Repo Manifolds (and Shorty headers):

[Captain D]

Hi all,

I'm leaning towards exhaust manifolds vs. headers for the 69' Charger 383 BB. While there are a variety of originals on the net to be restored, I was hoping to get new reproductions as I've been told that the originals (even if re-coated) have a risk of being warped, etc. However, Year One repros are up to in excess of $600,  . With that being said, just curious over the course of the winter to find out if there are other suppliers of repro exhaust manifolds somewhat cheaper in price, but with good quality based on your experiences. Or, as a 'plan b,' do many folks here believe that originals are just as good once re-coated / restored?

Thank you for your time & insight,
Aaron

[BLK 68 R/T]

In my experience, original parts always fit better than reproduction parts. You should be able to find an original set in the 250-400 dollar range. Put a want add on here, ebay, craigslist, etc.

[BSB67]

I don't know a thing about reproduction exhaust manifolds or know anyone with personal experience.  That said, I have found that all reproduction stuff that I have purchased never measures up to original, never.  Maybe some stuff does, and maybe the manifolds do.

If the mating surfaces look reasonable, Remflex gaskets will seal them up.

[birdsandbees]

Neither of my original sets are warped after 48 years and I know for certain one set was run pretty red hot on many a night.

Sure can't say that for todays crap... My 2003 F150 exhaust manifolds cracked in half the second year!

That said, any machine shop with a surface grinder can lick a warped set flat PDQ if you straight edge a used pair and they're a bit off.

[Captain D]

Thank you for the replies & info gents - much 'preciated! 

One last question...if I did purchase an original pair, would it be best to have them ceramic coated both inside & out or would merely cleaning them up externally with super high temp primer + paint with, for example, the Eastwood name-brand be just as good? I realize having them treated both inside & out would be ideal, but if they were re-done just externally, how long would that coating last, just out of curiosity?

Thank you again!

[birdsandbees]

Check out my Super Bee resto thread. I media blasted my original manifolds (that had minimal patina on them after 47 years) and was going to leave them at that considering how little they rusted over 5 decades.. but then sprayed them with ceramic HHeat "cast iron" and baked them in the oven.

[Bronzedodge]

That said, any machine shop with a surface grinder can lick a warped set flat PDQ if you straight edge a used pair and they're a bit off.

Yup.  When I re ringed my 383 I had a shop true them on a surface grinder.  I reinstalled them like the factory - no gaskets.  I used all new studs and sleeve nuts.  No leaks, over 3 years now.

[Captain D]

Thanks again gents - you guys rock,  ,

Sounds as if I don't have to get a pair of original manifolds coated internally necessarily. The key, if I am understanding correctly, is to have them media blasted, then apply ceramic high heat cast iron primer & paint followed by having them baked. However, when you say 'baked in the oven,' I'm assuming it's simply a kitchen / conventional oven...if so, what temperature is it to be set at & how long are they to be in there for? I suppose I could always just stick a thermometer in it & watch for it to pop up when done like a turkey, ha ha, lol. Anyhow, I'm doing some research on Corro-Paint for exhaust pieces. Between VHT, Eastwood, etc., there seems a lot of rust prevention brands to pick & choose from.

Thank you & best regards,
Aaron

[Simonic]

I bought a set of the Y1 repro manifold when they first started making them.
No problems at all.
Sealed at the heads no problem .
Mated up to my TTI exhaust correctly.
They carry a pentastar and part numbers.
The only drawback is that they have a large Y1 logo in the casting also
I'd buy em again

[Charger-Bodie]

Www.megapartsusa.com sells the y1 manifolds cheaper than year one does.

