I need tips (or advice) about restoring my 400 engine

[ppaavvss]

Then my suggestion would be to get a modern engine and put it in place of the 400. There are plenty of kits out there to convert a 5.7 hemi or 6.4 if you want that extra little boost.

that's a good option, I'm going to study as many as I can.

I have been seening some engines in ebay just to have an idea about pricing and specs.

[69wannabe]

Looks like someone put a chevy carb on it, from the looks of it the carb is a mid to late 70's quadrajet carb. As much as I hate to admit it these are really good running carburetors when they are fixed right. If it has dried out and has the white chalky stuff inside of it then usually it's junk. I had a cutlass before I got into mopars and had an awesome q-jet on it. A spread bore carb like a thermoquad and the q-jet's usually don't do well with a healthy camshaft but from the sound of your issue the only option will be going to a newer modern engine set up but it will be expensive to go that route...

[Nacho-RT74]

I can't believe you won't be able to use/register the car... even in Europe where there are lot of controls you can run a classic car. Usually these cars gets softer regulations somehow... maybe registering the car with a classic car support and will be able to drive it some hundred of miles per year.

Go to a local classic car club and ask them. I don't think you are the first or only one dealing with this. I don't think all classic cars there fill the emission requirements or even change the motor for a modern one to meet the requirements This is not a Mopar deal, but any old car deal. You should be able to get some guidance from anybody on the classic cars world

The fact is with the stock motor THERE IS NO WAY to meet the requirements even changing the fuel system. Modern cars are computarized controling fuel and ignition supplies.

Abot the carb... Chrysler someday in the 80s changed to Cuadrajet since Carter stopped the production. Thermoquad ( carter ) is the one you should have. Since you won't be able to meet emission requirements in any way, I simply would go to the basic stock restoration, with some internal toys to get more juice from it ( KB240 pistons and magnum cam should be enough ) and in that way you could meet the "classic" status, and get fun with what you'll have... If you add external and visible toys such as headers or aftermarket performance parts mostly sure you'll loose the "classic" status to be able to drive the car... just my 2 cents.

[ppaavvss]

Looks like someone put a chevy carb on it, from the looks of it the carb is a mid to late 70's quadrajet carb. As much as I hate to admit it these are really good running carburetors when they are fixed right. If it has dried out and has the white chalky stuff inside of it then usually it's junk. I had a cutlass before I got into mopars and had an awesome q-jet on it. A spread bore carb like a thermoquad and the q-jet's usually don't do well with a healthy camshaft but from the sound of your issue the only option will be going to a newer modern engine set up but it will be expensive to go that route...

thanks a lot! I really appreciate your help, I am no experienced with carbs so I am doing research and learning about them!.

[ppaavvss]

I can't believe you won't be able to use/register the car... even in Europe where there are lot of controls you can run a classic car. Usually these cars gets softer regulations somehow... maybe registering the car with a classic car support and will be able to drive it some hundred of miles per year.

Go to a local classic car club and ask them. I don't think you are the first or only one dealing with this. I don't think all classic cars there fill the emission requirements or even change the motor for a modern one to meet the requirements This is not a Mopar deal, but any old car deal. You should be able to get some guidance from anybody on the classic cars world

The fact is with the stock motor THERE IS NO WAY to meet the requirements even changing the fuel system. Modern cars are computarized controling fuel and ignition supplies.

Abot the carb... Chrysler someday in the 80s changed to Cuadrajet since Carter stopped the production. Thermoquad ( carter ) is the one you should have. Since you won't be able to meet emission requirements in any way, I simply would go to the basic stock restoration, with some internal toys to get more juice from it ( KB240 pistons and magnum cam should be enough ) and in that way you could meet the "classic" status, and get fun with what you'll have... If you add external and visible toys such as headers or aftermarket performance parts mostly sure you'll loose the "classic" status to be able to drive the car... just my 2 cents.

Hi Nacho, I will go to the car club as you say! For me I believe that is the best option!

You are experienced in the 400 engine, so I have a couple of questions to you:

1. You have a 451 on your charger? If so, I would like to know if the gearbox is able to work properly with that HP and torque.

2. How mucho power does it gains? How is the drive experience with that engine?

3. I was thinking that for the reasons I said before, theres is no way to pass emissions test... so there is no problem about modifying my engine to improve it (that is why I asked you about the 451, I would like to do something like that.

