Broken bolt stuck in my hood

[timmycharger]

I managed to snap off a bolt on the hood of my 68. I was using parts store bolts which was dumb but I didn't want to scratch up my painted ones. I have been test fitting the hood after having to make some repairs.

This bolt must be grade 8. I can't drill it out, I bought drill bits that said for hardened steel, figured they would work but nope.

Thinking about drilling a hole next to it and using a blind rivet/nutsert but not sure if that would be strong enough.

Anyone have this happen to them?

[dual fours]

If it's a grade 8 bolt, it should be marked on the head, and at one time grade 8's were a different color then softer bolts. Could you use a "center drill" bit just to start a hole, after center punching the bolt shank and get a hole centered, then increase the bit size for the use of an easy out?
I'm guessing it's a hood hinge side bolt going into the hood?
The "center drill" bits are stiffer and shorter then a regular drill bit, let's say all shaft and little cutting tip, less chance of running or snapping off the work piece and destroying other painted metal.
There are drill bits that cut counter clock wise (with the drill running in reverse),they have a built/cut in easy out head to grip the bolt shaft and turn it out. Best used at a very slow speed.
A Grade 8 bolt made in China only means it has been manufactured by a child in 8th. Grade.
Now-a-days even some drill bits are sh1t.

Hi hemi-hampton, I was guessing he did not have use of a welder or he'd had tried that first.

[hemi-hampton]

If you got a mig welder weld another bolt to broken end & remove. I do it all the time. LEON.

[timmycharger]

Yes, it was one of the bolts that hold the hinge on. Coming from the parts store, it is likely from China,  I will have to find the rest of the bolt on the floor of the shop, but whatever it is, it doesn't drill out like other bolts I had to battle with in the past.

Unfortunately it broke off just about flush and I did see if I had enough material to mig another bolt on there but there was basically just a small edge sticking up that was way too small. I then filed it down more so I had a flat area to strike a center punch. That is where I am at now.

What makes me nervous is why the bolt broke off in the first place, It didn't look like it was cross threaded, maybe the threads were in need of cleaning/chasing, who knows.

the way I drill out broken bolts usually is using a smaller diameter bit then work my way up until I am close to the threads and use an easy out very carefully. I cant even get a pilot hole drilled.

[timmycharger]

I did more searching on this, and saw something that I didn't see last night.

http://blog.gieselman.com/post/Broken-bolt-stud-or-screw-removal


I am going to give this method a go. Weld a washer, grind that, then weld a nut on top of it.

[70 sublime]

In the past on an old rusty hood I had that came with a Charger the bolts were both broken off long ago and really stuck
Maybe not what you want to do but I just cut a slit in the hood near the back and slide the plate right out of the hood so I could get at it
Then just fold the slit part back up into place after you fix the problem and put the plate back inside

[hemi-hampton]

I've cut slits into end of broken bolts before with a die grinder then used a big screwdriver in slit to unscrew, some times it works sometimes it don't. The Washer trick might work. LEON.

P.S I've also welded nuts to the end by welding into nut hole. If you get it red hot the heat will help loosen it. Then put a socket on nut & unthread it out.

[hemi-hampton]

The Welded nut worked good on these 2 broken bolts on this Rusty POS.  LEON.

[dual fours]

I've cut slits into end of broken bolts before with a die grinder then used a big screwdriver in slit to unscrew, some times it works sometimes it don't. The Washer trick might work. LEON.

P.S I've also welded nuts to the end by welding into nut hole. If you get it red hot the heat will help loosen it. Then put a socket on nut & unthread it out.

Don't forget the candle wax trick on the bolt after the welding is done and the nut is cooled down some, it works for stuck/rusty lug nuts, it can't hurt here.

[timmycharger]

I thought about cutting a slit and replacing the bar inside but I need to get this done quickly as the painter is taking it in 2 weeks.

Leon, I checked it out today and I am going to weld the nut right to the bolt without the washer. I have less room than i thought around it.  Thanks for the info.

[timmycharger]

I've cut slits into end of broken bolts before with a die grinder then used a big screwdriver in slit to unscrew, some times it works sometimes it don't. The Washer trick might work. LEON.

P.S I've also welded nuts to the end by welding into nut hole. If you get it red hot the heat will help loosen it. Then put a socket on nut & unthread it out.

Don't forget the candle wax trick on the bolt after the welding is done and the nut is cooled down some, it works for stuck/rusty lug nuts, it can't hurt here.

Interesting. Didn't know about that one. Thanks

[PlainfieldCharger]

  Great info on this. Broken bolts...no problem. Thanks for posting!

[John Milner]

I have also used the candle wax trick.  It worked for me.  I would probably try to weld a nut on the head of the broken off bolt.  If it's flush you should still be able to weld the nut to the busted bolt.  It might take a few attempts but it will come out.   

[DAY CLONA]

High grade fasteners that need to be drilled out are best done with a carbide drill bit, expensive and fragile, drill slowly, light pressure, carbide will even drill through hardened inserts like EZ outs or steel drill bits that have broken off while attempting to extract broken/rusted/crystallized bolts/studs

[timmycharger]

Thanks guys, my first plan is to try to weld the nut to what is left on the bolt, what makes me nervous is I think the bolt I used may be stainless from the look of it but I have no way to tell until when I mess with it on Sunday and try to weld on it.  If I cant get the nut to stick to it then I will have to try to drill it out with the carbide bit as described. 

 

[DAY CLONA]

Thanks guys, my first plan is to try to weld the nut to what is left on the bolt, what makes me nervous is I think the bolt I used may be stainless from the look of it but I have no way to tell until when I mess with it on Sunday and try to weld on it.  If I cant get the nut to stick to it then I will have to try to drill it out with the carbide bit as described. 

 

If it's stainless, your best welding a stainless nut with stainless wire (your using MIG I'll assume) Stainless doesn't take to std steel MIG wire or being alloyed to a steel nut, your best just using the carbide drills, drilling as slow as possible, and light pressure, carbide is as strong as diamond, but fragile as glass, you break off a carbide drill inside of the stud...then just call it a day, it's fubar'd

[timmycharger]

I ended up drilling it out with a carbide bit. Took me an hr in slo mo but it worked.  I boogered the threads slightly but ran a tap down and it feels nice with the factory bolt. 

Plan a didnt work. It must have been stainless, it wouldnt hold.I dont have stainless wire and trying it without just made a mess

[DAY CLONA]

Good to hear!

I always run a tap thru all holes as much as possible after sandblasting/stripping a vehicle, better safe than sorry, sometimes a bolt/screw starts nice, then locks up, shears off, shit happens, getting it out without messing shit up is usually the problem, happens to all of us

Mike