Door skin sound deadener and panel bonding vs plug welding

[mopar4don]

I am getting ready to put door skins on and was wondering if I should (after epoxy priming the inside) apply some type of a sound deadener like lizard skin to the inside of the skins.

Also when I go to bend the outer lip over should I plug weld it like the factory did or would it be better to use a panel bond?
It was recommended to me to use 3M 8115 panel bond and weld the corners. Apparently the panel bond will give a corrosion resistant seal also.

Thanks
Don

[Dino]

Yes do use sound deadener. I have always liked the stick on 3M stuff but there's several options like the lizard skin.

The panel bond is totally fine and it does indeed push all the air out and seal it up. Still, after primer and before pain you want to properly seal the edges with a high quality sealer as well. I used 3M in the past, small tube, but that was well over 10 years ago.

[Charger-Bodie]

even thought im a big fan of panel bond,dont use on these easy to twist doors as it will lock it up and not allow for adjusting the door twist when aligning the panels. just do some plug weld that attach the crimp to the shell. being carful not to burn through to the outer skin.

[Dino]

even thought im a big fan of panel bond,dont use on these easy to twist doors as it will lock it up and not allow for adjusting the door twist when aligning the panels. just do some plug weld that attach the crimp to the shell. being carful not to burn through to the outer skin.

Ooh very good point!

[mopar4don]

Yes do use sound deadener. I have always liked the stick on 3M stuff but there's several options like the lizard skin.

The panel bond is totally fine and it does indeed push all the air out and seal it up. Still, after primer and before pain you want to properly seal the edges with a high quality sealer as well. I used 3M in the past, small tube, but that was well over 10 years ago.

Thanks Dino,
I called a local resto shop to see what they recommend and the guy told me if it were his car he would leave the inside in epoxy. No sound deadner.
His reasoning was, if the door was ever dented and needed repaired then it would be much easier to fix with no sound deadning especially like lizard skin.

even thought im a big fan of panel bond,dont use on these easy to twist doors as it will lock it up and not allow for adjusting the door twist when aligning the panels. just do some plug weld that attach the crimp to the shell. being carful not to burn through to the outer skin.

Thanks Charger-Bodie,
What about in my case, I am replacing EVERY panel! quarters, rockers, fenders. and I'm wondering if the doors were locked down with panel bond that might not be a bad thing? (not sure) If I remember correctly Dino, recommended that I use the doors to align all the panels.

It seems like everyone has there own opinion! I'm just not sure which way to go 

[Dino]

Yes do use sound deadener. I have always liked the stick on 3M stuff but there's several options like the lizard skin.

The panel bond is totally fine and it does indeed push all the air out and seal it up. Still, after primer and before pain you want to properly seal the edges with a high quality sealer as well. I used 3M in the past, small tube, but that was well over 10 years ago.

Thanks Dino,
I called a local resto shop to see what they recommend and the guy told me if it were his car he would leave the inside in epoxy. No sound deadner.
His reasoning was, if the door was ever dented and needed repaired then it would be much easier to fix with no sound deadning especially like lizard skin.

That's why I used the stick on stuff. It comes off with the aid of a heat gun. Without this stuff, it won't sound like the thud of an expensive luxury car when you shut the door.   

[mopar4don]

Yes do use sound deadener. I have always liked the stick on 3M stuff but there's several options like the lizard skin.

The panel bond is totally fine and it does indeed push all the air out and seal it up. Still, after primer and before pain you want to properly seal the edges with a high quality sealer as well. I used 3M in the past, small tube, but that was well over 10 years ago.

Thanks Dino,
I called a local resto shop to see what they recommend and the guy told me if it were his car he would leave the inside in epoxy. No sound deadner.
His reasoning was, if the door was ever dented and needed repaired then it would be much easier to fix with no sound deadning especially like lizard skin.

That's why I used the stick on stuff. It comes off with the aid of a heat gun. Without this stuff, it won't sound like the thud of an expensive luxury car when you shut the door.  

Again thank you! 3m stick on. I will see what I can find, does it have foil on it?
Found some   Found some https://www.amazon.com/3M-08840-Sound-Deadening-1-pad/dp/B005RNGRMU

[Charger-Bodie]

Yes do use sound deadener. I have always liked the stick on 3M stuff but there's several options like the lizard skin.

The panel bond is totally fine and it does indeed push all the air out and seal it up. Still, after primer and before pain you want to properly seal the edges with a high quality sealer as well. I used 3M in the past, small tube, but that was well over 10 years ago.

