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how to remove these studs without destroying my hub?

Started by Harper, December 16, 2017, 11:19:42 PM

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Harper

ok guys my first though it heat, but what can i do to remove these left handers so i can install new studs? I hit it with a BFH already scared i will tear something up already bent my brake drum lol
1968 Dodge Charger
1969 Dodge Charger (GL Clone)
1951 F1 Ford 302 EFI, Automatic
1965 F100 Ford Straight 6, 3 speed on column (all original)

Lennard


440

Normally the BFH works, just make sure the flange is supported behind. A bit of PB blaster or penetrating oil can't hurt either.

A press is another option if you have access.

alfaitalia

Two nuts on stud to protect the threads....bfh....whack....job done. Or better still.....take hubs off car...sell on FeeBay, put cash towards proper 4 disc conversion. Then you will be able to stop car without sweaty palms and loss of bowel control!
If at first you don't succeed, skydiving is not for you !!

Harper

QuoteOr better still.....take hubs off car...sell on FeeBay, put cash towards proper 4 disc conversion. Then you will be able to stop car without sweaty palms and loss of bowel control!

now there is a thought! lol
but i need it to stop before the year 2028 lol

I will seek out a press... thanks guys
1968 Dodge Charger
1969 Dodge Charger (GL Clone)
1951 F1 Ford 302 EFI, Automatic
1965 F100 Ford Straight 6, 3 speed on column (all original)


John_Kunkel

The correct way to remove swaged lug studs is to cut away the swaging with a special cutter. Simply pressing them out or using a BFH risks enlarging the holes in the hub so the replacement studs will be loose in the hole. Doing it wrong and getting away with it isn't the same as doing it right.

https://goodson.com/products/swedge-tools
Pardon me but my karma just ran over your dogma.

Harper

QuoteThe correct way to remove swaged lug studs is to cut away the swaging with a special cutter. Simply pressing them out or using a BFH risks enlarging the holes in the hub so the replacement studs will be loose in the hole. Doing it wrong and getting away with it isn't the same as doing it right.

ok i never have heard of this. I have always just knocked them out with a hammer (since i do not own a press). Of course its not that often that i have to change out the studs either. I see what your saying.
thanks
1968 Dodge Charger
1969 Dodge Charger (GL Clone)
1951 F1 Ford 302 EFI, Automatic
1965 F100 Ford Straight 6, 3 speed on column (all original)

sccachallenger

Quote from: John_Kunkel on December 17, 2017, 06:31:07 PM
The correct way to remove swaged lug studs is to cut away the swaging with a special cutter. Simply pressing them out or using a BFH risks enlarging the holes in the hub so the replacement studs will be loose in the hole. Doing it wrong and getting away with it isn't the same as doing it right.

https://goodson.com/products/swedge-tools

COULDN'T AGREE MORE! I'm assuming you're trashing the studs anyway, so do it correctly and don't ruin the drums!

Harper

there is another way to remove them...I used a metabo and cut the heads off and knocked them out the opposite direction. Glad to get those things out. John K you are correct the ridge seals that sucker in there and it just about would not come out without either that drill bit you talked about or the way i did it.
1968 Dodge Charger
1969 Dodge Charger (GL Clone)
1951 F1 Ford 302 EFI, Automatic
1965 F100 Ford Straight 6, 3 speed on column (all original)

Sublime/Sixpack

Metabo as in an angle grinder?
And thanks for the photo image, there's more of a flare/ridge there than I would have expected.
1970 Sublime R/T, 440 Six Pack, Four speed, Super Track Pak

Harper

yea me too i never expected it to be that much...glad its gone.

yea grinder basically, i carefully cut the heads off on the back of the wheel stud.
1968 Dodge Charger
1969 Dodge Charger (GL Clone)
1951 F1 Ford 302 EFI, Automatic
1965 F100 Ford Straight 6, 3 speed on column (all original)

Harper

pic 1
factory left handed threads on drivers side of my 69 charger
pic 2
the wheel bearnings with part numbers on 10 inch front drums on my 6 cylinder 69 charger
pic 3
new right hand studs installed (i also installed a new grease seal)
1968 Dodge Charger
1969 Dodge Charger (GL Clone)
1951 F1 Ford 302 EFI, Automatic
1965 F100 Ford Straight 6, 3 speed on column (all original)

Harper

ok so this spring...is broken into, I do not see it in the Hardware brake parts listed for my 69 charger front 10 inch drum brakes. Is it possible that it is two different springs both broken or was it one spring?
1968 Dodge Charger
1969 Dodge Charger (GL Clone)
1951 F1 Ford 302 EFI, Automatic
1965 F100 Ford Straight 6, 3 speed on column (all original)

Bronzedodge

It's been a while since I've bought and drum hardware, but I thought that spring pictured comes with the self-adjuster kit, separate from the regular drum spring kit.  I could be mistaken, as some front drums are not self adjusting.
Mopar forever!

Harper

thanks Bronzedodge!
I had the local parts store order me a kit for the self adjuster, so hopefully it will be in the kit when i get the chance to go by there. If not I will seek it elsewhere.
1968 Dodge Charger
1969 Dodge Charger (GL Clone)
1951 F1 Ford 302 EFI, Automatic
1965 F100 Ford Straight 6, 3 speed on column (all original)