Brake problem, this ones got me stumped!!!! update-fixed!!!!

[69chargeryeehaa]

ok, here's the deal, 69 charger 440/727, 3.23 gears, 8 3/4 suregrip, 4 wheel stock drum brakes. the problem is the drivers rear drum gets HOT when just driving normally, all other wheels are just warm, and the one drivers rear is like really hot. i've had the whole thing apart, both sides, everything looks perfect, i've lubed everything with anti seize, one thing i noticed was odd was that whom ever did the brakes last switched the adjusters from side to side (LH on RHside, and RH on LHside). i switched it back, i guess they wanted to adjust them manually? the brakes are not dragging, the parking brake cables work perfectly, i had it all apart, and tested everything. i have replaced brake booster (cause it was shot), both rear wheel cylinders, and the master cyl is about 2 yrs old. car stops perfect with no pull. i'm about to give up and have no idea what is causing this issue. with the wheels off the ground (both rear) there is no dragging of the brakes, and i can remove the drum no problem. it is not the wheel bearings, it's clearly the brakes, they are burnt, and you can smell them after driving for about 20 mins. funny thing is in netural there is no drag, the car will roll on the slightest incline. the only thing that comes to mind is that that one wheel for some reason is doing too much braking. there is a splitter on the rear diff that is also the vent, is that some kinda valve? what you guys think? this ones got me stumpped, i've had everything apart 3 times, and i can find nothing and no other symptoms except the drum getting really hot.

[Plumcrazy]

Maybe the rear brake hose?
I realize the fluid for both rear brakes goes thru that hose but it is closer to the drivers side brake.

[BigBlackDodge]

Did this start happening after you replaced the booster?

BBD

[69chargeryeehaa]

hoses, and lines are new, drums are new.  totally bumfounded here

[69chargeryeehaa]

Did this start happening after you replaced the booster?

BBD

no, both before and after.

[Blue Pentastar]

Have you checked your new line between the splitter and the wheel cyl for a kink or posssible obstruction. If it was a rubber line instead of metal I would suggest you replace it again. Sometimes the brake fluid doesn't bleed back up the line as quickly as it should do to an obstruction a kink or bend that is to tight. This does not release the wheel cylnder until it is already to hot.

My 

Mike

[69chargeryeehaa]

Have you checked your new line between the splitter and the wheel cyl for a kink or posssible obstruction. If it was a rubber line instead of metal I would suggest you replace it again. Sometimes the brake fluid doesn't bleed back up the line as quickly as it should do to an obstruction a kink or bend that is to tight. This does not release the wheel cylnder until it is already to hot.

My 

Mike

the issue was the same before i changed the brake lines, from the "T" at the axle on was changed, new hoses, and i blew them out they are clean and no obstructions.

[Blue Pentastar]

Ok  the drum gets really hot but do you feel the car atually drag down at this point or is this just what makes sensce. I am just trying to help don't take offence at my ramblings. Is it possible that the axle shaft or housing is slightly bent or not adjusted right or maybe this isn't a adjustable bearing style. I am assuming that the right gear lube has been added or did the previous owner add that. If you don't know it might be a good idea to add the chrysler additive as you know it should stink to high heaven. if it smells like regular gear lube you need to add some additive.

Hope this helps.

Mike

[69chargeryeehaa]

Ok  the drum gets really hot but do you feel the car atually drag down at this point or is this just what makes sensce. I am just trying to help don't take offence at my ramblings. Is it possible that the axle shaft or housing is slightly bent or not adjusted right or maybe this isn't a adjustable bearing style. I am assuming that the right gear lube has been added or did the previous owner add that. If you don't know it might be a good idea to add the chrysler additive as you know it should stink to high heaven. if it smells like regular gear lube you need to add some additive.

Hope this helps.

Mike

those are all great points, i've changed the gear oil and put the modifier in, used 80W90 GL5 oil, and adjusted the axle endplay to 0.010", actually i did'nt adjust it cause it was dead on.  i thought too that it could be a axle problem, and drove the car with the door open watching the wheel, it's perfectly straight, and i ran my wheel without the center cap, drove it for 10 mins normally, felt the hub, which was cold, and the drum is HOT, very hot, actually burnt my fingers on it.  i'm convinced the axles and axle bearings are perfect, that would not explain burnt brakes???  i smell the shoes burning when driving.  i also tried just coasting to a stop at a light on just a slight incline in neutral, the car rolls to a stop and rolls back with no resistance, wheels off the ground the brakes are'nt dragging.  but i am fighting the suregrip when turning the wheels both off the ground so as far as i can tell there is no drag, the wheels turn with the same resistance with the drums on or off, no change. 

[Blue Pentastar]

Ok is there any possiblity That the bearing is the wrong one or is not fitting right. Hence When the weight of the car is on the axle does it move up thus causeing the bottom of the drum to rub. the only other thing i can think of is the backing plate being bent or loose but that too seems unlikely. I am still thinking hopefully we will figure this out soon.

Mike

[Blue Pentastar]

Ok grasping for straws time have you thought about switching the drums side to side. I guess it is possible to have a warped drum which if loose enough would pull off easy but rub under load. Just another thought.

Mike

[69chargeryeehaa]

OK, just finished checking it all out, you'll never guess what the problem was........................the parking brake leaver on the shoe had alot of side to side play, and when you put on the parking brake the leaver would jump over the shoe and snag on that, causing the brakes to be engaged, but only the one shoe, just enough to drag and heat up, but not enough resistance so notice when driving.   damm thing, i put a small washer under the leaver and bent it so it doe'snt happen anymore.  just goes to show you that it was a simple problem after all.  thanks for all the replies, it really got me thinking about the problem.

[Plumcrazy]

There should be a small wave washer between the lever and the shoe.  You shouldn't have a problem finding new washers and C-clips.

[69chargeryeehaa]

There should be a small wave washer between the lever and the shoe.  You shouldn't have a problem finding new washers and C-clips.

i found a washer that was perfect and took all the play out.  The problem was a tough one, because what was happening was that the leaver was just catching the edge of the shoe, but it was intermittant, so i'd use the parking brake, and the leaver would stick on the shoe, then the adjusters would take up some slack, then the leaver would get unstuck on it's own, but now the shoes were adjusted a bit too tight, and this happened over and over until now.  so it would be ok for a bit, then happen again, but every time i took it apart i found nothing wrong, it was only when i engaged the parking brake with the drum off, and released it that i noticed the leaver hung up on the shoe, and that explained everything, it was one of those ureka moments, i was finally glad to find the problem as it was begining to really really pi$$ me off.