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What is the fastest 1/8 mile, 1/4 mile 68, 69,70 Charger in here?

Started by Harper, December 17, 2017, 12:14:32 PM

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Harper

1968 Dodge Charger
1969 Dodge Charger (GL Clone)
1951 F1 Ford 302 EFI, Automatic
1965 F100 Ford Straight 6, 3 speed on column (all original)

440

With electronics etc it shouldn't be too hard to make a faster car consistantly slower. If it's at full tune and all on the pedal only then yeah, that kind of consistency is impressive.

c00nhunterjoe

Quote from: 440 on December 24, 2017, 02:05:08 AM
With electronics etc it shouldn't be too hard to make a faster car consistantly slower. If it's at full tune and all on the pedal only then yeah, that kind of consistency is impressive.

Come give it a try if ya think its that easy.  :2thumbs:  9.900 wins, 9.899 loses. There is only 1 more peice of electronics in this car then your street car.

c00nhunterjoe

Quote from: Harper on December 23, 2017, 11:42:29 PM
:cheers:
thats quick. What weight vehic

Min weight for supercomp (8.90) is 1350 i think but they are basicly all dragsters. Min weight for supergas(9.90) is 2100 lbs. Min for super street(10.90) is 2800, the 79 arrow in supergas is heavy for the clas at 2700 lbs. It a legit door car, still sports the oe vin and roll up glass windows. Most guys are tube chassis glass bodies at 2100 lbs.

440

I'm not saying it's easy, dialing in a car for a specific time is an art for sure. I'm just saying it's easier to detune a car to run a consistent time then trying to find every extra 10th of a second.

Harper

QuoteMin weight for supercomp (8.90) is 1350 i think but they are basicly all dragsters. Min weight for supergas(9.90) is 2100 lbs. Min for super street(10.90) is 2800, the 79 arrow in supergas is heavy for the clas at 2700 lbs. It a legit door car, still sports the oe vin and roll up glass windows. Most guys are tube chassis glass bodies at 2100 lbs.

i started track racing in the early 1990's, started with a truck F100 lol (talk about a heavy beast)
moved on to a 1982 Mustang GT running 10's in the 1/8,
the more i was at the track the faster i got. The more i learned.
and if nothing else the main thing i learned was this (the faster your car, the more expense,
the faster the car the more parts you have potential to break and the more you work on it,
and the faster the car the faster you want to go).
I learned something else very quickly...its ok to run middle of the road a certain time/ET and build your car to hold together at that speed/ET. Its way funner to be comfortable and get to race than to spend every waking moment working on the car.
1968 Dodge Charger
1969 Dodge Charger (GL Clone)
1951 F1 Ford 302 EFI, Automatic
1965 F100 Ford Straight 6, 3 speed on column (all original)

c00nhunterjoe

Quote from: 440 on December 24, 2017, 08:41:30 AM
I'm not saying it's easy, dialing in a car for a specific time is an art for sure. I'm just saying it's easier to detune a car to run a consistent time then trying to find every extra 10th of a second.


Car is not detuned. Come on out to some races for a pit tour.

c00nhunterjoe

Quote from: Harper on December 24, 2017, 10:21:52 AM
QuoteMin weight for supercomp (8.90) is 1350 i think but they are basicly all dragsters. Min weight for supergas(9.90) is 2100 lbs. Min for super street(10.90) is 2800, the 79 arrow in supergas is heavy for the clas at 2700 lbs. It a legit door car, still sports the oe vin and roll up glass windows. Most guys are tube chassis glass bodies at 2100 lbs.

i started track racing in the early 1990's, started with a truck F100 lol (talk about a heavy beast)
moved on to a 1982 Mustang GT running 10's in the 1/8,
the more i was at the track the faster i got. The more i learned.
and if nothing else the main thing i learned was this (the faster your car, the more expense,
the faster the car the more parts you have potential to break and the more you work on it,
and the faster the car the faster you want to go).
I learned something else very quickly...its ok to run middle of the road a certain time/ET and build your car to hold together at that speed/ET. Its way funner to be comfortable and get to race than to spend every waking moment working on the car.


