Headlights won't go down fully, don't stay down, thoughts on how to fix?

[RammJaeger]

Hi all,

I have an issue with my Superbird that I just got that the headlights won't go down all the way, as seen in the attached picture. Is there a way to adjust this, and if so could someone share how?

The other issue is that a few minutes after turning the car off, the headlights pop up on their own. I have read that you can remove the spring from them to solve this issue, but I assume that the source issue is that there is some type of vacuum leak. Any tips on where to look, and where to get parts to fix if they are available?

Thanks!

[moparstuart]

remove the springs or at lease just release the tension on them ,  you dont need them 

[3--Daytona]

Got vacuum leak some where,,,start looking at head light switch

[timmycharger]

Also check for clogged vacuum lines if they are old. Blow some shop air through them if you have access to the switch and can take off the hoses from there. 

[hemigeno]

Are there shims on your headlight vacuum pods?  Seems like that might keep your headlights from retracting all the way down...?   

[RammJaeger]

Thanks for the feedback guys, and I will check the shims.

Can anyone say what the best way to get access to headlight vacuum pods is?

One thing to mention too, is that this car has apparently had this problem for over 40 years. The attached pictures is from 1977.

[DAY CLONA]

Thanks for the feedback guys, and I will check the shims.

Can anyone say what the best way to get access to headlight vacuum pods is?

One thing to mention too, is that this car has apparently had this problem for over 40 years. The attached pictures is from 1977.

If the headlight doors are fully closed when the engine is running, chances are any assembly/adjustments/alignments are fine,the common areas for wingcar "lazy eye" are the dash switch, not the electrical portion but the white plastic slider added to the switch and it's rocker, repairs/rebuilds are often useless or short term, repros are avaliable, or if you can find an NOS switch or slider, that would be your best bet if it's the culprit, 2nd area is usually a rotted vacuum reserve can located under the battery tray, again repros are available if needed, NOS also if you can find it, 3rd is hoses/vac harness, if the lines are dry rotted/cracking, chances are they are leaking, repros are available... last on the list is the vacuum pods themselves, pods are very rarely the culprit, but can not be ruled out, you don't want the repro pods, either nice used, NOS or have them repaired by Wilson Airgrabber Productions

Access to the headlight pods?, hope you have long arms and are flexible!  if you want to access the rear of the pods or the headlight springs/brackets, your best off removing the latch tray, you might find that you'll generally have to remove the front center grille screen as well to access some of the latchtray fastners/wiring/clips/etc, if you have a lift, you could remove the lower valance corner and jamb yourself up into the cones internals, either way or employing all 3 methods, it's not fun or easy...welcome to one of the horrors of wingcar maintenance!

If you need to remove a headlight pod, it removes obviously from the back of the bucket with 4 bolts, but you'll need to remove the headlight bulbs and cups first so that you can access the front vacuum line on the pod to remove it, as well as the small clevis pin and clip thru the headlight outer door, long needle nose plyers and assorted other types of tools will be needed, along with small child sized hands...again another fun chore, usually there's 3 washers/spacers on each screw/bolt holding the pod bracket to the light bucket, these will fall out and find good hiding spots, so best to put a bucket/cloth under the light bucket area to catch them, when installing them, it's best to superglue them to the headlight pod bracket so you can keep your sanity when putting these things back together...

if your going to tackle a particular area, just ask here on the aero forum, we've all had to do it at one time and learn the best methods and what pitfalls to avoid...

Mike

[PettyMower]

I drive my car, including at night. And because of that I refuse to remove the springs. They are there to hold the buckets up in case of a vacuum issue while driving at night.

My buckets will creep up over time, and I've traced the microscopic leak to the switch. (I can pull a vacuum on the buckets alone and they remain down forever.)

Anyway, I made a lanyard that attaches to the bucket on one end, and an extension spring on the other. The lanyard travels through the drain hole in the bottom of the bucket area, and the loop of the spring clips on the threads of a bolt on the subframe.

By the way, if you remove the springs, you will have a little more "bounce" of the buckets while driving at night.

If the car is not going to be a driver, or driven at night, remove the springs.

[odcics2]

The filaments in the headlights will have a shorter life w/o the spring.   

[odcics2]

Thanks for the feedback guys, and I will check the shims.

Can anyone say what the best way to get access to headlight vacuum pods is?

One thing to mention too, is that this car has apparently had this problem for over 40 years. The attached pictures is from 1977.

