Can a sure grip be installed in an open rear end?

[troy.70R/T]

I was wondering if a sure grip can be installed in an open rear end? If so I know there are several different types of Sure grips (lockers/ posi tracks) out there which is the best one? Can my old ring and pinion be reused as long as it is in good shape? Thanks in advance.

[birdsandbees]

Pull your axles out, pull the open pumpkin, put a posi pumpkin in and re-install your axles, set the end play and go!

[ACUDANUT]

Don't forget your fat wallet (it ain't cheap) 1500 bucks.

[HPP]

Yes, a sure grip can be installed in  place of the open unit. It is simply the main carrier for the ring gear, so it can be exchanged somewhat easily, if you know how to set up the gears. In your case, I'd certainly suggest having a shop set them up for you and you do the  exchanged as outlined above.  

There are several types of limited slip differentials, as you point out. These allow slippage between the two axles to  minimize noise and wear and allow smooth operation while going around corners. Cone style, Clutch style, gear style and ratchet style are all types of limited slips. There also are lockers style differentials that physically lock the two axles together without slip. These  would be spools, E lockers, and air lockers.

Additionally, there are many brand names out there that get confused as limited slips. Limited slip is the  action they  perform. Sure Grip, Posi-traction,  True-Trac, Trac-Loc, Detroit Locker are all brand  names.

For mopars there are typically two  OEM style Sure Grips that are  used, a cone style and a clutch style. There are some newer styles such as gear, ratchet and air styles that may also be available. The  OEM types of cone  and clutch styles are what you will most often find on the used market. Cone style are the mechanical interface of  several hard parts that lock the axles. They wear and eventually loose their effectiveness. They are  not supposed to be rebuildable, but I have seen  savvy mechanics that have  re-machines the facing parts to make them work again but once this is done, they will wear again and eventually  not be repairable. The clutch style work similar to  a transmission clutch as it allows slippage via a set of plates and organic  discs. As these wear, the  discs can be replaced to restore function.

[green69rt]

http://www.doctordiff.com/8-3-4-489-case-third-member.html


$$$$$

Probably a clutch style although it doesn't say.

[Troy]

http://www.doctordiff.com/8-3-4-489-case-third-member.html


$$$$$

Probably a clutch style although it doesn't say.

But that's everything including gears, case, and assembly (with no core charge it seems). If you just need the Sure Grip itself, it's significantly cheaper (but you'll have to learn or pay labor):
http://www.doctordiff.com/8-3-4-clutch-type-sure-grip-powr-lok.html

The last differential I had built was $500 for gears, bearings, seals and assembly - which, I believe, was very cheap but it also took a few months for the guy to find time to do it. Having a complete spare is very handy as gear swaps can be done in a matter of hours. Like if you wanted to switch between "city/track" limited slip gear to open "highway" gears. Pull the wheels, pull the axles, drop out diff, reassemble. It's super easy.

Troy

[justcruisin]

Presume you are talking 8 3/4, probably doesn't effect you but the early diffs had a difference in the thrust block length from open to sure grip, that will effect the axles.

[Just 6T9 CHGR]

I bought a Sure-Grip unit from Dr Diff a few years ago....cost a little over $500 for the unit itself and the bearings installed by him....