If you pick an et to run, and are constantly working/breaking, you did something wrong or are using cheap parts. 63 been together since 2009, 79's 150mph motor was assembled in the mid 1990s. We dont open the hoods at the track unless we are letting out heat between runs.

Harper

QuoteIf you pick an et to run, and are constantly working/breaking, you did something wrong or are using cheap parts.

well i am sure when you started out you didn't just "know what parts to put in a build" there is a learning curve and you will break parts they are mechanical and it happens.

However Personally i have never broken a transmission other than the normal clutch wear, same on standard shift transmissions, i did burn up a 5 speed once in my younger days because it had a low fluid level, oh well
as far as an engine, i have broken a rocker arm stud twice (same engine, crappy head work by a sponsor, i promply removed them, took them back to him and went to a different deal all together).
I have broken one stock axle on a Mustang leaving at 4800 rpm with drag radials, replaced it with mosers and they lived for a long while until i sold the car.

however i have seen many many people break engines, transmission's, etc. moving from a 8 second zone to a 7 or even a 6 second zone in 1/8 mile with their particular build. Mind you i am not hanging out with John Force but then again he breaks stuff all the time as well, so evidently he doesn't know what he is doing i suppose lol
1968 Dodge Charger
1969 Dodge Charger (GL Clone)
1951 F1 Ford 302 EFI, Automatic
1965 F100 Ford Straight 6, 3 speed on column (all original)

440

Quote from: c00nhunterjoe on December 24, 2017, 11:53:33 AM
Quote from: 440 on December 24, 2017, 08:41:30 AM
I'm not saying it's easy, dialing in a car for a specific time is an art for sure. I'm just saying it's easier to detune a car to run a consistent time then trying to find every extra 10th of a second.


Car is not detuned. Come on out to some races for a pit tour.

Your running a timed throttle stop holding the car back to help you hit that 9.90 index? The good thing is it keeps racing competitive and fair without requiring an endless budget.

c00nhunterjoe

Budget is still a relative term. When a guy is closing your gap at 180mph, its very difficult to judge. Comes down to the ten thousandths for the win many times. The timer box is only a small portion of the puzzle. If you have time and are in my area, come on out and i will give you an inside show of how it works. Nothing like bracket racing even though it sounds like it is.

redmist

I collected my 110 MPH Sticker at the track on the very first pass in my car. spun through first, lifted, and got back into it.



110.05 MPH
13.3 1/4
Reaction was a .345


It's been down the track twice, no idea what it would run with good tires.
JUNKTRAVELER: all I've seen in this thread is a bunch of bullies and 3 guys that actually give a crap.

BSB67

Quote from: redmist on December 24, 2017, 09:28:03 PM
I collected my 110 MPH Sticker at the track on the very first pass in my car. spun through first, lifted, and got back into it.

110.05 MPH
13.3 1/4
Reaction was a .345


Nice.

Reaction time does not show up in any of the other numbers.  Improving it won't effect et or mph.

110 mph in a typical B body and decent track conditions (I.e. da of 2000) your making about 450 HP.  My guess is that your 60 ft time was about 2.4 to 2.5.



500" NA, Eddy head, pump gas, exhaust manifold with 2 1/2 exhaust with tailpipes
4150 lbs with driver, 3.23 gear, stock converter
11.68 @ 120.2 mph

c00nhunterjoe


Harper

QuoteI collected my 110 MPH Sticker at the track on the very first pass in my car. spun through first, lifted, and got back into it.



110.05 MPH
13.3 1/4
Reaction was a .345


It's been down the track twice, no idea what it would run with good tires.

nice! that mph is showing a good amount of power..
1968 Dodge Charger
1969 Dodge Charger (GL Clone)
1951 F1 Ford 302 EFI, Automatic
1965 F100 Ford Straight 6, 3 speed on column (all original)