On week end a will take pictures of my gear box, because I do not know if it is the stock one, and post the photos here!

Every picture you need just tell me!

Here are two pics of the engine

[Nacho-RT74]

I went with the basic build just using what I had in hands with the 400 parts ( rods ), posted here

http://www.houstonmopars.org/stroker.html

Got "by accident" a stock forged 440 crank, so decided to go with the "451" build. It is actually a 448 because is 0.020" overbore. A 451 is made with a 0.033" overbore. Just used pistons as an aftermarket piece, although went with a Crower cam after that.


Just in case and if your block is nice on standard bore just needing a hone job, I have for sale New in box Pistons

http://www.dodgecharger.com/forum/index.php/topic,127205.0.html

I had these to build the stroker standard ( 444 ) but made a mistake cuting the cilinder steps ( which were barelly 0.002" ) with a tool and had to go 0.020". I should just hone them. The standard KB pistons are made a bit bigger than the stock factory bore considering the regular wear cylinders should be on a running engine, so they are made for bigger tolerances ( I have the specs KB crew told me about them, on an email )

I have also a MP 280/.474 camshaft kit on its box I can get rid off. I was to use it, but a friend of mine have one on his 400 and it seemed a bit "lumpy" for me since I wanted to use th AC. The Crower I have is a bit less lumpy due the wider centerline and smaller intake duration  at 0.050 althought pretty much similar to the MP I have. The MP camshaft I have got some rust cavities on front track because the box got wet for long time ( didn't noticed the wall was getting humidity ), but take it to a machine job to check it and they told me is still nice to run it.

[Nacho-RT74]

about power... It is NOTICEABLE the power increase from the stock 400, however I never have taken to a Dyno. I juts build to get fun with it whichever power it has. Someday will take it to a Dyno.

Rest of driveline holds nicelly the power behing that engine, Don't worry. There are bigger HP builds still on stock driveline and holds it nicelly. This basic stroker is allmost a street build, maybe like you were building an Hemi, and Hemis are a stock build on a stock driveline. Remember the 451 is not more than a 440 on a lighter 400 housing, and lighter rotation assembly too.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=wrZo8-7uvDs

I never build the engine for 1/4 mile race even SOMEDAY will take to the track just to know what I have in hands, not for win anything.

take in mind if your block still holds standard bore, I have the pistons for it.

[ppaavvss]

I went with the basic build just using what I had in hands with the 400 parts ( rods ), posted here

http://www.houstonmopars.org/stroker.html

Got "by accident" a stock forged 440 crank, so decided to go with the "451" build. It is actually a 448 because is 0.020" overbore. A 451 is made with a 0.033" overbore. Just used pistons as an aftermarket piece, although went with a Crower cam after that.


Just in case and if your block is nice on standard bore just needing a hone job, I have for sale New in box Pistons

http://www.dodgecharger.com/forum/index.php/topic,127205.0.html

I had these to build the stroker standard ( 444 ) but made a mistake cuting the cilinder steps ( which were barelly 0.002" ) with a tool and had to go 0.020". I should just hone them. The standard KB pistons are made a bit bigger than the stock factory bore considering the regular wear cylinders should be on a running engine, so they are made for bigger tolerances ( I have the specs KB crew told me about them, on an email )

I have also a MP 280/.474 camshaft kit on its box I can get rid off. I was to use it, but a friend of mine have one on his 400 and it seemed a bit "lumpy" for me since I wanted to use th AC. The Crower I have is a bit less lumpy due the wider centerline and smaller intake duration  at 0.050 althought pretty much similar to the MP I have. The MP camshaft I have got some rust cavities on front track because the box got wet for long time ( didn't noticed the wall was getting humidity ), but take it to a machine job to check it and they told me is still nice to run it.

Thanks a lot Nacho, I am checking the info you gave me !

[ppaavvss]

about power... It is NOTICEABLE the power increase from the stock 400, however I never have taken to a Dyno. I juts build to get fun with it whichever power it has. Someday will take it to a Dyno.

