Oil Filter

[G-man]

Hello,

Anyone got any first hand experience with the PurePower oil filters?

They are a reusable sort, billet Alloy and claim to filter better than paper filters. Given they do cost about $200... having said that, the amount I am driving, that would pay off within 3 years.

I noticed Ray Barton selling the K&P Engineering (also alloy filter like PurePower) for the Hemi's so it got me curious...

They claim to provide better absolute micron filtering (22) than any paper type filter on the market (Royal purple, Fram, Mobil 1, K&N, Purolator etc) but all the posts of what I can find on the net regarding this are like 2009 where people claim its just a rock catcher and not a good filter...

So im hearing 2 sides to the story and in nearly 10 years I'm sure even the purepower filters are different to how they started...

If it filters just as good and therefor no long term harm will occur to engine (wear it out prematurely)... to me its worth getting for the cost considering how much driving I do.

Anyway, anyone got any actual experience with it?

Thanks

[alfaitalia]

Bearing in mind how cheap normal filters are and how much that is......filtering "as good as a paper one" would not cut it for me. I would want to see documented proof of a big improvement in filtration and a benefit for the engine long term before I laid out that sort of cash. Plus you have the hassle of cleaning it once in a while......cant see that much of an improvement over paper filter.....many have tried to improve on it.....but manufacturers of new cars still stick with paper.

[c00nhunterjoe]

A good top of the line oil filter from k and n or wix will be about 12 bucks. So in doing the math, you are averaging 16,000 miles a year on your charger? Stick with the standard filters and change it annually or 3k.

[green69rt]

More info.
http://www.minimopar.net/oilfilters/index.html

[G-man]

A good top of the line oil filter from k and n or wix will be about 12 bucks. So in doing the math, you are averaging 16,000 miles a year on your charger? Stick with the standard filters and change it annually or 3k.

No charger... sold a while ago

Its my daily driver. Im in Au, 600km is what 400 miles a week or so?

And here the K&N costs me $25, so 4x a year = $100. I can buy the reusable zort for 250 or so. Hence I said within 3 years paid in full.

That last article study is good but it says nothing about the stainless ones.

From everything I have been able to dig up... paper can let stuff 60+ microns through as its a multi pass test to get the lower numbers, as that website plainly shows.

The Stainless one says 22 absolute microns. Which means nothing bigger than 22 will ever get through and as it gets clogged up like paper it will filter down smaller and smaller microns as well like paper. Difference being considering its a mesh the oil can go through it while paper it in a way goes around it and the particles just get caught on th paper, so flow is also improved.

Not knowing anything technical as such... I know in Au if people claimed whst these guys do (F.A.A approved etc etc) and then it wasnt or didnt do what they claim on advertising they could be sued for false advertising. Dont know how strict US is about false advertising though so i asked if anyone has real world experience with them to confirm yes they do what the manufacturer claims or no they dont its false advertising and due to legal loopholes in country you can do that (which you cant hear really).

I wouldnt even have given it a 2nd look had ray barton not been selling them on the 30-40,000 engines... thats all that to me gave it credibility.

[alfaitalia]

Oil flows through the paper...not around it.

[Troy]

Oil flows through the paper...not around it.

Not technically. Well, not all the time. Most, if not all, filters have a bypass. When the revs come up and a LOT of oil is pushed to the filter, the pressure spikes if the flow rate is too low and the bypass opens. Effectively sending the dirty oil right back to the engine unfiltered - at the worst possible time! One of the supposed benefits of this filter is that the flow rate is high so, even with tight screens, the bypass doesn't need to open (or at least not often). Another benefit is that paper tends to deteriorate and/or get blown out while the stainless mesh stays put.

I really had never heard of these filters (I buy WIX in bulk at a discount so the price really seems out of line) so I have only done a quick Google search. It seems like the effort to clean them just adds to the cost - but the ease of analysis and peace of mind could be nice if you had something expensive that was your livelihood (say, a semi tractor). If I owned a race team and had some apprentice lackeys wandering around I'd give it a try!

