What is the fastest 1/8 mile, 1/4 mile 68, 69,70 Charger in here?

[c00nhunterjoe]

You're underestimating the weight of a b body.

A stock, full steel, RB powered b body weighs around 4250 wet.

Maybe with YOU sitting in it.
My 70 weighed 3850 without the back seat. It is all steel except for aluminum heads and intake.

I really need to scale my pig...

[Mike DC]

 
One of the surviving 'Dukes' Generals weighed only 3700 lbs when Motor Trend did that comparo with a 2011 Charger. 

That's a near-stock 440/727/8.75.  Power steering, AC, low rust (and no repro sheetmetal).  Alloy wheels.  No spare/jack but it carried about 70 lbs of pushbar & rollbar.

[400sforever]

My red 74 with 512ci and 727 weighs 3700 without me in it. Its got a fiberglass hood and aluminum heads and intake but that's it. Pretty light for a 3rd gen.  I've yet to have any punk pass that car.

[Harper]

I've yet to have any punk pass that car.

if your talking about the red with black vinyl top car in your icon, that is a beautiful car!!

[Harper]

there is so many places that can make the car faster and reduce weight its not even funny...

I have seen guys run aluminum flywheels on stick cars, small radiators (water weights 8.34 lbs per gallon), aluminum drive shafts, machine nearly 3 lbs off a ring gear, use titanium wheel studs, drive shaft bolts, ring gear bolts (skipping every other one), flywheel bolts, every fastener on their car, run 40 plus spline axles and have them gun drilled, aluminum shocks, small fuel tanks or leave them with only a few gallons in them, race seats, no back seat, no tail pipes, skinnys on the front, llgiht weight wheels (i mean LIGHT), single chamber mufflers, delete heater and ac and run manual steering, manual brakes, fiber glass hoods, fiberglass bumpers,  remove front sway bars, run aluminum motor plates, no carpet, no underlayment, no radio, no spare, no jack,

ways to reduce friction and save rotating mass
zero weight motor oil (yes zero) change after every pass, would i do this NO...
light grease in the wheel bearings,
lighter grease in their rear end,
air their tires up to 80 plus psi in front,
run smaller diameter front disc
smaller transmissions even tho it would have to be rebuilt every  30 passes etc.
roller planetary and thrust bearings in transmissions
smaller diameter lighter convertors
smaller, lighter rear end carriers

now mind you most of these was in a street class that required a tag, mufflers, and insurance to be on the car with STOCK cam, stock type heads (in some cases)

these cars were flying for what they were.  So there are ways to reduce weight, friction to go faster.

I have seen ppl cheat with fuel that would add 20 hp... and i know for everything you make more RACEtrack ready you do give up some street ability. Hopefully I will find a happy medium. 

[400sforever]

Thanks! Ya it can get crazy trying to make a car faster! I originally built my black and red 74 to race but after it came out of the bodyshop I couldn't bring myself to send it down a track. . . But it's a wicked street car

[c00nhunterjoe]

What fuel adds 20hp? I would like to use it in my bracket car.

[alfaitalia]

I guess it depends on which fuel you normally use....if you used propane normally (called LPG in the UK), regular gas would add more than that! Silly example but you can see what I'm getting at.

[c00nhunterjoe]

Not following... if i run 93 octane, and dump c12 in the tank, it will make no difference, despite popular myths. And on top of that, it smells different, so if its a tagged and insured street class, you will get caught as soon as you start the car. So the fuels in question must not be typical race fuels, thus why i am inquiring.

[alfaitalia]

Not following... if i run 93 octane, and dump c12 in the tank, it will make no difference, despite popular myths. And on top of that, it smells different, so if its a tagged and insured street class, you will get caught as soon as you start the car. So the fuels in question must not be typical race fuels, thus why i am inquiring.

I agree.....but I think what he is implying is that you could run race fuel (with the appropriate set up) and gain horses.....not just pour it in. An he does say its street driven....so being caught wont come into it.

[garner7555]

I'm reassembling mine, so it has taken 2 years (and still counting) for it to go 1/8 of a mile.            Do I win?

[Harper]

What fuel adds 20hp? I would like to use it in my bracket car.

i believe "isopropylene" I will do some digging but basically its a fuel additive and a lot of ppl are running it on snow mobiles also Its very harsh on the fuel system, rubber lines etc, but for the sake of 15-20 extra hp some say its worth it.
If you look at street outlaws and the blue flames their cars throw from the exhaust, its a giveaway...they run a fuel that has some type of nitro-methane additive.

what i found when racing my bbf was that is if you dont have the correct compression ratio, going to one step higher octane can actually hurt your performance. I could run 98 octane in it (super unleaded) or 103 octane race fuel it didnt matter one way or the other it ran the same, going to a higher 108 oct actually would hurt my performance and slow it down however

Its pretty amazing if you look at the factory stock cars running in NMRA with unleaded 101 VP race fuel.
John Leslie Jr. is ran the below record in the quarter mile with a 3100 lb car limited to 306 cubic inches with a 5 speed, NO PORTING, basically stock head with valve job, roller cam, roller rockers through the exhaust/mufflers w(dumps) this is why i laugh when ppl say a big block cant run 6's and drive on the street. You sometimes can not rely on "old school" someetimes you have to do the research, and testing to get where you want to go. Mind you it is expensive to replace good bolts with titanium pieces...
10.517 @ 125.97
Bradenton, FL
03/05/17    

[440]

I've heard that running more octane then you need is a waste of money and can actually slow the car down.