Rest of driveline holds nicelly the power behing that engine, Don't worry. There are bigger HP builds still on stock driveline and holds it nicelly. This basic stroker is allmost a street build, maybe like you were building an Hemi, and Hemis are a stock build on a stock driveline. Remember the 451 is not more than a 440 on a lighter 400 housing, and lighter rotation assembly too.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=wrZo8-7uvDs

I never build the engine for 1/4 mile race even SOMEDAY will take to the track just to know what I have in hands, not for win anything.

take in mind if your block still holds standard bore, I have the pistons for it.

Nacho you did a GREAT job your charger is a BEAST!!

[Nacho-RT74]

OH and also I didn't go with a fancy chromed look on engine bay... I love the stock look just like a sleeper. A car able to look pure stock on a show once hood is open, and just noticeable the job on engine when is running.

Heads were ported by me, bigger valves too, I hate headers so used the stock HP exhaust manifolds ( even I know the headers are the first performance step to get some extra HPs, but didn't care about, I hate the headers riding on streets and meet a bump ). Intake is the basic 2186 ( performer, but not the RPM Performer ) Edelbrock cheap piece which I got used and painted to the stock engine color. This intake is allmost an aluminium replacement for the iron piece, but still is a bit higher than the stock piece, so can get more port velocity than the stock piece. I had to cut some areas of the intake to install correctly all the stock A/C brackets

Is a beast? dunno, definitelly looks GREAT, but dunno really if is an HP or torque beast LOL... I just build it having fun with it without really care about get all the juice posible from it. Maybe I should combine some other pieces too, like headers and better intake, but wasn't my goal really. Pretty sure still can be tuned better too. Engine is dissasembled at this moment to make some block deck corrections ( bad machine shop job ) and the correct quench to save from pinging I was having when assembled. Car is also at a body job since 5 years ago.

[Nacho-RT74]

this are the specs on the standard bore KB pistons

The skirt diameter on a KB215.STD is 4.3410" to 4.3405".  If your bore is at  nominal 4.342" you will have .001" to .0015" so you may have to hone to get .0015" to .002" recommended clearance.

Thank you for the inquiry,

Marko

Marko Glush

So if your block is standard and the bore diameter gets up to 4.344" after a hone job and considering the regular wear and saving the ring step by this wear, you will be fine with standard KB pistons like the ones I have available for sale. A 451 ( down a 0.030"-0.033" overbore size ) displacement sounds GREAT, but a 444 ( build on standard bore ) on same build is practically the same. The compression rate increase and longer stroke is what will make the difference, more than those 6-7 cubic inches difference between a "444" and a "451", without need to cut the cylinders more than really needed.

Is really like compare a standard 440 and a +0.030" 440 in performance. If you don't need really to cut the block, why make it ?

[Nacho-RT74]

This is the more important article about this build and used as a main reference on Mopar world. Here is where the counterweight diameter cut is adviced ( with measurements ) for extra clearence.

http://arengineering.com/tech/451-manifesto/

I didn't posted before just because they advice to use 440 rods and makes mention to some other jobs ( which tipically ppl makes ). I posted the other one just showing exactly what I build, nothing fancy but pretty much basic, meeting even the camshaft advice from the author of the article. The MP I have and can get rid off meets this advice, same as the crower I finally used

there are some threads about this build "for homies" on this board, posted by engine experts here ( far away from what I am ). I think was written by Challenger340, including some pics.

once again, I build it with what I had in hands "on the cheap", and meeting my "needs". Really didn't need more than a "basic" build. Is the first performance engine I build

[ppaavvss]

This is the more important article about this build and used as a main reference on Mopar world. Here is where the counterweight diameter cut is adviced ( with measurements ) for extra clearence.

http://arengineering.com/tech/451-manifesto/

I didn't posted before just because they advice to use 440 rods and makes mention to some other jobs ( which tipically ppl makes ). I posted the other one just showing exactly what I build, nothing fancy but pretty much basic, meeting even the camshaft advice from the author of the article. The MP I have and can get rid off meets this advice, same as the crower I finally used

there are some threads about this build "for homies" on this board, posted by engine experts here ( far away from what I am ). I think was written by Challenger340, including some pics.

once again, I build it with what I had in hands "on the cheap", and meeting my "needs". Really didn't need more than a "basic" build. Is the first performance engine I build

Nacho thank you very much to guide me about all this stuff, now I am going to read all the information you gave me and soon I will post the step by step a I did to my engine.

I am not looking to gain 500 hp but to improve my 400 engine, so I really appreciate your help and time helping me!