has to come out too. Others say the only way is to drop it.

Just thought I would get some advice before getting it done.

thanks

Johnny G

AKcharger

Not sure if there's more to this question I'm missing but of course you can pull the engine/Trans from above. People including myself have been doing that for 40 years.

Dropping the engine while attached to the K member is pretty slick but is a LOT of work considering the suspension/brakes need to be removed/disconnected

Cheers!

Now if it's just a leaky/bad manifold the engine doesn't need to come out for that, it can be fixed on car. Even worse case there's a broken bolt just remove the head on affected side...a LOT less grief

John G

thanks for the reply 

yes we are hoping to correct the leak without removing the engine but those nuts look pretty rusted. Starting to soak them with rust buster but it is a bit difficult to angle the spray on the center ones ( its the passenger side).

Will post my progress

Thanks again

Johm

Dino

Heat up the engine and use a quick impact burst on the manifold bolts to break them loose. Worked for me.
Extraordinary claims require extraordinary evidence.

John G


Troy

You can pull just the engine from the top too. No need for the trans to come out. Leave the bell housing, flywheel, clutch, etc. on the engine.

Troy
Sarcasm detector, that's a real good invention.

John G

Hi Troy and thanks for this info.

I did manage to get to the bolts and replaced the gasket. Unfortunately the clacking noise didn't go away and there was some steaming which I guess is the anti freeze is leaking.

It's a bit tough for me to work on but I am hoping to get a friend to come over and help.

Thanks Again

John G

Hi all   following up on my exhaust leak  I am able to see that the last three bolts towards the rear seam to be the ones steaming. I just put them back in. should I have put some type of gasket sealer to help stop this?  and if so could you please recommend what to use?

Finally if i have to remove them will I be able to remove one so that the anti freeze will drain out so that the remaining two wont leak out?

Hope I'm not confusing! 
thanks

John G 

Dino

Just drain some of the coolant. Use Permatex Ultra Copper on the header bolts penetrating the water jacket.
Extraordinary claims require extraordinary evidence.

John G

ok so I can just drain the radiator?  this way when I take out the bolts nothing should come out?

thanks

Dino

Correct

You don't have to drain all of it, just enough to get the water level below the bolts. Or this might be the time to flush the cooling system and renew the fluids if it needs it.
Extraordinary claims require extraordinary evidence.