Door assembly, all those rods, clips and things that for locks

[green69rt]

Started assembly of the door guts.  First was the outside door handle (new repro) and lock(polished original).  Pic #1.
Soaked that lock works in degreaser for a couple of days, dried them off and sprayed with WD40.  Pic #2.
Installed and hooked up the leakages.  Pic #3.

[green69rt]

Here's how it goes together, in detail for the passenger side.  First the disclaimer - This is the way I did it and it works fine,  there are probably other order of assembly.

Pic #1 - these are all the part that are required.  The following notes refer to these parts as item 1, item 2, etc.

Pic #2 - the previous owner had bought new handles.  When I opened the package and compared them to the old handles I could see that the rod attachment point was different.  I just cleaned the old attachment and swapped it for the new one.  Only one screw and it's done.

Pic #3 - I just had the car painted and some paint ends up closing up the mounting holes,  Sand or file all the paint out.  These parts can fit tight and if you don't you may end up chipping the paint around the holes.  

Pic #4 - now mount the outside door handle (with the correct attachment point , Item 7) and the lock barrel Items 2 and 5.)

Pic #5 - I cleaned the lock mechanism (Item 1) by soaking in degreaser for a couple of days, a little brushing and then sprayed the whole thing down with WD40.

Pic #6 - attach the rod from the mechanism to the lock barrel.  It was easiest to do this with the mechanism hanging outside the door.  It takes a little maneuvering.

Pic #7 - then screw the mechanism to the door and also attach the lock linkage to the door.  This is what it should look like.

Pic #8 - This is what it looks like from the outside.  Three philips screw (Item 9) and the two hex screws for the pivot.

[green69rt]

Pic #1 - now attach the shaft (Item #3 ) that goes between the door handle thumb button and the lock mechanism.  Easy, hope you saved the little clips.

Pic #2 - now this has to be done right.  The linkage between the lock button on top of the door and the mechanism (Item 10) needs to be right.  This is the orientation of the links and the pivot.  This only exists because the button is moved forward on a 69 Charger.  Top rod goes to the button and the side rod goes to the mechanism.
Notice how the center pivot is oriented, like an upside down L.

Pic #3 - This shows the mounting position, the bottom hole is punched in the metal, if you feel behind the door metal you can feel the raised hole.  This raised hole goes in the slot of the linkage (Item 10).  Hex screw goes in the top hole.

Pic #4 - this is the support ( Item 11) for the long rod (Item 6) that goes between the inside door handle (Item 13) and the lock mechanism (Item 1).  One screw and an alignment tab and its done.

Pic #5 - now attach the rod (Item 6) to the lock mechanism (Item 1) first.

Pic #6 - then attach to the door handle.   Almost forgot to add - the anti-rattle cloth tube on the rod (Item 6) was so bad it fell apart in my fingers.  I took some 1/4" outside diameter tubing, split it down the length and used that to insulate the rod.  You can see it in the last two pics.



Hope this helps someone.

[cdr]

Well done Mitch !!!!

[green69rt]

I had a little hiccup with the door glass channel and here was the solution.

http://www.dodgecharger.com/forum/index.php/topic,130658.msg1624901.html#msg1624901

Sent some of the vent window parts off for rechrome.    Costs for chrome work seems to have gone up over the last 6 or 8 years.  $600 for the vent window frames and associated parts, wow!

[HeavyFuel]

Very nice.

I followed a little different train of thought regarding the anti-rattle covering on the rod.  I suspect that the mechanism designers use cloth to allow the rod to slide freely on the support hook. So I used some tough, low friction woven tubing that is used to contain and organize small wires/cables.  Seemed to work well.

https://www.cableorganizer.com/expandable-sleeving/

[green69rt]

Very nice.

I followed a little different train of thought regarding the anti-rattle covering on the rod.  I suspect that the mechanism designers use cloth to allow the rod to slide freely on the support hook. So I used some tough, low friction woven tubing that is used to contain and organize small wires/cables.  Seemed to work well.

https://www.cableorganizer.com/expandable-sleeving/

If I had thought to use your tube I would have, just didn't think about it.

