Rim Paint Feedback:

[Captain D]

Hi all,

Posting to gain some feedback on painting rims, if I may please. I have an appointment to get my rims painted at an automotive paint shop, but I've heard / read that a lot of folks simply choose to do them themselves. Heck, some actual paint shops have noted that rattle-cans are quite common and can have just as good results if the rims are well prepped. Anyhow, I'm certainly leaning towards the automotive shop doing them. But, just for the sake of curiosity - 'IF' I were to do them myself, just how durable is, say, the rim paint from VHT? For example from Auto-Zone, Advance Auto, Amazon, and so on:

https://www.amazon.com/VHT-SP183-Satin-Black-Wheel/dp/B000CPAV9I/ref=cm_cr_arp_d_product_top?ie=UTF8

Currently, my rims have been DE-greased, cleaned, any rough areas smoothed out, etc. Plus, they've also been treated with etching primer and smoothed out all ready for paint. While I'm waiting for a few odds / ends, here are the questions in the meantime:

1.) As previously noted, just how durable is the VHT wheel coating paint (followed up with a matte clear-coat, perhaps)?
2.) And, if I did go the automotive paint + clear-coat route, can this combo be easily removed on certain areas that we didn't want to get painted using paint thinner, just out of curiosity?  

Thank you for any and replies. The vehicle this project is for will be for my 69' Charger that I use primarily for car shows & parades and such (not my driver).
Best to you guys,
Aaron      

[HPP]

Excellent results can be achieved with rattle cans. The drawback to them is that the durability over time will suffer. This is where the catalyzed finished of traditional paint shop methods will allow them to look nicer for longer and hold up better to the varying heat cycles and environmental exposure. Additionally, unles syou specifically get an enamel finish in the can, most rattle cans are lacquer, which also is somewhat less durable.

There are catalyst rattle cans out there now days that may come close in durability to professional finishes. I have not tried any of these and they are a use them all or loose the paint proposition. Once the catalyst capsule is broken into the paint base, it must be used or it will harden in the can, so no touch ups later.

[JR]

If they are already cleaned, sanded, and prepared for paint, go all the way and use proper base/clear automotive paint.

Like HPP said, the durability over time is WAY superior to rattle cans. The finish is much deeper and richer in color as well.

The brake dust also breaks down the spray paint over time in my experience. I rattle canned the wheels on my 20 year old Toyota daily driver one year ago, and the finish is now pitted and rough. And almost impossible to clean because of it.

Use the good stuff for your Charger, you'll be glad you did.

[Captain D]

Hi gents,

Many thank you's for your replies - absolutely, I was leaning towards the automotive paint indeed anyhow but y'all confirmed my first choice of preference. After all the hype I had read on misc. Google searches, I thought that I would at least look into the rattle cans to say that I've pursued other routes just in case. I was looking into powder-coating, but the average cost was approx. $525 whereas a local shop can do it for about $125-$150 for all four rims (auto paint + clear-coat). So, this option just makes the more sense at all angles.

Thanks again for your time and insight!
Aaron