FelPro 1215 gasket

[Silver R/T]

Does it have 4 gaskets, so 2 go under valley pan and 2 go over it under intake manifold?

[Just 6T9 CHGR]

yes it does come with 4 paper gaskets

[Chryco Psycho]

it comes with 4 gaskets , I onl;y ever use 2 though , between the pan & heads to seal the oil / lifter valley , most of the time you won`t even get the intake back on with all 4 gaskets in there

[jackel440]

I too saw that these come with the 4 gaskets in a catalog ,but why?,when the factory didn't use them.why not just put some gasket sealer on both sides of the valley pan and bolt it together.I have done this in the past and had no problems.
I just wondered why they include them?

[Silver R/T]

for better heat insulation imo

[Just 6T9 CHGR]

Because of the use of aftermarket aluminum intakes and the fact that a lot of 35+ year old heads & blocks might have been milled

[GreenMachine]

Because of the use of aftermarket aluminum intakes and the fact that a lot of 35+ year old heads & blocks might have been milled

   Yes, they make great shims, use however many you need to line up the boltholes.

[jackel440]

I never even thought about milled heads and pooor fitting intakes and such Duh!!!

[694spdRT]

Because of the use of aftermarket aluminum intakes and the fact that a lot of 35+ year old heads & blocks might have been milled

I am trying to visualize this in my head but, wouldn't using paper gaskets on milled heads and blocks make it worse? I had to have the intake milled on the old 383 in the '68 to get it to fit right. 

I does get confusing because the original head gaskets were steel shims and most go with thicker composite ones now too.

[beenaround]

according to an old direct connection book i have these gaskets were to be used on 6 pack cars that were burning oil.the vacuum from the intake would suck oil from under the valley pan.the root cause was as others here have guessed was poorly machined intakes.i seem to remember that early 70 6 packs came with the aluminum intake,but many of them were such a poor fit that they were replaced with the cast iron version.this book was published in 1977 but I'm not sure when this infomation was first published.they also listed the factory part# for the gaskets.to sum this up i think some engineer came up with these gaskets so chrysler wouldn't have to replace poorly machined intakes under warranty.

[Chryco Psycho]

Yes , using a paper gasket with milled heads or block makes it worse

[Big Sugar]

Good Topic ! I used a gasket between the head and Valley pan and sealant between the intake and pan,
It all went together with no problems ( Running Aluminum 6 pack Edelbrock ) Although I notice quite a bit more Heat "Tinking" than before (Used sealant only no gaskets) The "Tinking" starts very quickly even before the Engine shows a temperature reading ? Could it be the manifold is too tight ? or is it just seating in ?
The Manifold shouldn't require retorquing should it ?


Ron

[Chryco Psycho]

I alsways retorque the intakes as a habit , they are virtually always loose

[Big Sugar]

What do you Torque down to ? I torqued them to 50 ftlbs.


Ron

[firefighter3931]

What do you Torque down to ? I torqued them to 50 ftlbs.


Ron

That's too much Ron ; 25-30 ftlbs is plenty.

Ron

[Big Sugar]

Could that be the reason for all the " Tinking " ?

Ron

[66FBCharger]

I received my Fel Pro1215 gaskets the other day. I am planning on installing it in the next few weeks. I am using the stock cast iron intake. Do I need to use any of the paper gaskets? If so, what  is the best adhesive to use to glue the paper gasket to the metal valley pan? If only one gasket is needed, should I put it on the intake side or the head side?

[Ghoste]

I have always just used the valley pan with no issues.  The single time I did try to use the paper ones the intake would not install correctly.

[66FBCharger]

Thats what I always did and never had an issue. In fact, I don't remember ever getting paper gaskets with the valley pan.

[Ghoste]

The last few times I bought one it came that way but they never used to.

[firefighter3931]

I received my Fel Pro1215 gaskets the other day. I am planning on installing it in the next few weeks. I am using the stock cast iron intake. Do I need to use any of the paper gaskets? If so, what  is the best adhesive to use to glue the paper gasket to the metal valley pan? If only one gasket is needed, should I put it on the intake side or the head side?

Wow, this is an old thread ! 

I use Permatex Ultra Copper high temp RTV on both sides of the valley pan around the ports and put a bead on the end rails with a little dab in the corners of the end rails. Let it set-up over night and torque down in the morning. No paper gaskets 


Ron

[Ghoste]

Yes, I have used the sealer as well.  That Permatex copper is fantastic stuff.

[66FBCharger]

I received my Fel Pro1215 gaskets the other day. I am planning on installing it in the next few weeks. I am using the stock cast iron intake. Do I need to use any of the paper gaskets? If so, what  is the best adhesive to use to glue the paper gasket to the metal valley pan? If only one gasket is needed, should I put it on the intake side or the head side?

Wow, this is an old thread ! 

I use Permatex Ultra Copper high temp RTV on both sides of the valley pan around the ports and put a bead on the end rails with a little dab in the corners of the end rails. Let it set-up over night and torque down in the morning. No paper gaskets 


Ron

Ron,
Just so I don't misunderstand, you put the copper RTV on the valley pan and assembly the pan and intake. I'm assuming you put all the bolts in hand tight then the next day you torque the bolts?

[firefighter3931]

I received my Fel Pro1215 gaskets the other day. I am planning on installing it in the next few weeks. I am using the stock cast iron intake. Do I need to use any of the paper gaskets? If so, what  is the best adhesive to use to glue the paper gasket to the metal valley pan? If only one gasket is needed, should I put it on the intake side or the head side?

Wow, this is an old thread ! 

I use Permatex Ultra Copper high temp RTV on both sides of the valley pan around the ports and put a bead on the end rails with a little dab in the corners of the end rails. Let it set-up over night and torque down in the morning. No paper gaskets 


Ron

Ron,
Just so I don't misunderstand, you put the copper RTV on the valley pan and assembly the pan and intake. I'm assuming you put all the bolts in hand tight then the next day you torque the bolts?

Correct, the idea is to just snug the intake manifold down. If you tighten it too much you will push the rtv out before it has time to cure. 


Ron