Testing clock

[BrugeeRT]

Can someone tell me how I can test my dash clock?
Is it with 5v?  Thank you.

[Bad B-rad]

I THINK, I have watched guys use a 9V battery(small square one)and I think it has a set of "points" in it, that the voltage is only used for a second, when the points are closed, then the spring resets, points pop open, and it winds around again.
But it has been a WHILE.

[Obi Ben Dover]

Yup, your factory clock has a set of points in it, which is why most of them don't work just like like a 1966 - 1972 car with original points that have not been maintained won't run.
You will most likely need to disassemble the clock and clean the contacts to get it too work. Your best bet is to convert it too quartz because even if you do get the original movement to work it will be short lived.

[birdsandbees]

My "OEM Licenced" repop only runs with 12 volts applied. Guess they took the old points / spring system out. Giving thoughts to rebuilding my original. This new one will run my battery down...

[70 sublime]

Mixed feelings on a clock
How many guys park their car and unhook the battery
I always seem to unhook battery as my car parks in my garage that is attached to my house
If anything stupid was to happen with the wiring harness my house would go up with it
I would just never reset the time ever time I took the car out

[Nacho-RT74]

Clock is really a mechanical system but is winded by an electric short. Works with allmost any DC voltage since the points system is amplified by a solenoid what with a short caused by the points closed, winds up the points what are linked to the coil springs attached to the clock gears. Every time these points get closed and there is voltage there will cause the short what wind up the points then the clock spring again. Gears system will be closing the points progresivelly while clock is working. This uses to happen every minute or so while mounted on car.

You can source it with a 9 volts batt and check if the points system is working able to wind up the spring and make the clock work untill stops. If batt is stil sourcing, will wind up the system again. If not, the clock will stop there up to the points closed.

[Troy]

I believe the clock itself is 12v. I think it's the one wire in the cluster (other than the lights) that doesn't go through the little regulator for the gauges. I'll have to check the wiring diagrams.

Troy

[Nacho-RT74]

on 3rd gens, the source is 12v from fuse box on standard clusters, and straight from ammeter on rallye cluster

yes is 12 volts but virtually any voltage will windup the points to the coil spring, just that the less voltage, less wind up to the spring, more clicks and shorts to the points. A 9 volts batt will work to the test... or simply source it from any car battery, neg to chassis, pos to the clock prong. You don't even need to keep it sourced, just small touch on batt to spread the points ( a click will be heard from inside ) and the clock will work. You can separate from the power and will keep working for a minute or so, untill points close up internally waiting for the power to be winded up again

[BrugeeRT]

Thanks for all the responses!  I love this board.  Based on all that I read that it was almost a lost cause to fix the clock, I ordered a new quartz one from Instrument Services Inc.  The good thing is they say the amp draw is only 3 milliamps on the battery.  I will try the 9 volt in the meantime.

[John_Kunkel]

This new one will run my battery down...

I did a lot of quartz conversions back when JC Whitney had the conversion kits for $30. Never had a problem with battery drain...look how long wrist watches run on a pill battery.

[alfaitalia]

A typical 12v car quartz clock movement pulls about 5mA....so on a fairly average 50aH battery it would run for about 10,000 hours...or about 417 days! So as long as you run your car or charge your battery about every 6 months it wont be an issue!!!

[Nacho-RT74]

sometimes the clock fix is so easy than clean or replace the points. The solenoid failure comes when the points get stuck. This failure can cause a solenoid base melt ( which is plastic ) due the overheat caused by the continuous short on the stuck points, OR the easier just the wire cut like a fuse blown close to the coil ends, which usuailly uncoiling one turn and resold makes the fix, or solding a wire section ( same gauge ) on the blown area... as far the points can be saved.

BTDT. I made to fix one several times BUT didn't hold for long time because never replaced the points, just a light sand over the burn spot on points surface. I simply "never found" the best way to replace the points without tooling or find points to replace

[Dino]

If my clock doesn't get 12 volts it won't run properly. 9 won't cut it. I did change the guts to quartz though. I run a separate wire to the clock so it's always powered.

[A383Wing]

BTDT. I made to fix one several times BUT didn't hold for long time because never replaced the points, just a light sand over the burn spot on points surface. I simply "never found" the best way to replace the points without tooling or find points to replace

I have replaced the points on many clocks.....I use the "points" from a 5v instrument cluster regulator and just solder them in....

Bryan

[Nacho-RT74]

BTDT. I made to fix one several times BUT didn't hold for long time because never replaced the points, just a light sand over the burn spot on points surface. I simply "never found" the best way to replace the points without tooling or find points to replace

I have replaced the points on many clocks.....I use the "points" from a 5v instrument cluster regulator and just solder them in....

Bryan

Good idea!!!

that makes me think now on a more accesible donor... turn signal flashers ?

[A383Wing]

good question....I've never torn a turn signal flasher apart before....are they set up like an instrument cluster voltage regulator?

[Nacho-RT74]

Yes, same principle... just way slower rates, So probably will hold higher temps?

Editing!

Actually they heat with the load going through them due the bulbs consumption, not with - and + short straight to the points, but should work

And, well, dist points should work too.

[BrugeeRT]

So the quartz conversion is in and I bench tested it.  What is the proper way to ground it?  I used an alligator clip to the case for negative to test.  There is a hole next to the positive post.  Bolt negative here? 

[Nacho-RT74]

on car, the clock gets grounded via chassis through the screws and mounting plate and positive to the prong...

[70 sublime]

So the quartz conversion is in and I bench tested it.  What is the proper way to ground it?  I used an alligator clip to the case for negative to test.  There is a hole next to the positive post.  Bolt negative here? 

Is there a place for a light bulb to plug in like an original clock ?

[Nacho-RT74]

I think what he got is not the full assembly, but just the mechanism, so preserves the stock housing.

[Dino]

The clock housing remains the same, only the clock internals are upgraded. Lighting is the same, grounding is still through the housing and into the dash frame. I hesitated to do the conversion initially because I like the old ticking clock, quartz is a step less system. But I had to reset the clock every single day, it just would not keep time. Glad I upgraded now!

[BrugeeRT]

Yes, just the internals got changed out.  Housing with placement for bulb stayed the same.

[375instroke]

The few I've had were just gummed up, not the points, but the gears.  The spring was wound, so I just sprayed electrical cleaner, then WD-40 in it, and it worked fine.