Pink wire

[paspau]

Nacho You are THE man

I will check out what parts i'm missing and will post it.

But to other guestion.
Today I checked how my oil, temperature and fuel gauges work... But they didn't.
I checked my papers and noticed that there is one yellow socket where goes two wires and leave three wires.
I am missing that one wire. Am I right if I say that it is the problem why those gauges is doing nothing?.
I tested regulator before I assembled it (there is +5 and +12 volts). But now there is coming any volts...
Only gauge that is working is AMP.

[Nacho-RT74]

no...

gauges are being feeded buy a voltage limiter attached on back of cluster what becomes the 12 volts source to 5 RMS volts by this piece with its harness and peak absorver/noise reducer condenser



that thing spreads the +5 volts RMS to each gauge. Senders send variable ground values to move the needle

That piece must get a ground wire to the prong at bracket and positive source to the bakelite prong. Both on underdash harness. Both are black BUT ground feed is a wider prong plug to not conect them backward and BOTH are important.

IF you get 12 volts at the black wire feeding the bakelite prong then you can get a damaged voltage limiter

The danger on this is a damaged voltage limiter can feed straight 12 volts to all the gauges and if does, they are already burnt. If the limiter misses the ground signal, also can burn the gauges even being in good conditions

this 12 volts cames from an accesories source.

now... the yellow wiring... not sure which one you meant. There are two yellow wirings "networks" on underdash system... Door jam switch ground AND a wire that feeds ign key courtesy light, controled by a relay flasher with 3 prongs ( one of them getting a pink wire )

[paspau]

Here is a picture where you can see that yellow mold...
Isn't that right one?

[paspau]

And the other side... As you can see that wire goes to the G120-BK which goes to the voltage limiter?

[Nacho-RT74]

Oh! You meant yellow MOLD itself!

Sorry! I thought on yellow wiring!

Yes that's accesories source. That mold shares same accesories source coming from same fuse to feed the voltage limiter and whatever acc you connect on that mold, such as rear deffog, air conditioning compressor clutch, and in my case, used that same mold to connect a powered trunk latch. On diagram states to be used to power the tach when equipped. If no options, this mold will be empty.

You can miss the mold, but... we don't know if the wiring on back is really missed?

Maybe the mold was cut and the splice where tan and black wires are together into the mold are loosen around. And that could be very well the reason to not get the power up to the voltage limiter.

The mold should be around the steering column/pedal brake brackets area if my memory is good

[Nacho-RT74]

This is an E body harness but is pretty much the same than our B body harness.

Check the first pic and you'll notice the yellow mold. Your one should be around same area.

https://www.ebay.com/itm/70-74-Challenger-Cuda-E-body-Rallye-Dash-Wiring-Harness-A-C-3-speaker-Rare-/152180241758

[Nacho-RT74]

somebody on another thread posted a pic which BY CASUALITY gets the yellow mold visible

[paspau]

Yes, I found that yellow mold.
There was two wires attached to that. I believe that those was rear defog and air conditioning.
There was no fuse connected. Well I connected a new 20amp fuse.

It burned as soon as I turned key.

There is no air conditioning connected. And rear defogger switch was broken (I ordered new one already).

So I think that fuse blows beacause of those broken things...

[Nacho-RT74]

unplugg those and check if the fuse doesn't blow to discard the underdash harness itself

the AC source from that mold is just for the compressor clutch, not for the blower. Blower gets sourced straight from another fuse

[paspau]

Thank's Nacho and everybody else!
Now this glovebox light is working. (Finally I got the right part from USA).

I have a few problems with rallye dash. Anyone have a good picture from back (where those wires are in right place).
Or if you have a good electrical diagram that would help me a lot...



Car is almost finished

[Nacho-RT74]

Housing has casted every color to the right gauge stud... even the sockets wire colour

and you got the diagram posted

Violet-temp
Blue-gas
gray-oil

Green wire socket... one side turning cavity
Tan wire socket, the other side turning cavity
Black small spade conector... +VL
Black big spade conector... -VR ( bracket prong )

big gauge red and black wires... ammeter ( housing gets RED label casted... the other one is black )

all orange wire sockets, all orange casted label cavities

Emergency light sockets is unique one getting two wires and is fully plastic ( not metalic retainers like the rest )

Red wire socket... high beams indicator.

Voltage limiter pigtail with 90º terminals... one end to each gauge, unlabeled stud.

Everything is pretty much straight up

[paspau]

Somehow I have every wires black 
So it's hard to know where they should go. But you know... it's have been about 40 years that somebody has been making new wires or something... Hard to find out..

[Nacho-RT74]

That's not I can ( barelly ) see at the first pic you posted

[paspau]

I mean those wires that goes to gauges.
They are all black. But there reads a colour (back of the dash) that should go to that specific plug.
I have to take a picture from a back of the dash.

[Nacho-RT74]

well, maybe wires were fixed, splicing up some wires due an earlier damage. You can cut a bit the plastic black tape to track which one is which one and find the wiring colours.

ANYWAY... if you cross up those wires, won't get any damage, just diff gauge reading... like a temp reading at gas gauge ? LOL... ALL gauges works the same and responds the same to the voltage changes just the face changes to read oil, temp or gas. You can become a gas wire on temp wire if you cahnge the lettering LOL.

if you don't want to cut the tape ( I'll do it ) to track the color wire, it can be made grounding each sender wire end at a time. Let's say you ground the temp sender wire on engine bay, put the key in RUN and check what gauge comes up to max reading. That wire arriving to that gauge on back of cluster will correspond to the temp gauge, just swap it to the temp gauge... and do the same to the rest, for the oil sender and gas sender wires.

REMEMBER the voltage limiter output source pigtail is all black ( pic posted on reply #26 ), and drives the 5 volts positive to all gauges, to the unlabeled stud on back of cluster ( it can be reversed toght, but just for correctness ), while the senders works with variable negative/ground