25k for HEMI blower long block

[1974dodgecharger]

is that about the right price?  Got some quotes the only quote left is from FHO in Canada, but eery to try to get one built being in Canada just in case something goes wrong be hard to sue someone in a different country per say.  YES im eery to hand over 25k just like that to anyone considering what I been through with some builders for axles, blowers, etc....

anyways is 25k for a long block sound about right for a 572 HEMI?  Those quotes are from 4 builders and I wont name off, but you guys probably 2 of them and the other 2 are some guys who been around the HEMI for minimal for 20 years building them.  The goal for the engine is to make:

-1K HP on pump 91 gas (all 4 said that's easy)
-1200 plus (1400HP be nice for bragging) on race gas (again all 4 said the engine will take as long as I lay down the boost from the blower)
-daily driver abuse

[chapel40]

Abought right less supercharger. Was quoted 25k for my build without supercharger, just dominator carb. No iron blocks available, only aluminum, that's why I did not buy one. Didn't want aluminum block.

[1974dodgecharger]

Abought right less supercharger. Was quoted 25k for my build without supercharger, just dominator carb. No iron blocks available, only aluminum, that's why I did not buy one. Didn't want aluminum block.

is aluminum block bad?  I thought they were good if you wanted to do big cubes?  Now im learning the opposiste people want iron blocks for a 572 or bigger...man 25k....sounds crazy.

[alfaitalia]

Abought right less supercharger. Was quoted 25k for my build without supercharger, just dominator carb. No iron blocks available, only aluminum, that's why I did not buy one. Didn't want aluminum block.

Interesting.... can I ask why. My "guy in the know" never even mentioned a steel block. Most cars are alloy block/head combo nowadays surely.....even really powerful ones.

[Mike DC]

    
Iron is generally the strongest but very heavy.  The repro iron B/RB blocks are about 310 lbs.  The alloy blocks are about 145.
.

[Challenger340]

Why in the World would you even think about buying just a "Long Block", an UN-finished "partial" assembly, and then mention "suing" anybody on a 1,000 hp to 1,300hp Engine if "something were to go wrong" after YOU complete the Engine ?
NOBODY warranties OTHER people's work !
If YOU are FINAL Assembling it is YOUR BABY !

$25K Canadian Dollars would be CHEAP at my shop !(and I am in Canada as well), but we don't do any PARTIAL Assemblies.  

We been around HEMI's for 40 years, and we offer a 925hp all Aluminum 572 HEMI Pkg's on 91 Octane Naturally Aspirated(2 Carbs), but again, you would not get out our door below $45-$50K Canadian Dyno'd and FINISHED ? As in WE assemble it to COMPLETION and run it in your presence.  
Blown at 1,000 hp on pump gas is a piece of piss, but even HIGHER $ !

just say'in....
"partial" assemblies like a "Long Block" are YOURS, good or bad, YOU take ownership and responsibility.   Partial assembly "warranties" are typically to Machining ONLY, meaning sizings etc., that's it.... that's ALL !

[1974dodgecharger]

This is where it gets tricky I want to buy the blower myself from Theblowershop.com and have them anodized it all black, every single piece black, black this, black that and the hillborn injection will be black also since im doing EFI.  NOw the kicker is I can get those pieces for what blowershop charges me, but the builders want to do is charge me more than what blowershop charges me im like WTF really when I can just buy it from them instead.  I understand builders don't make much on a build so they want to over charge as much as they can for a build. 

I highly doubt you can sue anyone on a engine build never seen it happen theres a famous resto person who does all mopars and a well known builder (wont name the name again) the engine broke after 300 miles of cruising and they said 1 year warranty after what happened they didn't warrant it anyways.  So I know already no matter what builder claims to warrant their word of mouth is worthless to me anyways so when the engine gets into my hands I don't expect a warranty.  Look at the guy who builds twin turbo engines (wont name his name here either) took him 3 years to build an engine and never finished and got sued for it and claimed it takes 5 years to build a twin a turbo engine  a HEMI too.

Why in the World would you even think about buying just a "Long Block", an UN-finished "partial" assembly, and then mention "suing" anybody on a 1,000 hp to 1,300hp Engine if "something were to go wrong" after YOU complete the Engine ?
NOBODY warranties OTHER people's work !
If YOU are FINAL Assembling it is YOUR BABY !

$25K Canadian Dollars would be CHEAP at my shop !(and I am in Canada as well), but we don't do any PARTIAL Assemblies.  

We been around HEMI's for 40 years, and we offer a 925hp all Aluminum 572 HEMI Pkg's on 91 Octane Naturally Aspirated(2 Carbs), but again, you would not get out our door below $45-$50K Canadian Dyno'd and FINISHED ? As in WE assemble it to COMPLETION and run it in your presence.  
Blown at 1,000 hp on pump gas is a piece of piss, but even HIGHER $ !

just say'in....
"partial" assemblies like a "Long Block" are YOURS, good or bad, YOU take ownership and responsibility.   Partial assembly "warranties" are typically to Machining ONLY, meaning sizings etc., that's it.... that's ALL !