If the headlight doors are fully closed when the engine is running, chances are any assembly/adjustments/alignments are fine,the common areas for wingcar "lazy eye" are the dash switch, not the electrical portion but the white plastic slider added to the switch and it's rocker, repairs/rebuilds are often useless or short term, repros are avaliable, or if you can find an NOS switch or slider, that would be your best bet if it's the culprit, 2nd area is usually a rotted vacuum reserve can located under the battery tray, again repros are available if needed, NOS also if you can find it, 3rd is hoses/vac harness, if the lines are dry rotted/cracking, chances are they are leaking, repros are available... last on the list is the vacuum pods themselves, pods are very rarely the culprit, but can not be ruled out, you don't want the repro pods, either nice used, NOS or have them repaired by Wilson Airgrabber Productions

NOS vac switch, if needed - http://www.dodgecharger.com/forum/index.php/topic,131305.0.html

[Aero426]

The filaments in the headlights will have a shorter life w/o the spring.   

I still have original 1970 installed Westinghouse bulbs and no springs since 1988.

I have never had a problem with "headlight bounce" at night.    There is enough vacuum to hold them up solid.   

I agree you want to make sure the system components are in working order.    Buying that NOS slider is a good part to have on hand.   

[RammJaeger]

NOS vac switch, if needed - http://www.dodgecharger.com/forum/index.php/topic,131305.0.html

Looks like I didn't move fast enough. It is already sold correct?

[DAY CLONA]

NOS vac switch, if needed - http://www.dodgecharger.com/forum/index.php/topic,131305.0.html

Looks like I didn't move fast enough. It is already sold correct?

Correct, but new repro is still available...

[odcics2]

NOS vac switch, if needed - http://www.dodgecharger.com/forum/index.php/topic,131305.0.html

Looks like I didn't move fast enough. It is already sold correct?

Correct.  I only had one... 

[Wingnut426]

I have an NOS vacuum switch if you need one. VEIGHTPETE@GMAIL.COM

[Aero426]

Correct, but new repro is still available...

Are the reproductions any good?    The Chinese could not make vacuum actuators that worked properly.   

[odcics2]

The filaments in the headlights will have a shorter life w/o the spring.   

I still have original 1970 installed Westinghouse bulbs and no springs since 1988.

I have never had a problem with "headlight bounce" at night.    There is enough vacuum to hold them up solid.   

I agree you want to make sure the system components are in working order.    Buying that NOS slider is a good part to have on hand.   

If you have no bounce, yes, they will last ok.
If you have bounce, they won't!   Think how long a trouble light works with a regular light bulb versus a "rough service" unit.

[Aero426]

If you have no bounce, yes, they will last ok.
If you have bounce, they won't!   Think how long a trouble light works with a regular light bulb versus a "rough service" unit.

Actually, there are NO light bulbs in a trouble light that seem to last very long these days.   

[70 sublime]

If you have no bounce, yes, they will last ok.
If you have bounce, they won't!   Think how long a trouble light works with a regular light bulb versus a "rough service" unit.

Actually, there are NO light bulbs in a trouble light that seem to last very long these days.   

I had the same problem with my trouble light
I ended up buying an LED bulb that is the same shape as a light bulb but is thin ( like you sliced the two sides off it)
I have dropped it ten times now and it still works 

[A383Wing]

I never put the pop-up springs in my car.....never had a problem with bounce or anything

[odcics2]

If you have no bounce, yes, they will last ok.
If you have bounce, they won't!   Think how long a trouble light works with a regular light bulb versus a "rough service" unit.

Actually, there are NO light bulbs in a trouble light that seem to last very long these days.   

New fangled stuff!   

I still use my old stuff from the 70s!  Have a few rough service bulbs left from then!  My 1.5 ton Sears jack still works fine, too!   

[WINGIN IT]

Correct, but new repro is still available...

Are the reproductions any good?    The Chinese could not make vacuum actuators that worked properly.   

Last repro I got was crap!

Installed the original back in.

[hemi68charger]

Could it be that the bucket just needs to be adjusted and pivoted with the bottom going back a little? That would bring the leading door edge when in the closed position down a little more, thus lining up with the headlamp bucket door opening on the nose?

[nascarxx29]

You can rotate those circle end plates on buckets to get better fit and check end plastic bushings

[nascarxx29]

Unhook actuator from pivot bracket and check headlight for binding.Also check where end of actuator connects to pivot bracket.Also seen where headlight bucket bolts where not 1'4 diameter.And bucket couldn't be moved much to adjust headlight opening.Do the  best you can these headlight doors warp over the years.And hard to achieve perfect gaps and fit