[Captain D]

Charger-Bodie - Thanks for the link and 'heads-up' as that is a great find, my friend. I'm looking for easy access in swapping out starters and manifolds seem to be among the most ideal. The high torque mini starters that I bookmarked thus far are price ranges from $128-$250:

http://www.manciniracing.com/manraclighit.html

http://www.jegs.com/i/TCI/890/351500/10002/-1?utm_source=criteo&utm_medium=cpc&utm_campaign=retargeting

[375instroke]

The high torque mini starters that I bookmarked thus far are price ranges from $128-$250:

https://www.dbelectrical.com/products/mini-mopar-dodge-plymouth-starter-super-torque-17466-snd0088.html

[Captain D]

Thanks man for the link - I'm super tempted to purchase a DB Electrical high torque mini-starter (vs. the $250 racing starter from Jegs) after reading some positive threads on this forum about them. The 'only' pause that I have is that I read on some miscellaneous chat forums that:

..."these starters need to be wired a bit differently or else the gear stays out for about a second after the engine fires which will kill the starter shortly." With that being said, is there anything in particular that the shop needs to do or be aware of when installing the DB Electrical starter into my 69' Charger / 383 BB, just out of curiosity? Overall, I'm hoping and curious what the longevity / reliability is with the DB Electrical mini starters.

While we're on the topic of exhaust manifolds, etc., has anyone tried installing a pair of Hedman shorty headers, just out of curiosity? If so, did you have to raise the motor up when installing the shorty headers and are the mini starters easily accessible to swap out if need be with these shorty headers...? Perhaps this set-up (shorty headers and a mini starter) can be an easy fix if something goes amiss and serve as a good combo...

Thanks again for any and all input,
Aaron  

[Nacho-RT74]

While there are a variety of originals on the net to be restored, I was hoping to get new reproductions as I've been told that the originals (even if re-coated) have a risk of being warped, etc.

we are talking Mopar, no Chebby

[justcruisin]

The only way the starter can be wired different is to switch the main battery cable through a solenoid, the small energising wire should already be wired through the booster relay mounted on the inner fender. If the starter is fit for application there is no need to wire it any different than any other, if it stays in mesh once the key is released there is another issue. Its just a Nippon Denso starter.

[Captain D]

Thanks again there gents,

I like double-checkin' stuff, lol, but I agree - the reviews on the DB Electrical mini starters, though cheaper, seem to have good reviews from what I've been told / read so far. Any input on the shorty headers, just out of curiosity...? In doing some searches here, I couldn't find too much just yet with regards to accessibility to the mini starters and the shorty headers. But, just going on my limited knowledge - it would seem like a good combo. Of course, I can simply call Hedman tomorrow to get some info...I just value any info here from guys who may have actually ran this set-up vs. folks merely sitting behind a desk and trying to sell a 'product.'

Thanks again and best regards,
Aaron

[Sublime/Sixpack]

FWIW I have three sets of stock HP manifolds on big blocks and no problems with leakage. And just like the factory I don't use gaskets. They're pretty stout pieces.

[Captain D]

Thanks man for the info,

Yeah, I've been searching for a good pair of HP manifolds for my 383 BB, but they seem to be a lil' on the rare side & pricey ($400-ish). I've seen a few decent pairs on Ebay, so they're out there - just deciding which to pull the trigger on as I'm keepin' my eyes and ears open for a good pair. I may just opt for the repro Year One's if need be...

[Charger-Bodie]

Thanks man for the info,

Yeah, I've been searching for a good pair of HP manifolds for my 383 BB, but they seem to be a lil' on the rare side & pricey ($400-ish). I've seen a few decent pairs on Ebay, so they're out there - just deciding which to pull the trigger on as I'm keepin' my eyes and ears open for a good pair. I may just opt for the repro Year One's if need be...

I have a really nice set on eBay.

[Bronzedodge]

Come to Carlisle, or other such large swap meet meet wherever you are.  There's several manifold options at those.

[Ghoste]

And for a little comparison, although the 600 for repro manifolds is a fair chunk of change, a GOOD set of headers that fit can cost you more than that.

[c00nhunterjoe]

How often are you guys replacing starters to worry about clearance? My last made it 17 yrs and outlasted the engine.