[chargedup68]

Great thread!  After 16 years, I am finally at the point of putting things back together.  Would appreciate it if you got similar pictures of how to put windows back in.

[green69rt]

Great thread!  After 16 years, I am finally at the point of putting things back together.  Would appreciate it if you got similar pictures of how to put windows back in.

There are, usually, others that have done almost all of the assembly of our cars.   Here's one for the door glass that I plan to follow.

http://www.dodgecharger.com/forum/index.php/topic,39415.0.html

Here's one from the same guy on the vent window.

http://www.dodgecharger.com/forum/index.php/topic,38431.0.html

[pipeliner]

Major shout out for the pics!!! You are my hero!!! Just starting to put my doors and windows back together. Thanks again!!!!

[green69rt]

Been trying to get all the pieces together to put the windows back in the doors.   Seems like I spend half my time working on stuff and half running down parts I've misplaced or ordering little things that I've lost, broken or never had.  Anyway, I think I've finally got everything together except the plastic rivets that attach the window glass to the lift bracket, but they're coming from National Mo-parts.  I also need to spend a little time polishing the window glass,   I can't believe how expensive the pieces that go on the front of the windows are.  Anywhere from $75 to $100 a piece!!  Crazy.

[johnnycharger]

This is an awesome write up that should by stickied.

[green69rt]

The picture below shows a steering column with a big spring on the bottom end.  Just started on mine and there is no spring.  Mine is a column shift and I think the one in the picture is for a floor shift.  Is that why mine has no spring?   I can't find the spring in any of the assembly drawings?

[green69rt]

Just something to show I'm not loafing.  Rear view mirrors installed.

[matchek]

Thank you Mitch these are really great pictures  - as good as it gets.    Here is my issue maybe it will ring some bells.       When I lock the passenger side door, it looks from the inside of the car.  However, you can unlock the door by depressing the button of the door handle of the outside of the car without the key.     Would you happen to have any opinion on that?   I know you said something about alignment is critical.   Some has said it could be a faulty lock cylinder as well.    I don't know if the cylinder was messed with or not but it was painted 2 years ago by the previous owner so it could have been.

[green69rt]

Thank you Mitch these are really great pictures  - as good as it gets.    Here is my issue maybe it will ring some bells.       When I lock the passenger side door, it looks from the inside of the car.  However, you can unlock the door by depressing the button of the door handle of the outside of the car without the key.     Would you happen to have any opinion on that?   I know you said something about alignment is critical.   Some has said it could be a faulty lock cylinder as well.    I don't know if the cylinder was messed with or not but it was painted 2 years ago by the previous owner so it could have been.

two thoughts come to mind.   Faulty lock cylinder, which someone else mentioned.  Or the position of the locking mechanism is wrong.  If you look thru my thread You'll see the picture of the locking assembly and its rods and how it attached to the door, there two hex bolts and three Philips screws.  There is some adjustment to be done there to make everything work correctly.  Loosen up the two hex bolts and move the bracket inside up or down to see if you problem goes away or gets better.  I think it is the top Philips screw that adjusts the distance the locking rod needs to move to engage the lock.  You may need to play around with these two things to get every thing to work correcty.  I don't remember if any of this info is in the FSM. Good luck.

Edit: I completely mislead yo an the Philips screw adjustment.  The adjustment tis made using an allen wrench in the hole to the right of the lock assembly.  Sorry for the confusion.

[johnnycharger]

 

[Gregory]

I'm just putting my door locks and handles together and I'm running into an issue.

Question: I have put together the passenger door and everything seems to be working okay EXCEPT when I lock the door and pull the inside handle the door stays locked. I've never owned one of these cars all together and this is my first time putting a 69 charger together. When the passenger (or driver) door is locked, either with the key or by depressing the lock rod inside the car, will the car automatically unlock when you pull the inside door handle? As in, will the door automatically unlock when the lever to open the door from the inside is pulled.

NOTE: I have a spare door complete, 100% stick driver from a 70 charger and it does this function, when the door is locked, pulling the inside handle will pop the door lock up and unlock the door and allow the door to open.