(Edit, just read above ^^  )

[cdr]

What fuel adds 20hp? I would like to use it in my bracket car.

i believe "isopropylene" I will do some digging but basically its a fuel additive and a lot of ppl are running it on snow mobiles also Its very harsh on the fuel system, rubber lines etc, but for the sake of 15-20 extra hp some say its worth it.
If you look at street outlaws and the blue flames their cars throw from the exhaust, its a giveaway...they run a fuel that has some type of nitro-methane additive.

what i found when racing my bbf was that is if you dont have the correct compression ratio, going to one step higher octane can actually hurt your performance. I could run 98 octane in it (super unleaded) or 103 octane race fuel it didnt matter one way or the other it ran the same, going to a higher 108 oct actually would hurt my performance and slow it down however

Its pretty amazing if you look at the factory stock cars running in NMRA with unleaded 101 VP race fuel.
John Leslie Jr. is ran the below record in the quarter mile with a 3100 lb car limited to 306 cubic inches with a 5 speed, NO PORTING, basically stock head with valve job, roller cam, roller rockers through the exhaust/mufflers w(dumps) this is why i laugh when ppl say a big block cant run 6's and drive on the street. You sometimes can not rely on "old school" someetimes you have to do the research, and testing to get where you want to go. Mind you it is expensive to replace good bolts with titanium pieces...
10.517 @ 125.97
Bradenton, FL
03/05/17    

That is a very well worked out DEDICATED  RACE CAR , my turn to laugh LOL.  Apples & peanuts, 

[Aussiemadonmopars]

It may not be an american charger but try a search for John Faraone's Aussie Charger. He has a full bodied car, up over 4000lb, running a TT big block, up around 2500 HP, and running in the sevens. He recently went over to the US to do drag week. I think there is a vid or 2 on 1320 video, Kyle did a bit of an interview with him and was looking to see how he was going. John has an easy Aussie accent and you should be able to pick up what he's putting down. He also had a 9 second 69 Charger (American model) car in the back shed, although I haven't seen it for a while.

[Challenger340]

It ain't that difficult to run low 10's in a porky (3800-4000lb)b-body, and be relatively "streetable" with same, all it takes is money and some cubic inch. 
I have a few customers already there, and even FASTER at the track when they can actually hook, between 810-925 hp N/A no adders, albeit not Charger's, one is even on straight 91 Octane.
Remember here, the co-efficient of friction on street asphalt ? well.... 'nuff said about that !
But again,
   The definition of "streetable" and the criterion therein is up for debate ?
I don't think any of my guys do more than a few thousand miles per year ? and all are well versed in taking care of, and maintaining their stuff. Nonetheless, full interiors, crank windows, wipers, etc.,  and maintaining a fairly "stock'ish" appearance, the Engines themselves can be a frigg'in handful on the street, and again the street asphalt can be a skating rink 'outa the hole.

Body stiffening is paramount using connectors/8pt bar, some rear squat W/Caltracs/mono leaf at a minimum and a diff/axles/slicks that can take it, and of course ALL the relevant Engine support systems for cooling, Fuel, Ignition and Exhaust as req'd.

We can never exceed the speed of our wallet !

[Harper]

we can never exceed the speed of our wallets

absolutely the truth. that is usually the biggest hold up in going faster. However some ppl lack the knack of matching simple parts and actually getting the power to the ground. Its a learning process no doubt.

[70sixpkrt]

I'm happy with my 500hp 535tq that goes 13.01. On and off the throttle due tire spin. I'm the left lane.

[c00nhunterjoe]

June 16th at 107.9mph.... thats solid low 12 mph in summer heat..... thats respectable.

[Harper]

June 16th at 107.9mph.... thats solid low 12 mph in summer heat..... thats respectable.

i completely agree
with that mile per hour that is a easy 12.7 with traction

[c00nhunterjoe]

Dropping the 60' to a measly 1.8 and changing nothing else would have yielded a 12.4 pass. 12.70s is nothing for that car on a mild tire. Full slick would easily give him a 12 teen.

[Harper]

yea but that all depends on a lot of factors, temp out, tire pressure, what RPM he's leaving at etc. i figured 12.7 at worst. i guess 12.4 may would be possible. But that would be in an ideal situation

for instance what FRONT tire pressure were you running 70sixpkrt? inflate those suckers up to 60 or more and see what happens...same as pushing a wheel barrow with a flat tire vs full inflated.

[440]

Here a video on the Aussie Charger.

Cool story worth a watch

https://youtu.be/-n7rtkX7nl4

[c00nhunterjoe]

yea but that all depends on a lot of factors, temp out, tire pressure, what RPM he's leaving at etc. i figured 12.7 at worst. i guess 12.4 may would be possible. But that would be in an ideal situation

for instance what FRONT tire pressure were you running 70sixpkrt? inflate those suckers up to 60 or more and see what happens...same as pushing a wheel barrow with a flat tire vs full inflated.

Time slip mph alone says 12.40 or better. Better air means more mph which means lower et. Inflating the front tires beyond their max is dangerous and the dumebst thing ive ever heard of. I would never reccomend that. All it would potentially do is change the reaction time by a few ten thousandths.  Run the correct air for the tire or put a skinnier tire on it. Dont wreck your car. My 69 runs 35 on the front. The 63 runs 30 and the 79 arrow that runs 155mph in the 1/4 runs 35. All pressures are at the specs for the tires used. What drag racing were you involved with again?

[INTMD8]

Not following... if i run 93 octane, and dump c12 in the tank, it will make no difference, despite popular myths. And on top of that, it smells different, so if its a tagged and insured street class, you will get caught as soon as you start the car. So the fuels in question must not be typical race fuels, thus why i am inquiring.

Oxygenated fuel will pick up power. Something like MS109 but you must re-jet as it has a different stoich value in comparison to pump fuel.

As for the smell, can't help you on that one.