suggestions for 30 x 40 Shop plans!

[Harper]

thanks guys for all of the suggestions, comments each of you have helped make my process of designing this shop easier.  I am planning on putting a two post lift in one bay and adding enough concrete in another for a second two post lift for down the road. I may not ever see it in my life time, but i am planning for it

i will add to the back of the shop for a bathroom with a stand up shower, toilet and sink later on down the road.

Bob,
yea that is in the plans for outside, we seldom see really cold temps around here and in the summer or sometimes in the winter it may be in the 70's, 80's and sometimes above that.

I was just telling my wife that i plan to put a drain on the outside slab (to be added later for a area to wash/rinse vehicles).

[Harper]

wow, so now i am totally let down. I was estimating this concrete would be somewhere around $3000 ($1800 for actual concrete, and i figured $1200 to form it and smooth it) and the estimate came back $7400 for everything. REALLY? what the hell...
so evidently my shop is delayed! I am not spending nearly $7500 for a 30 x 40 pad. I mean damn...

One step forward and two steps back...

[JB400]

30x40 pad/ 4 inches thick/15 yrds./ $130 per yard=  $1950

1/2 bar 4 ft. centers / 31 sticks / $6 a stick= $96

12 inch footing/ 9 yrds. /$130 per yard. =$1200

Material prices are local for me, and this doesn't account for plumbing or fill.  But, I can attest that labor prices are what is going to kill you on this project.  I'd recommend doing as much of the grade work yourself, and then sub out the pour itself.

If I was closer, I'd help you out.

[Harper]

30x40 pad/ 4 inches thick/15 yrds./ $130 per yard=  $1950

1/2 bar 4 ft. centers / 31 sticks / $6 a stick= $96

12 inch footing/ 9 yrds. /$130 per yard. =$1200

Material prices are local for me, and this doesn't account for plumbing or fill.  But, I can attest that labor prices are what is going to kill you on this project.  I'd recommend doing as much of the grade work yourself, and then sub out the pour itself.

If I was closer, I'd help you out.

i appreciate that! wished you were...

yea i will regroup, no biggie. It will happen if i have to do it in sections (i mean you need expansion points anyway right). I have already rounded up some good ppl to help. I will pay for the concrete and when i get it all formed up, and some good help, tackle it. I have poured and I can SCREET it but i need help with the "whirly bird" part. Just gotta study up on it

[JB400]

It's just like polishing a floor with a power buffer.  Same principle.  Just need a spray bottle with some water to fill in spots.

[Harper]

It's just like polishing a floor with a power buffer.  Same principle.  Just need a spray bottle with some water to fill in spots.

thanks

[INTMD8]

A lot of good advice here.

I went with LED's, ZL1N lithonia with 4k color temperature. Love them.

Many say to go with in floor heat but since my building/slab was already there when I bought the place I ended up going with an exterior package unit, gas heat and A/C.

Along with spray foam insulation, could not be happier, it's awesome.

For the interior I did metal liner panels from Menards and surface mounted all electrical and air lines.

Agreed on doing the entire slab 6".  Check of course but I don't think it would be much easier/cheaper to try and excavate certain areas.

Have the slab cut with smaller squares (maybe 10x10?) to avoid cracks.

One thing about mine I did not like was there was fiber mixed in to the slab. Tried to burn it all off after grinding with a weed burner but didn't get it all so ended up with some nubs in the epoxy floor.

Without the fiber mix I would have preferred to just do polished concrete over epoxy.

[Harper]

Have the slab cut with smaller squares (maybe 10x10?) to avoid cracks.

One thing about mine I did not like was there was fiber mixed in to the slab. Tried to burn it all off after grinding with a weed burner but didn't get it all so ended up with some nubs in the epoxy floor.

Without the fiber mix I would have preferred to just do polished concrete over epoxy.

that's some good advice there also. Yea the fiber is strong and is suppose to prevent cracking, but the fuzz on top when you get ready to epoxy is a good reason for me NOT to do the fiber. Plus the standard 3000psi concrete is good enough for me and some cheaper.