Question, ign 2 and starter relay.

[clausoe]

Does anyone know why there is two separate wires all the way from the ignition switch, one feeding the starter relay and one 12 volt directly to the coil while cranking? I have been troubled with the coil not getting 12 volts while cranking and wondered if I could connect on to the yellow wire that goes to the starter relay.

[Nacho-RT74]

12 volts directly to coil is a brown wire that feeds with complete 12 volts bypassing the ballast resistor to get a better spark at start moment. You can see the spliced brwon wire on ballast resistor output, one cames from ignition at start moment and the other goes to coil. Once you get back to RUN position on ignition, ballast feeds the coil trought same brown wire up to coil with around 9 volts, and source is blue wire ballast input coming also from ignition on RUN position, no more brown wire direct source coming from ignition.

You can get same power from yellow starter relay wire... theorically yes, since both brown and yellow wires have power at the same time on start position. Now I'll do it: defintelly no...maybe yellow wire can drive the enough power to feed starter and coil at same time for that little instant, yes... but WHY NOT FIX DEFINITELLY THE BROWN WIRE ? is just ONE WIRE running from ignition switch up to ballast resistor throught bulkhead and from there to coil.

Don't let the brown wire wins against to you... IS JUST ONE WIRE WITHOUT ANYKIND OF SPLICE ALONG THE TRACE.

[clausoe]

Both my bulkhead connector, wiring and the ignition switch is not to be trusted. My thought is that if I connected a wire between the + on the coil to the yellow wire I would be certain that if the starter motor was turning there would also be direct current to the coil. I am not certain the yellow wire is thick enough.

[Nacho-RT74]

yellow wire only drives a small power signal to close circuit on starter relay, not really to dirve power, that's why you have a relay there.

if you try to test something, I would make a jumper wire between brown and yellow wires at ignition switch plug... if you get power there then ignition switch it could be the damaged stuff since you are testing at that moment the brown wire from there up to coil.

If you don't get power on coil making that jumper on ignition swicth plug, then problem is wiring.

[John_Kunkel]

Both my bulkhead connector, wiring and the ignition switch is not to be trusted. My thought is that if I connected a wire between the + on the coil to the yellow wire I would be certain that if the starter motor was turning there would also be direct current to the coil. I am not certain the yellow wire is thick enough.

The problem with that is that the yellow wire will be energized by the ignition system and will keep the relay energized after the start signal from the key is shut off. (back feed)

[Animal]

Just carry out a continuity test at brown wire at ignition switch to same brown wire at ballast.(disconnect first) If you don't have continuity,the wire has a break & I bet it's at the firewall plug.
Good luck.Adam.

[Nacho-RT74]

The problem with that is that the yellow wire will be energized by the ignition system and will keep the relay energized after the start signal from the key is shut off. (back feed)

OH yes... brown wire is allways energized on one or another way ( both ignition positions ) once car is started by the ballats with the blue wire, so if you hook brown wire/ positive side of coil up to yellow wire, starter motor will never stop.

[clausoe]

Of course, I wouldn't want the starter to stay on when I let go of the key. I bought a relay and connected it so it is activated by the yellow wire and feeds fresh 12 v power to the coil on startup.

[Animal]

why don't you just solve original problem.

[clausoe]

I'll be doing that. The problem is the ignition switch so I will be getting a new one. I did the relay thing because  SUMMER HAS ARRIVED  here in norway and I want to drive my car.

[Animal]

Can't blame you for that.