Troy

[Lennard]

When you buy a 30+ thousand dollar engine from Indy, you'll get this filter on it:

https://m.summitracing.com/search/product-line/system-1-spin-on-oil-filters

[cdr]

I run a Jomar filter spin on, it has NO bypass .

[alfaitalia]

Oil flows through the paper...not around it.

Not technically. Well, not all the time. Most, if not all, filters have a bypass. When the revs come up and a LOT of oil is pushed to the filter, the pressure spikes if the flow rate is too low and the bypass opens. Effectively sending the dirty oil right back to the engine unfiltered - at the worst possible time! One of the supposed benefits of this filter is that the flow rate is high so, even with tight screens, the bypass doesn't need to open (or at least not often). Another benefit is that paper tends to deteriorate and/or get blown out while the stainless mesh stays put.

I really had never heard of these filters (I buy WIX in bulk at a discount so the price really seems out of line) so I have only done a quick Google search. It seems like the effort to clean them just adds to the cost - but the ease of analysis and peace of mind could be nice if you had something expensive that was your livelihood (say, a semi tractor). If I owned a race team and had some apprentice lackeys wandering around I'd give it a try!

Troy

Thats not how I understand it. The bypass is only used if the paper is so old or blocked that the paper causes a bad restriction or the oil is very cold/thick or the engine is redlining.....otherwise it goes through it....would kind of defeat the object of having a filter if it wasn't actually filtering !

EDIT;
Just found this on a oil info site;

The Bypass Valve

Under ideal conditions, the bypass valve will never open. When it opens, the oil by passes the filter and goes on through to the motor, obviously unfiltered. It is a safety valve. However, in real operation there are certain times it needs to open.

One example is when you start the motor when cold. The oil is thick and does not pass easily through the filtration medium, thus building up to a high pressure drop. So, the bypass valve opens to prevent oil-starvation of the motor. How long it stays open is dependent on how cold the oil is and how long it takes to get near operating temperature. When the pressure drop across the filtration medium drops below the bypass valve setting.

Another example can occur when the motor is fully warmed. At idle, the oil pressure is about 15 to 20 psi, and the pressure drop across the filter is about 1 or 2 psi. You take off towards the redline, and quickly build oil pressure. During that full-throttle acceleration the pressure drop across the filter will exceed the bypass setting, and send unfiltered oil to the motor, until the pressure across the filter has time to equalize. During a drag race, shifting through the gears, the bypass will open several times.

A third example, which you should never experience with frequent oil and filter changes, is when a filter becomes clogged. A spin-on filter can commonly hold 10 to 20 grams of trash before it becomes fully clogged. The bypass valve opening is the only way to keep the motor from becoming oil-starved if the filter becomes clogged.

According to Purolator, the Honda OEM filter bypass setting is 12 to 14 psi. WIX (NAPA Gold) builds their oil filters with a bypass setting of 8 to 11 psi, while AC Delco builds theirs to a setting of 11 to 17 psi. How much do these differences matter? I don't think anyone knows, even the engineers, and each has its own set of advantages and disadvantages.

If you do lots of racing, you're probably better off with a higher bypass setting.
If you do lots of *cold* starting, especially in the winter, or seldom change your filter, I think you're better off with a lower bypass setting. However, with few exceptions, bypass pressures for spin-on filters run in the 8 to 17 psi range, and any of them should work acceptably.

[alfaitalia]

I run a Jomar filter spin on, it has NO bypass .

From what ive read....and I'm happy to be proven wrong....but that is not a great idea. If you do you need a nice long slow warm up. If not you can cause oil starvation as the thick cold oil struggles to pass through the filter....or even pop a filter off completely if pressure gets high enough.

[John_Kunkel]

They are a reusable sort, billet Alloy and claim to filter better than paper filters.

I ain't buyin' it...I don't see a screen filter trapping anything below 20 microns.

[cdr]

I run a Jomar filter spin on, it has NO bypass .

From what ive read....and I'm happy to be proven wrong....but that is not a great idea. If you do you need a nice long slow warm up. If not you can cause oil starvation as the thick cold oil struggles to pass through the filter....or even pop a filter off completely if pressure gets high enough.

I dont run thick oil,,10-30 vr1 in the summer

[G-man]

k thanks.