Opinions on 2 post lifts

[66FBCharger]

I am looking at buying a 2 post lift , hopefully, by the end of the summer.
I am considering a Rotary or a Bendpak. I am leaning towards the Bendpak. What do you have? What do you like and what do you dislike? Why did you pick that brand?
Give me the pros and cons between the symmetrical and asymmetrical. I am primarily going to use this lift for my 70 road runner, 69 Charger r/t and '73 'cuda. I am also planning to do routine maintenance ( oil changes, tire rotation, etc.) on our '13 Dart and '17 Challenger GT.
Should I consider a low profile lift because of the newer cars?
Thanks

[INTMD8]

I've had a 2 post asymmetrical bend pak for over 10 years and it's been perfect.

Heard at some point they changed where/who was actually manufacturing them? Not sure on that completely but can't say the ones they make today are exactly the same as what they used to make.

I ordered mine with low profile lift arms and for what I work on, definitely necessary.

I don't think there's any pros to a symmetrical lift. Maybe safer for huge trucks or stuff with a lot of weight?

Rotary is top notch as well, don't think you will go wrong with either.

[John_Kunkel]

I chose an asymmetric because you can open the doors a little while the car is on the lift. I have an Eagle 9000 lb. installed in 1998.

https://www.eagleequip.com/product/EAGTIA_MTP-9C.html

[hemigeno]

I purchased an asymmetric for the same reason as John.  Mine is a Challenger Versymmetric CL10 (10,000# capacity), installed in 2004.  In addition to musclecars, diesel pickups & Jeeps, I've also had my daughter's 2015 Dart on it with no clearance issues.

http://www.challengerlifts.com/products/cl10v3-series/

[69 OUR/TEA]

I am no expert on lifts , but want to say this , unless I'm wrong ,  symmetrical basically centers the load , asymmetrical offsets the loads so as said , you can open the doors . Hence more weight is hanging on one side of the lift . In my mind , this is " pulling stress " on your floor . I've been to your house John , is your garage floor just a standard 4" slab ? If I were to have chosen an asymmetrical lift , I'd want that floor thicker than the norm . Either way , in my situation , I had to go with the Bendpak low ceiling and narrow lift to fit it where I wanted it to be and at that when I did the floor , I made it 9'' thick in that area just be extra sound , and used 7'' long bolts instead of the ones that came with the lift .

[INTMD8]

I am no expert on lifts , but want to say this , unless I'm wrong ,  symmetrical basically centers the load , asymmetrical offsets the loads so as said , you can open the doors . Hence more weight is hanging on one side of the lift . In my mind , this is " pulling stress " on your floor . I've been to your house John , is your garage floor just a standard 4" slab ? If I were to have chosen an asymmetrical lift , I'd want that floor thicker than the norm . Either way , in my situation , I had to go with the Bendpak low ceiling and narrow lift to fit it where I wanted it to be and at that when I did the floor , I made it 9'' thick in that area just be extra sound , and used 7'' long bolts instead of the ones that came with the lift .

Actually symmetric centers the car to the lift.

To center the load with the car centered on the lift that would mean it has perfect 50/50 weight distribution.

What are these cars? 60/40 front to back?   So shifting the car back in relation to the uprights (as with asymmetric lift) is more of a centered load on the uprights than a symmetric lift.

Either way a non-issue if your floor meets minimum spec.  More of an inward bending load on a 2 post lift with no top crossbar (which isn't all of course but just an example) than any front to back load due to offset weight.

[John_Kunkel]

Most 2-post lifts specify a minimum 4" thick slab of 3000 psi concrete. Problem is, many so-called 4" slabs are poured using a 3 1/2" wide 2 X 4 as a screed. I know of several lifts installed on 3 1/2" concrete and they're not toppling over. 

[66FBCharger]

I am no expert on lifts , but want to say this , unless I'm wrong ,  symmetrical basically centers the load , asymmetrical offsets the loads so as said , you can open the doors . Hence more weight is hanging on one side of the lift . In my mind , this is " pulling stress " on your floor . I've been to your house John , is your garage floor just a standard 4" slab ? If I were to have chosen an asymmetrical lift , I'd want that floor thicker than the norm . Either way , in my situation , I had to go with the Bendpak low ceiling and narrow lift to fit it where I wanted it to be and at that when I did the floor , I made it 9'' thick in that area just be extra sound , and used 7'' long bolts instead of the ones that came with the lift .

Paul,
My floor is 4" min. of 3000psi concrete. At some point I would like to come over and check your lifts out.

The few lifts I have looked at call for 4" of 3000 psi concrete for a 10,000# lift. The Rotary used six 3/4" anchors per side. I would think there is a large safety factor with lifts.

[69 OUR/TEA]

I am no expert on lifts , but want to say this , unless I'm wrong ,  symmetrical basically centers the load , asymmetrical offsets the loads so as said , you can open the doors . Hence more weight is hanging on one side of the lift . In my mind , this is " pulling stress " on your floor . I've been to your house John , is your garage floor just a standard 4" slab ? If I were to have chosen an asymmetrical lift , I'd want that floor thicker than the norm . Either way , in my situation , I had to go with the Bendpak low ceiling and narrow lift to fit it where I wanted it to be and at that when I did the floor , I made it 9'' thick in that area just be extra sound , and used 7'' long bolts instead of the ones that came with the lift .

Paul,
My floor is 4" min. of 3000psi concrete. At some point I would like to come over and check your lifts out.

The few lifts I have looked at call for 4" of 3000 psi concrete for a 10,000# lift. The Rotary used six 3/4" anchors per side. I would think there is a large safety factor with lifts.

OK , that's good , first part is knowing you have a good floor to put it on . Contact me when you might want to stop by .