Thanks Dino,
I called a local resto shop to see what they recommend and the guy told me if it were his car he would leave the inside in epoxy. No sound deadner.
His reasoning was, if the door was ever dented and needed repaired then it would be much easier to fix with no sound deadning especially like lizard skin.

even thought im a big fan of panel bond,dont use on these easy to twist doors as it will lock it up and not allow for adjusting the door twist when aligning the panels. just do some plug weld that attach the crimp to the shell. being carful not to burn through to the outer skin.

Thanks Charger-Bodie,
What about in my case, I am replacing EVERY panel! quarters, rockers, fenders. and I'm wondering if the doors were locked down with panel bond that might not be a bad thing? (not sure) If I remember correctly Dino, recommended that I use the doors to align all the panels.

It seems like everyone has there own opinion! I'm just not sure which way to go 

Even how the glass works in these door rely on the doors ability to flex. If the door had a crash beam style structure I'd say glue, but never on this style.

[mopar4don]

Yes do use sound deadener. I have always liked the stick on 3M stuff but there's several options like the lizard skin.

The panel bond is totally fine and it does indeed push all the air out and seal it up. Still, after primer and before pain you want to properly seal the edges with a high quality sealer as well. I used 3M in the past, small tube, but that was well over 10 years ago.

Thanks Dino,
I called a local resto shop to see what they recommend and the guy told me if it were his car he would leave the inside in epoxy. No sound deadner.
His reasoning was, if the door was ever dented and needed repaired then it would be much easier to fix with no sound deadning especially like lizard skin.

even thought im a big fan of panel bond,dont use on these easy to twist doors as it will lock it up and not allow for adjusting the door twist when aligning the panels. just do some plug weld that attach the crimp to the shell. being carful not to burn through to the outer skin.

Thanks Charger-Bodie,
What about in my case, I am replacing EVERY panel! quarters, rockers, fenders. and I'm wondering if the doors were locked down with panel bond that might not be a bad thing? (not sure) If I remember correctly Dino, recommended that I use the doors to align all the panels.

It seems like everyone has there own opinion! I'm just not sure which way to go 

Even how the glass works in these door rely on the doors ability to flex. If the door had a crash beam style structure I'd say glue, but never on this style.

That brings up another question.
After I weld the skin on. Should I fit the door to the quarters with the glass installed?

[Dino]

Install as much as you can yes. Leaving the door handle off is fine of course but get that heavy stuff in there before you fine tune the fit.

[Charger-Bodie]

Yes do use sound deadener. I have always liked the stick on 3M stuff but there's several options like the lizard skin.

The panel bond is totally fine and it does indeed push all the air out and seal it up. Still, after primer and before pain you want to properly seal the edges with a high quality sealer as well. I used 3M in the past, small tube, but that was well over 10 years ago.

Thanks Dino,
I called a local resto shop to see what they recommend and the guy told me if it were his car he would leave the inside in epoxy. No sound deadner.
His reasoning was, if the door was ever dented and needed repaired then it would be much easier to fix with no sound deadning especially like lizard skin.

even thought im a big fan of panel bond,dont use on these easy to twist doors as it will lock it up and not allow for adjusting the door twist when aligning the panels. just do some plug weld that attach the crimp to the shell. being carful not to burn through to the outer skin.

Thanks Charger-Bodie,
What about in my case, I am replacing EVERY panel! quarters, rockers, fenders. and I'm wondering if the doors were locked down with panel bond that might not be a bad thing? (not sure) If I remember correctly Dino, recommended that I use the doors to align all the panels.

It seems like everyone has there own opinion! I'm just not sure which way to go 

Even how the glass works in these door rely on the doors ability to flex. If the door had a crash beam style structure I'd say glue, but never on this style.

That brings up another question.
After I weld the skin on. Should I fit the door to the quarters with the glass installed?

or the aprox. weight.

[DAY CLONA]

Charger-Bodie/Brian is "spot on" with his recommendations, you need the door somewhat "flexible" so that you can "rack" it on the car to achieve a nice panel alignment, I might add that some re-enforcement plates behind the door handle will prevent the oh-so common problem of the door skin being pulled/distorted by the handle, either during handle installation (always AFTER final paint!) or prolonged usage down the road


I like to finish seal the door seams/insulate the inside skin after I've fitted/racked it hanging, aligned on the car with the rear gtr and front fenders in place, aligned

Mike

[jlatessa]

Also, the same company makes reinforcement plates for your mirrors too.....BIG difference

Joe

[DAY CLONA]

Also, the same company makes reinforcement plates for your mirrors too.....BIG difference

Joe

Good to know!, I hadn't seen those

[mopar4don]

Thanks everyone for the help!
When I get to this I will update my thread.
Here is the link for those interested
http://www.dodgecharger.com/forum/index.php/topic,104414.0.html