[Challenger340]

There is absolutely NO NEED for any "warranty" when we are finished, and most other professional Engine Shops as well,  because we only do them ONE WAY !
That is...
Done, Finished, and Dyno'd for 8-10 hrs, in the Customer's presence, to THEIR satisfaction !

When we're finished beating on it for 8 hrs ?, they've SEEN what they have, The HP, the Trq, cut multiple Oil Filters apart to inspect, changed Oil, and we've PROVEN the Engine to them to their satisfaction !
There would NEVER be a reason for someone to "sue" anyone using that Business "Model", because the Customer KNOWS what they have at the end of the Dyno day.... a PROVEN Engine, to THEIR satisfaction ! Otherwise they don't take delivery, simple as that.

Good Luck with your Engine aspirations, and if YOU are FINAL assembling from a purchased partial assembly long block ?......if something does go south ?.... just remember the one builder name you can name, to take OWNERSHIP and RESPONSIBILITY for it ?      



YOURSELF !

[aerolith]

Monster 'can of worms' with engines from MILD to WILD!
Buyers of engines want guarantee's even on $500 S/H cut-outs!

I have seen a lot of busted 1000hp+ engines as parts always fail eventually.
If it survives the Dyno-room then its gonna be good for a while, maybe a long while, its all down to the USER/ABUSER!!!

In reality there are no guarantee's just HONESTY between builder and engine owner.

If you pay TOP Dollar for a build then you expect some sort of longevity with proper usage.
A 1000hp crank won't take 1200hp but a 1500hp crank will with ease...
Anything less than a perfect build will undoubtedly FAIL, sooner rather than laters...

If you take an untried/untested engine from a shop and finish build yourself then there are no guarantee's methinks...




IS THERE A IRON OR ALUMINUM BLOCK DEBATE ON DC.com YET???

[aerolith]

Why stop at 1000hp when you can have 2000...

[alfaitalia]

If I'm paying for a 1000hp plus engine then I expect all of what Chall340 correctly said......but I always would expect a warranty on a fresh engine build completed by someone else....and , as is the law in the UK I would get one. A legal minimum would be 12 months (this is assuming its a street engine (a race engine...well off course not!!)) ...and if it fails its not up to me to prove their work was substandard...its up to the builder to prove it wasn't....not easy to do. These laws keeps the standards high and soon finishes off the bad builders. Anything you buy (or service you pay for) here has to be "fit for purpose" for a period defined by law. Also even the best builder could make a mistake that might not show for thousands of miles, let alone fail on the dyno, or there could be a tiny fracture/bubble in the metal that the xray missed...etc, etc....why should the buyer be responsible for that? Obviously all the builders who are members on here are all WAYYYY to good to ever make a mistake.....but there are others!!!


Aerolith.....Not seen that debate on DC......but there are loads on other car forums. Verdict is always the same. Both can be engineered to be a strong as each other in a street car.....but what you save in weight on an alloy motor you pay in cash!!

[aerolith]

Well said Alfa!

Myself I would only use IRON hemi block up to 1000hp after that it would be ALi all the way KB etc...
My shed is full of wrecked iron blocks, but all the ALI ones are still going strong, even after Blow-UPS!!!

Horses for Courses as always...
If you build an engine for a street driven car and he/she goes on the track and it breaks, who is to blame?
Engine owner says, ''I only revved it to 5000 and it should take a lot more...

As we all know, a guy who OVER revs his NEW motor will never/ever fess-up!
He has 'egg on his boatrace' so he then thinks, I will blame the builder...

Builder takes engine apart and finds scored pistons and a bent rod or two and damaged bearings, which points towards semi-seizure and over-heating.

Yep, this motor would have taken 5000rpm's all day long if you had put a decent cooling system on the car...

''AND how many miles did you do before, thrashing the guts outta a BRAND-NEW, OVER HOT motor you MORON''...Engine builder says!

Big fight then ensues and the Police get involved and someone ends up in a CELL...

Yep it happens this way a lot between Folks, its how you resolve the problem, which is the MOST important outcome.



PS if I couldn't build my own motor, I would never own an Mopar or any performance car, that's the way I am...

[aerolith]

426 Hemi's are a strange beasty indeed!

Like all Nascar/Drag motors they are built for Horsepower!
When they were designed in 1964, 600hp was as good as it got, no one could have foreseen them going up to 10,000hp by the end of the Century!

Herein lies the problem, every engine is built differently, for a different purpose, gas, nitrous, blown, street, strip and posing till closing.
I would run a street hemi with a 0.006 wall clearance, the top drag guys run at 0.015...
Mostly the older hemi's I have worked on have been around 0.010, probably ex blower motors?
Bearing clearances at 0.004-5 thou will give very little idle oil-pressure etc...
Thats why you hear so many 'rattly hemi's' they have been clearanced for max output.

So if you build a hemi for yourself or someone else there is many, many decisions have to be made about running clearances!
Then there's camshaft choice, whatever you pick will always be wrong, no vacuum, no low down grunt, blah, blah, blah.

Loose as a Goose or too tight for anything but grocery getting?

As any engine builder will tell you, its a fine line between success and failure...

Remember this, how often do you use WOT and for how long...