[69 OUR/TEA]

I am no expert on lifts , but want to say this , unless I'm wrong ,  symmetrical basically centers the load , asymmetrical offsets the loads so as said , you can open the doors . Hence more weight is hanging on one side of the lift . In my mind , this is " pulling stress " on your floor . I've been to your house John , is your garage floor just a standard 4" slab ? If I were to have chosen an asymmetrical lift , I'd want that floor thicker than the norm . Either way , in my situation , I had to go with the Bendpak low ceiling and narrow lift to fit it where I wanted it to be and at that when I did the floor , I made it 9'' thick in that area just be extra sound , and used 7'' long bolts instead of the ones that came with the lift .

Actually symmetric centers the car to the lift.

To center the load with the car centered on the lift that would mean it has perfect 50/50 weight distribution.

What are these cars? 60/40 front to back?   So shifting the car back in relation to the uprights (as with asymmetric lift) is more of a centered load on the uprights than a symmetric lift.

Either way a non-issue if your floor meets minimum spec.  More of an inward bending load on a 2 post lift with no top crossbar (which isn't all of course but just an example) than any front to back load due to offset weight.

That's basically what I meant , the car is 50/50 on a symmetric . When I put cars on my 2 post , I get it to where it is balancing approx. 50/50 , regardless of where the doors are .

[J.Bond]

Rotary symmetrical here, no reason for asymmetrical for me, as I'm small framed individual. Have had my 2 post for 12 or 14  so years, would prefer a 2 post over a 4 post for ease of wheel removal, rear end removal, k frame, motor removal, etc, however, as I age, I no longer look forward to loading a vehicle on the hoist. A 2 post means, you are going to have to get down on a knee to set the arms to location, as opposed to just driving on...having my right knee ultra sounded next month.

[69 OUR/TEA]

Rotary symmetrical here, no reason for asymmetrical for me, as I'm small framed individual. Have had my 2 post for 12 or 14  so years, would prefer a 2 post over a 4 post for ease of wheel removal, rear end removal, k frame, motor removal, etc, however, as I age, I no longer look forward to loading a vehicle on the hoist. A 2 post means, you are going to have to get down on a knee to set the arms to location, as opposed to just driving on...having my right knee ultra sounded next month.

Agreed , 2 post because it offers you more you can do , but the 4 post lifts have the optional rolling jacks so you can take wheels off . With that said , I find myself using my 4 post more because of ease getting on/off quicker ( for doing oil changes) .NTM , when your car is on the 4 post , the runways now turn into tool shelves for you, very handy !!! Either way with the lifts , as long as you have the ceiling height , you also now gain another parking spot.

[John_Kunkel]

Bottom line, in an ideal world, you need one of each.

[INTMD8]

That's basically what I meant , the car is 50/50 on a symmetric . When I put cars on my 2 post , I get it to where it is balancing approx. 50/50 , regardless of where the doors are .

So you're loading it rolled back a bit in terms of center of lift to center of car?  Seems like you are setting it up as it would be on most asymmetric lifts then. Certainly possible on a symmetrical lift as long as the lift arms have enough extension.

[69 OUR/TEA]

That's basically what I meant , the car is 50/50 on a symmetric . When I put cars on my 2 post , I get it to where it is balancing approx. 50/50 , regardless of where the doors are .

So you're loading it rolled back a bit in terms of center of lift to center of car?  Seems like you are setting it up as it would be on most asymmetric lifts then. Certainly possible on a symmetrical lift as long as the lift arms have enough extension.

Not really , basically what I've found/done on 2wd cars , front engine drive ( Charger ) , the car is usually ending up on center ( the posts of lift center of car , middle of doors ) When I have put front wheel drives on it , I shifted them back just alittle knowing there is more weight offset to the front . Once a car or truck is on the lift I rock it to check if I like the balance . I have seen guys use the twist jacks , in front and back just to stabilize the car more if doing heavy removal (taking rear out ) .

[69 OUR/TEA]

Bottom line, in an ideal world, you need one of each.

I have ended up with three , 2 post , 4 post , and a mid rise scissor for doing bodywork on ( worth every penny ) !!! So I've used the mid rise the most , followed by the 4 post , then the 2 post . If you have a mid rise , you can easily do oil changes , tire swaps , brakes , etc . But would be hard to drop trans ( act might not even be able to ) . If you have a plain 2 car garage , can't fit a 4 post or 2 post , mid rise would be the way to go . You pull in the garage and basically just park over it all the time . You want to work on the car , it is already there under it for you !!! NTM , operates on 110 volt .

[RiverRaider]

 What do you have? What do you like and what do you dislike? Why did you pick that brand?

I have three lifts. Two single post in ground that were in the building when I bought it and I added an Atlas 9000lbs two post overhead lift from Greg Smith Equipment.
The single post in grounds have there place.  I have both straight I beam and X tops for them.  After adding the Atlas the other two see far less use, long term projects mostly.
On the Atlas the options available, information about the lift and price were important.  The super symmetric arms and the available extra width kit were the most important.
I would have went for the extra height kit if I had the ceiling room. The 11' 10" height was perfect for my 12' ceiling I have no issues with my lift,  the only regret-not buying it sooner.
I put it up myself but it would be an easy two person project.  My concrete was not an issue but the company sells additional floor brackets if that is a concern. 
The biggest vehicle I lift is my Ram 2500 v-10 quad cab 8ft box pickup and the widest is my steel deck car trailer.  Atlas-9OHSC-SS-Overhead-Two-Post-Car-Lift at just over $2000
would be hard to beat.  Most lifts I looked at were good and some awesome beasts. A lot of the lifts I had looked at were $3000-$7000 and if I wanted to spend that much I
would have put in a two post in ground.